Jens could you send me details on the specific parts you used? I also have a Ruster Henhouse for my bike and I’m not a fan of the new bikes with their special boxes because they can’t be dismantled for travel. I hated paying bike fees!

Partial hijack.

If a bike model in a given year is sold in both Di2 and mechanical builds, is it safe to assume that converting from mechanical to Di2 should be 'stupid simple'?

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To breathe, to feel, to know I'm alive.

There is no guarantee that the build is conversion friendly...Di2 wiring can be difficult and if there aren't cable guides in place you may have a bit of fishing to do.

In a factory on a bare frame, they may have custom harnesses or other tools to aid in a rapid build, but once you have all the components installed it could be tougher. If you are comfortable pulling your crank & BB, then you will most likely have enough room to work. (FYI I'm no expert on Di2, I went with eTap and I'm very happy.)

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" I take my gear out of my car and put my bike together. Tourists and locals are watching from sidewalk cafes. Non-racers. The emptiness of of their lives shocks me. "
(opening lines from Tim Krabbe's The Rider , 1978

I had assumed I'd use the existing cabling as guides, as per this video (fast forward to ~3 minutes).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aDase_vpBE

But I did wonder if there might be some other trickery involved.

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To breathe, to feel, to know I'm alive.

I'm not quite sure what you mean. My P3 has:

* Etap blip-box
* Etap clics (on aero bar-ends)
* Etap rear derailleur.
* 1X Campy track crankset with road chainring
* Dura-ace chain with SRAM link

To pack it up, I:

1) take off chain
2) remove RD
3) remove blipbox
4) remove pedals
5) disconnect fork.
6) remove seat.
7) stuff it into the box. I don't bother to wrap it in foam or anything. It's a $450 frame. The only thing of value is the Campy 150mm track crank which is irreplaceable (also indestructible).

This takes 5-10 minutes.

I put the RD, blipbox, and pedals in my carry-on (that's 2/3 of the value of my bike).

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My latest book: "Out of the Melting Pot, Into the Fire" is on sale on Amazon and at other online and local booksellers

Are there any modern bikes with long and low geo like the p3?

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Bumping this thread. Has anyone done a 2x Etap on an old P3. It’s listed as incompatible due to the short chainstay length.

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Let food be thy medicine...

I did - works great but needed new rear cassette (would have anyway since I went from Campy to Etap).

Only issue is the placement of wires and box upfront below the stem. Doesn't look as tidy as we all like it to look and I worry the amount of fluid that hits it from the bta is excessive.

What year is your P3. What kind And size crankset are you running.

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Let food be thy medicine...

2005. fSA. 170.
I did add a sram rd.

Hi could you give me a list of parts you use in your build. I want to do this mod to my 2012 P2

Thanks

Buy a new bike obviously. You can't feel good about yourself unless you spend10k-14k on a new bike.

I think you might have the wrong person. I don't have electronic, but if I did it would be Archer D1x. They had a labor day sale and the system would have been ~$300.

https://forum.slowtwitch.com/...ring=archer#p7018999

Bumping this thread for some help,
I have browsed through many of the 1x build threads and perhaps I missed the answer in one of them. But I am looking for insight on chain line for 1x with etap.
2013 p3c frame

Plan on running: 110bcd 1x SRAM x-sync chain ring 50t on promax 150mm square taper cranks and a SRAM etap rear derailure with 11-28 cassette.

My question is about the bottom bracket. Obviously square taper, but does length of the square taper matter? How long should it be or does it need to be? From what I have read the Q factor is influenced as well as chain line by the length of square taper. Or am I way off? I was thinking of using a Shimano UN-55 68x __.

If you have any other guidance or suggestions I am all ears.