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Yes... the tire question again
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Hey All,

I posted a few months ago about converting my wheels over to latex tubes and how great they worked etc etc. I had the worst luck during a 70.3 today with my wheels ever and I think I am ready to make a change.

To start off - my latex tube exploded before I got out of the swim and blew the tire bead off the rim. I had 2-3 races on these (Olympics) and this was my first actual length with the tubes. I then have a valve stem unseat on another tube and then a wheel shifting mechanical after the support guy got me a butyl. Needless to say the latex issues combined with the absolutely difficult tire installation and removal on Enve rims I don’t think I want to consider the Latex tubes again.

Here is what I have/had now;

Conti GP4000 II - 25 wide front and rear
Latex tubes
Enve 7.8

What do you guys think is the most reasonable or all around tire. I have the rims to do whatever, some ideas I had;

GP4000 and Butyl
Tubeless tires (schwalbe pro, Galactik maybe?)
Michelin power competition and butyl
Gp4000 RS maybe and butyl?

I am up for any recommendation - the gp4000II that I have have right at 250miles on them. I want a tire set that last 2-3 seasons if possible (250-350miles or more) maybe the most aero is fastest, maybe rolling?

What’s your guys opinion?

I also want to add that after 3 tube changes I wasted 35mins of time on the bike....
Last edited by: teddygram: Jul 29, 18 17:13
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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Literally today I got the first cut on my Hutchinson Fusion5 11Storms. It was a slice of maybe 3/16ths of an inch. It failed to seal with OrangeSeal. Even with spinning it. Even with putting it at the bottom. Even with holding my thumb over it. Even with extra air. I got filthy, threw my tube in it, and here endeth my attempts at tubeless. I'm just not going to try all the other options to see if one of them will actually seal when I need it to.

The grass isn't always greener; I've had much more luck with swapping tubes. I've never had ENVEs though.

The point is, ladies and gentleman, that speed, for lack of a better word, is good. Speed is right, Speed works. Speed clarifies, cuts through, and captures the essence of the evolutionary spirit.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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Your real problem is you don’t know how to change and install a tube properly. Sorry man, maybe I’m wrong and there is something in rim or wheel that’s popping tubes. Otherwise watch the flo video on how to install tubes. Not trying to be a jackass, I was once like you and I haven’t had a pop in 7 years...knocks wood. Watch the video and thank Flo :)

PS no tire levers for an install, ever!
Last edited by: EnderWiggan: Jul 29, 18 17:20
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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I think you're giving up on latex way too quick. If your tube exploded and blew the tire off the rim, it's 99% certain you installed the tube incorrectly. You got to flip all around the tire to make sure the tube is not leaking out under the bead:

http://leegoocrap.blogspot.com/...-guide-to-latex.html


A latex tube that is incorrectly installed can actually go for days or even weeks before it blows. The Enve wheels do suck for tire installation. Just make sure that both beads of the tire are as close to the middle trough of the rim as possible as you complete the installation. That will make a huge difference.

My latest book: "Out of the Melting Pot, Into the Fire" is on sale on Amazon and at other online and local booksellers
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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User error.

I wager that the failure holes are near the stem.

Here’s what happened... your tires were totally deflated after your last use. When you reinflated, you pushed the in the steam while mounting the chuck and did not soundly seat the tube against the rim at the stem. Pop.
Last edited by: exxxviii: Jul 29, 18 17:39
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [jens] [ In reply to ]
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Guys - the tube was installed right, end of story. The wheels had races and rides on them prior with no issues.

What happened is the wheels sat over a month without being used and completely deflated. The tires unhooked the bead when that happened and I didnt even think about it when I just went and pumped it up. Yes I pre rode them but it just didn’t have the issue until race day. I realized this after sitting like a Putz on the side of the road as I waited for the tech.

The second tube flat out didn’t have the valve stem extender tightened down enough and after vibration it rattled loose causing that tube to go flat.

I am not going to argue on tube installation - I am going to argue I’m not riding these wheels all the time and I’m not keeping maintnence with them up.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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teddygram wrote:
Guys - the tube was installed right, end of story. The wheels had races and rides on them prior with no issues.
Sorry but they were installed wrong. Just because they lasted through a couple rides doesn't mean they weren't installed wrong. It can take a while for the bead to work its way off. It's possible you installed them correctly at first, and then in moving the bike they got screwed up, but that's actually not very likely. Most likely they were installed in such a way that the tube was sticking under the bead somewhere, and then at first the bead was on well enough everywhere else that it stuck on anyway, for a while. Eventually, with time and after being deflated and reinflated, it blew off. You don't have to believe us, but a bunch of us ride latex every day and have for many years. Jens and I also test tires so we've installed many many different brands/models of tires on many different rims, with latex tubes. We've seen it all. You've only just started.

The good news is it's actually pretty easy to learn to do it right every time. You just have to take some care. If you want to go back to butyl that's fine. Butyl is harder to screw up, and will last longer when installed wrong, and sometimes won't explode even if the bead pops off (bulging out instead).
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [lanierb] [ In reply to ]
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Right, as I said the bead unhooked and on these rims when this happens it pops the bead pretty much center. The tube got between the tire and rim when I aired them up for the race.

With a little bit of luck and sore fingers with a tire lever you can get the tires on the rim - it’s not fun at all. My normal aluminum training rims and tire I could install bare handed if needed.

So back to the questions - any other ideas or is it you’re an idiot and cant install a tube and need to HTFU?
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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As a FYI, if you're considering tubeless you should know it's not "maintenance free". You need to regularly check to make sure you have enough liquid sealant. I'm with pretty much everyone else in this thread: you probably didn't install them correctly... or you didn't inflate the one correctly.... and how much pressure are you running to blow a bead off the rim while it's sitting in transition??!!

I've always heard Enve's are a pita to mount/remove tires. Personally I have HEDs, Zipps, and now Mavic's in my stable. I'd rank them HED, Mavic, Zipp in the order of most difficult to easiest to mount/remove tires.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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Not HTFU, but tubeless will not be simpler than latex tubes. I'd advise you to get more practice at installing latex tubes and checking the installation. Over and over. This is a good reminder I should check the tubes in mine and my wife's race wheels before Boulder.

The point is, ladies and gentleman, that speed, for lack of a better word, is good. Speed is right, Speed works. Speed clarifies, cuts through, and captures the essence of the evolutionary spirit.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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Tubeless. Spesh S-Works Turbo Road or the Schwalbe Pro Ones.

For all these horror stories about people getting cuts that won't seal, you're not reading about the countless latex tube disasters like yours, pinch flats, tiny punctures and tiny cuts that are being repaired because the sealant does what it is supposed to do. Add in the ability to run lower pressures on rough roads, and it's a great solution.

And if it goes to hell, slap a tube, bacon strip, or boot in it and ride on.

***
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [Toby] [ In reply to ]
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I always run 90-100psi depending on the roads (try to pre-ride). I have a few tubeless MTB and they are easy - just shake them around make sure it has fluid and if not add some. They (although a lot lower pressure) hold air for a long time. I wasn’t sure if the road version was much different.

I left the bike in T1 like normal and then the next morning I went to pump them up. They were at 45-50psi and I pumped them to 100psi

Yes - these enve’s suck putting tires on, the poor on site tech asked me wtf as he messed with it for a while.

I’m not 100% giving up on Latex - but more or less seeing if there was a better option.
Last edited by: teddygram: Jul 29, 18 18:19
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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If it were me I would contact the manufacturer if Enve 7.8 and ask them what tires to use
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [RBR] [ In reply to ]
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RBR wrote:
If it were me I would contact the manufacturer if Enve 7.8 and ask them what tires to use

25 conti 4000II with “tube”
Or
Schwalbe Pro One Tubless

That was the recommendation straight from Enve, that was 2 seasons ago though and a lot has changed. I could call them again!
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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teddygram wrote:
RBR wrote:
If it were me I would contact the manufacturer if Enve 7.8 and ask them what tires to use


25 conti 4000II with “tube”
Or
Schwalbe Pro One Tubless
Both of these are great choices.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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teddygram wrote:
Yes - these enve’s suck putting tires on, the poor on site tech asked me wtf as he messed with it for a while.
I’m not 100% giving up on Latex - but more or less seeing if there was a better option.

Tubeless tires will probably be harder to mount as they have tighter carbon beads.

I've installed over 100 latex tube in the last 10 years and never got one caught under the bead. I don't even check anymore. Failures at the valve area are also easy to prevent. I can tell you how to do it if you want to know.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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I forgot to mention: I've added a step in my tire installation recently: I initially inflate to 125psi and then back down to the pressure I actually want. Before tubeless tires and rims, this wasn't necessary. But now it's possible for part of the bead to "duck under," which leaves you with a flat spot. This is a problem even if you are using tubes. A few times now, I haven't gotten the final "pop" from the bead shifting until 120 psi. The added benefit to going to 125 psi is that if you've botched the installation, you'll probably find out right away.

My latest book: "Out of the Melting Pot, Into the Fire" is on sale on Amazon and at other online and local booksellers
Last edited by: jens: Jul 29, 18 20:46
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [exxxviii] [ In reply to ]
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exxxviii wrote:
User error.

I wager that the failure holes are near the stem.

Here’s what happened... your tires were totally deflated after your last use. When you reinflated, you pushed the in the steam while mounting the chuck and did not soundly seat the tube against the rim at the stem. Pop.

Whelp, this must have been my problem in the past. It always is by the valve stem. Glad to know what it is!

Aaron Bales
Lansing Triathlon Team
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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After six years of no flats with latex tubes and conti 4000s, I got three in a matter of four weeks with my Enve 8.9s and Conti TTs. Long story short, my LBS eventually put in new rim tape (double wrap) and problem solved. Now running HED disc plus/ 4 combo this year with the same wrap.....no problems yet.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [rruff] [ In reply to ]
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rruff wrote:

Tubeless tires will probably be harder to mount as they have tighter carbon beads.

True.

But they seem to be getting easier. Even within the same brand/model. I tried some of the new Goodyear Eagles, and they're stupid easy (though not a performance tire). I got a new pair of Corsa Speed tires on a Jet+ rim without tools (though with a good amount of effort), which I was never able to do before, which makes me think they relaxed things a little bit.

And of course a benefit of tubeless is you can manhandle them over the rim almost worry free.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [trail] [ In reply to ]
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..... tubulars, tried and true. :)
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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I will add this. I am also a believer that tubeless is much more difficult, in a road tire (assuming Vittoria corsa speed), than latex. I am more likely to recommend latex before tubeless. It isn't 100% positive that there isn't some sort of rim defect affecting the rims that caused the issue, although with the tubeless hooks I think that is much less likely. But I did a video many moons ago of tires repeatedly blowing off rims in hot sun at about 125 psi on old rims when they first when wider with the original Zipp FC. Unfortunately I lost the data in a hard drive failure, thanks to a bug in an earlier Intel SSD controller, still angry about it. However, I would suspect this isn't the case, but fwiw my Enve rims were not super clean on the rim bead and I actually filed down some carbon to make it smooth. I could see a latex tube being able to pinch out of it if the jump in carbon was drastic enough.

Regardless, to answer your questions. I would give latex another try. Invest in some Conti GPTT for a faster tire, and invest in a tire bead jack (not lever) if you are having trouble getting the tires on.


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Re: Yes... the tire question again [Thomas Gerlach] [ In reply to ]
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Just sayin but it was really hot in Whistler today
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [Animalmom2] [ In reply to ]
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It's never going to get hot enough for the pressure to increase enough to blow a tire off the rim
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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If you have read the other threads here about tires then your should know to stick with the latex. Tires will be all about risk reward: Conti SS and Conti TT are my go to race tires. Conti 4GP you will give up a few watts but maybe it gives you more piece of mind. I do run selent in my latex as well.

2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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Tubulars

29 years and counting
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [jens] [ In reply to ]
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jens wrote:

I forgot to mention: I've added a step in my tire installation recently: I initially inflate to 125psi and then back down to the pressure I actually want. Before tubeless tires and rims, this wasn't necessary. But now it's possible for part of the bead to "duck under," which leaves you with a flat spot. This is a problem even if you are using tubes. A few times now, I haven't gotten the final "pop" from the bead shifting until 120 psi. The added benefit to going to 125 psi is that if you've botched the installation, you'll probably find out right away.

Absolutely agree!

This is how I did it when I installed them a few months ago waiting to hear the bead lock on. These rims are super loud when it finally does. I hang the wheels when not in use and as I believe when they deflated and sat in my garage and heat cycled the bead unhooked and I never bothered checking or thought about it.

The tube was tore about 2-3” in length along the side of the tube at about the 3-o’clock position from the valve stem.

The first time I used latex tubes they were getting under the rim tape and popping in the holes - I did a few layers of tubeless rim tape and that stopped that from happening.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [Jorgan] [ In reply to ]
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Jorgan wrote:
Tubulars

Right - raced on tubulars for over 10 years and never had an issue haha. I bought these 7.8’s as I needed something 11-speed and wanted to try the new stuff out. I gave the wheels to my wife who is not going to give them back haha.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [Thomas Gerlach] [ In reply to ]
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Thomas Gerlach wrote:
Enve rims were not super clean on the rim bead and I actually filed down some carbon to make it smooth. I could see a latex tube being able to pinch out of it if the jump in carbon was drastic enough.

Thomas,

Actually - I noticed the same thing I n the rim bead. The rim had some sharp burrs and had some uneveness. I didn’t think anything about it or try filing on it as I figured the bead would soak it up or cover the burr etc.

I did not at that point want to file on wheels of that value but I might now. I’m not saying that is or was my issue but it’s interesting to hear that from another Enve owner.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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teddygram wrote:
Jorgan wrote:
Tubulars


Right - raced on tubulars for over 10 years and never had an issue haha. I bought these 7.8’s as I needed something 11-speed and wanted to try the new stuff out. I gave the wheels to my wife who is not going to give them back haha.

I do like my tubulars but I dont like having to carry around a full spare one with me just in case.Yet to find an slowtwitch approved aero way of doing it. Hopefully the sealant will prevent any disasters.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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I'd recommend some 800 grit sandpaper instead of a file, but its not a bad idea overall
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [davidwilcock] [ In reply to ]
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davidwilcock wrote:
I do like my tubulars but I dont like having to carry around a full spare one with me just in case.Yet to find an slowtwitch approved aero way of doing it. Hopefully the sealant will prevent any disasters.

I can get a Tufo S3 Lite in a Gen 1 SC draft box, plus 2 cartridges & inflator. Tufo do smaller/lighter tubs, but they tend to be a b1tch to get on, as the Elite series seem to require a load of pre-stretching & also have no kevlar strip. The S3 Lite is "<215g".

29 years and counting
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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i'm with you, latex tubes are fine and maybe have there advantages, but they drive you crazy with worry -- are they going to blow? leak? sealer work? delicate to mount, higher cost, etc. etc. etc. It's just not worth the worry for 30 seconds of speed. Use something more bomb proof and sleep better the night before the race. ...
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [coyote pelon] [ In reply to ]
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coyote pelon wrote:
i'm with you, latex tubes are fine and maybe have there advantages, but they drive you crazy with worry -- are they going to blow? leak? sealer work? delicate to mount, higher cost, etc. etc. etc. It's just not worth the worry for 30 seconds of speed. Use something more bomb proof and sleep better the night before the race. ...

Ironically, I've used latex tubes for everyday purposes for so long (without issue), it's actually running butyl tubes that causes me anxiety due to them being more likely to "snake bite" if accidentally hitting an impact edge.

In fact, on the very last set of wheels I put a butyl tube in (a commuter wheelset I don't want to bother pumping every day), I did exactly that on an edge I ride over nearly every day. With wheels with latex tubes in the tires, no problems. First time over with the butyls: snake bite.

Compare that to my road bike wheelset that runs latex tubes. Last weekend I hit a pothole with the rear wheel on a descent hard enough to dent the bead on one side of the rim. No pinch flat though...

http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [Tom A.] [ In reply to ]
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I dunno. The only two snake bites I've had in 24 years happened in the last 12 months on latex vice the previous 23 on butyl.

That said, I don't fault the latex---both were absolutely brutal. As far as I know, butyl tubes would have done the same. I'm not going to retest and damage ANOTHER wheel.

The pothole I hit yesterday folded the wheel-bead over at a 30d angle, and deformed the entire rim slightly. The tube was snake bit on both sides with 1/4" slits. I know this pothole well....I thought I was already past it. When I saw it, I veered enough to miss with the front wheel, but the rear just dug in.

Last year I ran over a 1/2" automotive camber adjustment bolt. It was the same color as the asphalt. I could barely make it out walking back to see what I'd hit. Ran clean over the thing at 28mph. Again, it just destroyed the latex tube (and the tire). So, I don't know that butyl would have faired differently.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [Thomas Gerlach] [ In reply to ]
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Thomas Gerlach wrote:
Regardless, to answer your questions. I would give latex another try. Invest in some Conti GPTT for a faster tire, and invest in a tire bead jack (not lever) if you are having trouble getting the tires on.

I love that tire bead jack. I wish they made one that could be broken down with a removable handle to have out on the road.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [Tom A.] [ In reply to ]
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I've used latex tubes for everyday purposes for so long (without issue)

Same.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [GreenPlease] [ In reply to ]
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GreenPlease wrote:
You need to regularly check to make sure you have enough liquid sealant.

Can you advise the best way to do this? Thanks!
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [Tom A.] [ In reply to ]
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Tom I am with you, I ran my old latex in my everyday wheels. Couple weeks ago got 3 little pieces of metal wire going straight through the tire into the tube, no flat, pulled them out when I got home put that wheel on trainer bike, for last 2 weeks its still not gone flat. Butyl would have been a tube change for sure.

2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [davidwilcock] [ In reply to ]
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Have you read Thomas Gerlach's article on the Tufo track tire?
http://www.thomasgerlach.com/...t-tubular-spare.html
It is compact and light. I use this along with the Specialized Road Bandit which holds the tire and Co2 under the saddle. Pretty slick setup.
https://www.specialized.com/...LNIni5hoC6-UQAvD_BwE

edit: someone already posted this option...
Last edited by: beatle: Jul 31, 18 4:34
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [beatle] [ In reply to ]
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I did actually take the advice there. It's the smallest tyre I've ever had. I'll take a look at that specialized thing if I can see one in the flesh. Thanks
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [RonanIRL] [ In reply to ]
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RonanIRL wrote:
GreenPlease wrote:
You need to regularly check to make sure you have enough liquid sealant.


Can you advise the best way to do this? Thanks!

With the bike or wheel in a stand (off the ground) and the valve at the bottom, let out all the air and remove the valve core. Insert a thin rod of some type through the valve stem and use it as a "dip stick" like for the oil in a car engine ;-) Some of the Orange Seal packages come with a plastic "dip stick" just for this purpose...

http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [jens] [ In reply to ]
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jens wrote:

I forgot to mention: I've added a step in my tire installation recently: I initially inflate to 125psi and then back down to the pressure I actually want. Before tubeless tires and rims, this wasn't necessary.
Me too. And I actually add the soapy water treatment too, same as if I were installing tubeless. It helps the bead snap in place easier. TLR is a PITA.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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Just an update on this I buzzed Enve for the heck of it and talked some on the subject (didn't mention my issues over the weekend) and they recommended the Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless tires (25 size) for the 7.8's period (stated it tested best aerodynamically???) and I mentioned to him that I was running the Conti 4000II with Latex tubes and he stopped me and stated that Enve does not recommend or condone Latex tubes with there wheels....

Just a FYI - I am sure they are covering there butts or whatever....

So back to the conversation - how are the Turbo Cottons? They hold up well enough, not looking for a last resort setup just looking or considering something that makes the most sense for 140.6 races...... I will finish mid to high 5hrs on the bike so its not the end of the world/all chips in kind of deal.
Last edited by: teddygram: Jul 31, 18 12:22
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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Schwalbe Pro One's are great tires - very good combination of low CRR and pretty good puncture protection. If they say that's best aerodynamically, I'd just go with that.

Personally I'd stuff a latex tube in them. They mount up very tight, which means that they're high degree of difficulty in the actual mounting process -- hard to get on the rim without losing some skin and/or damaging the tube. However, once you do get them on you're pretty unlikely to have the tube caught under the bead because there's no space. Also, once the bead is properly set -- see Jens and my posts above for how to do that as it might take some skill -- it will be on there so well that it most likely won't budge even if you deflate the tire.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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I’d try the new Hutchinson “Galactik” tubeless ready tires in 25mm.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [gphin305] [ In reply to ]
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I'm adding 'check rim tape' when I change a tube.

I had two flats during my last race (laytex initially, butyl spare) ... I had checked the tire for debris after the first one. After the 2nd one, I suspected something on the rim side.

Sure enough, the rim tape was either installed incorrectly or shifted during riding such that the spoke holes were partially exposed.

I'm using the elastic rim tape that fits tightly around the rim ... wondering if I should start using tape with adhesive (e.g., gorilla tape).

Either way ... I'll be checking rim tape each time I change a tube.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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If you got Tubeless you may want to check out the new Zipp tires. I replaced one of my tires the other day with the new Zipp 25mm Tubeless race tire, and it was actually installable by hand. No tools needed, and zipp specifically states they do not want you to use tools either.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [Toby] [ In reply to ]
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Toby wrote:
Literally today I got the first cut on my Hutchinson Fusion5 11Storms. It was a slice of maybe 3/16ths of an inch. It failed to seal with OrangeSeal. Even with spinning it. Even with putting it at the bottom. Even with holding my thumb over it. Even with extra air. I got filthy, threw my tube in it, and here endeth my attempts at tubeless. I'm just not going to try all the other options to see if one of them will actually seal when I need it to.

The grass isn't always greener; I've had much more luck with swapping tubes. I've never had ENVEs though.

I would have suggested you just put a plug in it (Dynaplug or Sahmurai Sword etc) and co2 and away you go. Saves taking the wheel and tyre off to put in a tube. 2 minutes of work if that.
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Re: Yes... the tire question again [Jmercer] [ In reply to ]
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Jmercer wrote:
Either way ... I'll be checking rim tape each time I change a tube.

Just buy a roll of Stan's Tubeless tape and wrap it twice. Works great for clinchers.
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