The best bang for your buck pm IMO is a powertub hub. But that presents issues if you have multiple wheelsets.

To narrow it down, you need to decide what type of pm do you want/prefer or what is going to work best for you personally. Do you have multiple bikes? Do you want the pm on more than 1 bike? How mechanically inclined are you and are you willing to swap the pm between bikes?

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blog

https://www.dcrainmaker.com/...de-2017-edition.html

PowerTap Hub is often referred to as a very good lower priced alternative.

Do you plan on using it with more than one bike? If so a pedal-based power meter would be a wise choice. I just got the Favero Assioma Duo and am loving it. They, along with Garmin and PowerTap make a single sided version in the $500-$600 range that could be ideal for you.

Google DC Rainmaker 2017 power meter guide and you'll find the most comprehensive info set on power meters.

I'm not super mechanically inclined and I have a "dumb trainer" that I swap out a trainer wheel when riding. I'd like to see power numbers when I'm on the trainer, so not sure the hub mounted one would be the best. Though, I like the simplicity.

Check out the Powertap C1 chainrings at $350+tax and shipping or the Power2Max NGEco starting at $490+shipping. I tried the C1 first, but it was incompatible with my bike frame and settled for the NGEco. Works great, error of 2% and 2 years warranty.

I used to have a dumb trainer as well and went for a wheel with PowerTap hub to output power (and use it in Zwift). Works perfectly well. I do not like to ride it outdoors as the wheel is heavy and slow. But ideal for indoors. Got a good deal on a used wheel with an old hub, but never had an issue with that setup...

"Bang for Buck" isn't really a thing with power meters... they all do essentially the same thing, which is to tell you how many Watts you're putting out at any given moment. The extra metrics that some of them generate aren't generally considered that useful or actionable.

The best power meter is the one that you can use in the most possible situations that you ride your bike in and/or doesn't compromise your existing setup.

A few options...but honestly just read DC's review and start there to see what fits your needs budget. a few of the cheapest out there from free - $260. I am not claiming any of these are good just that they are the cheapest out there.

vPower app in garmin IQ store - free. Its reliable (consistent) and matches zwift/TR virtual power in my tests. Works on garmin watches where you can change the data field (ie 935, fenix)

Powertap powercal - $30 for the bluetooth version; $100 for the ant+ version. - https://www.dcrainmaker.com/...in-depth-review.html

Watteam Powerbeat - $259 - https://www.dcrainmaker.com/...in-depth-review.html

Did you say free power meters? I'm confused as typically "nothing is free" is it some type of app that gets you an approx? I'm just highly interested in any free equipment.

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I still lapped everyone on the couch!

Its a free app in the garmin IQ store. Its based on a few metrics like speed, cadence, etc. https://apps.garmin.com/...b1-b80b-6b080940ebb7

I have the Watteam Powerbeat and it works great. It's super easy to install and has been very accurate and reliable over the 5 months I have been using it. Great value.

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http://dontletitdefeatyou.blogspot.com

Freshly serviced second hand SRM.

The PT G3 hub weighs less than a Shimano 105 or Ultegra hub, and doesn't need a separate cadence or speed sensor. Also, at the moment, you can get a G3 hub built into a DT Swiss hub for $500. Currently, a Stages 105 (left) crank costs $530 (and you'd need a speed sensor if you were going to use it indoors on a trainer).

Every time someone asks about a PM and is not concerned about accuracy, God kills a kitten. Please...think of the kittens!!!

Why would you need a Speed sensor for indoors? You already have a PM that transmits power data to whatever app you are using.

Because power and speed are different. I have not used any training apps, but if you want to know you speed compared to power you would need the speed sensor, or if you just want to know how far you rode, because that is how distance is figured out.

speed on a trainer is an irrelavant metric. Dumb trainers have varied power curves. On mine, 1h at 200W will yield 8miles tops. On a smart trainer is even less relevant. Since the trainer adjust the resistance of the trainer you could be on a 34x28 cambination with the trainer given lots of resistance and the wheel speed super low. On the contrary you could go 53x11 and the trainer would give very little resistance. Wheel speed would be high. So same effort 2 different total speeds/distance.

to each their own, but outdoors and indoors speeds/distance are not comparable

Certain head units are triggered either by heart rate or speed. They're designed that way so you can record a ride if you don't have a power meter. If you don't use a heart rate belt those head units won't wake up to receive the power signal unless you have a speed sensor.

if you have two bikes (road and tri) have a PowerTap hub built into a decent well and train/race on that 100% of the time. If you have one bike then send your non-drive side crank arm to 4iiii and have them install a power meter on to that for $399 and you're golden.

Ian

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Ian Murray
http://www.TriathlonTrainingSeries.com
I like the pursuit of mastery
Twitter - @TriCoachIan

+1 for considering a pedal-based power meter. I've been very happy with my PowerTap P1s, though the latest Garmin Vectors look nice too. Like the OP, I also have a dumb trainer, so it's important to have an on bike power meter. Good bang for my buck since it's trivial to switch out so all of my bikes have power. It takes about three minutes and one wrench to switch (very easy even if you're not mechanically inclined). And it doesn't matter what wheelset I'm riding. Also nice to have the same power meter across all bikes so the results are more consistent from bike to bike (at least that's my understanding).

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tricalculator.com

Used from the classifieds. Powertap for warranty.

Used SRM or Powertap.

Do you have a computer that can read power?

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Used Stages Shimano 105 2nd gen left only. Seen going for as low as $180. If you're not racing IM's and have Shimano hollowtech cranks - a value hard to beat.

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Next races on the schedule: none at the moment

Why does it matter if he's racing IMs for the 105?

I mean, there are loads of arguments against Stages in the forum, but...

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If you have an imbalance in your stroke, your TSS will be either a bit low or a bit high. If you are trying to go for the highest TSS you can pull off without crippling your run, this could matter.

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Next races on the schedule: none at the moment

https://en.wikipedia.org/..._Uses_for_a_Dead_Cat

Definitely going to add the Vpower from Garmin store... Which one do you use, the one from Travis.vitek or Shane_Coetser?

I'm considering pulling the trigger this weekend on the PowerTap C1s. I haven't seen it mentioned much in this thread. Is there a reason for this?

I love my stages. easy to transfer from my road bike (indoor on trainer) to my race (TT) bike. There are many opinions on the Stages product but I for one have had thousands upon thousands of miles without issue and highly recommend. Its been by far, one of the best training and racing investments i've made.

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________________________________________________________
Taylor Rogers

2024: IM Hamburg

Got refurbished powertap p1 last year for $540, when it was $1000 for the new one, it might be even cheaper now since they have reduced price to $750 new. I love them, very easy to swap pedals between my TT and road bike. Check powertap website, they often have good deals on refubrushed.

Answer all of the questions and I'll provide you with an answer.


do you want to have it on 1 bike or multiple?

do you want the ability to have a training wheel set and race wheels?

do you ride the same pedals on all bikes?

What type of bike(s) is this going on?

What is your goal?

Do want power inside and outside?

How much do you want to spend?

Not sure if you're responding to me, but just one bike.

Answer all of the questions and I'll provide you with an answer.


do you want to have it on 1 bike or multiple?

do you want the ability to have a training wheel set and race wheels?

do you ride the same pedals on all bikes?

What type of bike(s) is this going on?

What is your goal?

How much do you want to spend?

Sorry, didn't see your first post on my phone!

1 bike, Felt IA 14

Going to ride a covered training wheel on the rear, so I don't think I want to do a hub.

Yes, Look Keo

Just being able to move outdoors with power. I currently do about 98% of my riding indoors with power. Training for IM Chattanooga; would be a dream to KQ.

And preferably less than $500 at very most.

Thanks!

Answer all of the questions and I'll provide you with an answer.


do you want to have it on 1 bike or multiple? 1 Bike

do you want the ability to have a training wheel set and race wheels? Yes, a trainer wheel and outdoor wheel

do you ride the same pedals on all bikes? Only have one bike

What type of bike(s) is this going on? Cervelo P2

What is your goal? Just get an idea of the power I am putting out so I can train properly and don't go to hard in my 1st IM

How much do you want to spend? As little as possible

Used Quarq or Power2Max from the classifieds.

Find one on a crank that matches your existing bottom bracket and BCD (BB30 most likely)
or
Find the spider that works with your current crank/chainrings.


example: Quarq Riken AL - 172.5, BB30, Praxis 50/34 Rings - $475 from https://forum.slowtwitch.com/.../?page=unread#unread

or

Nicer rear wheel with powertap + disc cover.
Ex. HED Jet 6 with powertap, disc cover for racing

Bottom bracket: BBB BOTTOMFIT BBO-72, PF24 THREADED

if you have a 24mm bottom BB then find something shimano or Rotor 3d.

SRAM GXP spindles have 24mm on the drive side and 22mm on the Non-Drive side.

That's what I have. Love it. Want to get another.

C1s are limited as to which cranks they can be installed on, and getting more limited as vendors change their chainring mounting bolt patterns. Also they support 50-36 but not 50-34.

If they fit your chosen crank and chainrings, they are currently at a great price.

Stages currently have some great closeout deals. As someone else said, they don't get much love here, but I've had zero issues over 2 years of pretty heavy use, and I'd buy another one in a heartbeat for the prices they're going for at the moment. It's simple and gets the job done, and has helped me in my quest of moving from a MOP rider to FOP rider, which is the most important thing for me.

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http://www.howesgreg.com

ninagski wrote:

Looking to take the plunge into a power meter. I'm not necessarily looking for the cheapest, but I'm also not a pro and +/-3% accuracy is more than effective for me. Wondering if anyone has recommendations for best bang for your buck power meters that are effective and reliable. Thanks in advance!

All depends what plans do you have for your PM: is time just simple pacing? Or maybe just Zwifting, Aero testing, pedaling technique analysis etc...

Cheapest right now is probably Stages they have some great closeouts deals, but single leg PM cones with limitations, if you understand them, this will be your best bang for the buck

Garmin Vector 3 comes with additional pedal metrics if you know what to do with it it is really good.
Pioneer has even more interesting pedaling metrics.(they have single dual leg option)
Stages RL is bullet proof and very precise, no advanced pedal stroke metrics but I think it will outlive Garmin many times.
Quark solid PM great price similar to Stages RL depending on your BB might be best solution for your bike.
Powertap wheel - awesome PM but you are locked to the single wheel.

I'm currently running a pair of short Rotor 3D cranks (tested on my velotron) and they have a 110 BCD and look compatible.

My rationale currently is, if I went with the C1s, I could probably get a few years out of them and hopefully then get a very fancy powermeter when the price drops a few years down the road (I think we're on the verge of prices dropping due to all the competition that's now in the market, similar to race wheels).

I threw a set of C1 chain rings on my gravel bike. Figured for the price I'd try them out. They read about 12-15 watts higher than my powertaps on my race bikes during hard efforts. Strangely, they seem to show lower power when I'm just spinning along (probably just in my head). They shift fine.

All this bike terminology is Greek. There are some closeouts in the $150-$250 range here https://store.stagescycling.com/closeout-cosmetic-blems

What is the cheapest one on this page that will fit a 2017 Cervelo P2 with easy installation?

Crank: FSA BB386 EVO
Shimano 105 5800

Depends on your crank length which is printed in mm on back of every crank arm. A lot of the cheap options on that page are only available in the more obscure crank lengths (I don't think I have ever seen a Shimano 167.5mm crankset).

Also you can't mix Shimano and FSA (the arms fix to the spindle using a slightly different system). If you have a Shimano crank any of the single sided (left) arms will do as long as the length is correct. I'm not even going to take a punt on the FSA option even though I know some P2s were sold with a gossamer crank. FSA makes a lot of cranksets to conform to different bottom bracket standards so you need to match like for like.

Actually my crank is FSA BB386 EVO

I bought a Powertap hub thinking great I can swap it between bikes. Then I discovered aero and carbon wheels, now I have 3 wheels sets all with PowerTaps on :-)

They are all great though and have had 0 probs. Just the occasional battery change required

I would contact Stages. I have a P2 and the clearance is so tight. I changed to an Ultegra crankset that I had, but ultimately I went with the Watteam PM because it didn't affect the clearance inside the crankarm.

Brent

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DFRU - Detta Family Racing Unit...the kids like it and we all get out and after it...gotta keep the fam involved!

It wasn't my post but the link provided goes to the Shane Coetser app. I've just downloaded it and will hopefully get to give it a go on Sunday.

something happened today that might change the calculus.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

The C! has been 349 for many months..

okay. i'll take your word for it. has the p1 been $799? and the hub $399?

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

I think they all dropped at the same time. Not 100% positive... But a solid 95ish.

DCRainmaker is always the go-to on things like this. Looks like a March 1 price drop on the whole PowerTap line. This link also has a historical table. (But I think the C1's were actually on sale Xmasish)

https://www.dcrainmaker.com/...nds-spring-2018.html

Pretty sure they dropped overnight. I watched the online prices change between yesterday and today.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

DC Rainmaker wrote about the price drop in March 1. It does change the calculus, though, for us looking for less expensive pedal based options.

I think C1s went on sale around Black Friday time. Then they were on sale again for "winter training" special. They briefly returned to normal pricing, then went back on permanent sale in March.

The pedals were previously discounted as well, but I think they may have been refurbished.

GS hubs were around 350 for a long time before they sold out. The G3 and wheels were also on sale throughout the winter.

Definitely not a recent thing, but good to point out nonetheless since many don't seem to know about it.

I snagged a set last Monday for the $800 LESS 20% from my favorite online site. Already have the Vector 1 and 2, but couldn't resist that price.

Remember to value accuracy and reputation. My current one jumps +- 30 watts if I take the pedals off and put them back on.

Except if you really understand the limitations of a single leg PM, you'll realize that there's no reason to make a penny-wise pound-foolish decision and buy a single leg PM, when double leg PMs have come down so much in price.

I've been riding on my Kickr trainer and so far matching the power almost exactly as my Vector 2 did on the same trainer. Balance is also exactly the same 48/52 left/right so I'm extremely impressed.

Human beings and chimpanzees share about 98% of their DNA. Sometimes knowing what's different is more interesting than knowing that they're mostly the same.

I tried my best to find the differences. First I rode a simple 20 minutes using the Vector 2. Then I immediately took them off and put on the brand new PowerTap P1's and did the exact same 20 minute ride. Data was almost exactly the same except for a little warm up drift from the KIckr. I wasn't about to then try the Vector 2 again since it's a PIA to torque them down while on the trainer. Obviously a big advantage of the P1's and newer Vector 3 to not have to worry about the torque.

The Vectors do give a ton of cycling dynamics that's fun to look at, but really haven't been able to use that info to make me a better cyclist.

After a much longer ride yesterday, I have a lot of confidence that I'm getting nearly the same power numbers so I won't have to worry about different FTP's depending on which pedal PM's I use.

The C1 dropped a few months ago. PowerTap however is asking dealers to keep the old pricing ($699) so if you want a C1, PT should be where you go. The P1 and G3 both dropped together about two months ago. Not sure why the article came out two days ago on the price drop?

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Power Meter City
Your Power Meter Specialists

that was when we were told the price drop was official. silly us!

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

No problem. The bottom line is that the price dropped, and the PT line-up has very good bang-for-buck. Now that devices are imminent that can be used for measuring aero drag, it makes even more sense to get a power meter that produces high data quality.

There's a new competitor coming up on KickStarter. Take a look here;
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1468298434/cycling-power-meter-at-a-breakthrough-price
Yesterday I decided to back the product and go for the early bird special for a dual sides version for €199. A real bargain compared to the ones on the market currently. Off course no garantuee that it is great, but I'm cheering for these guys as a fellow Dutchie.

Our friend DC Rainmaker already has a post about it as well:
https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2018/04/iq2 … meter.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZ5_3y2XEVo

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