Not an expert, but from what I've gathered over the 8+ years I've been doing this, here are a few thoughts.

Helmet - Giro A2 is a great bet and priced quite cheaply
Tires & latex tubes - good tires and tubes save a significant chunk of time
Clip on aero bars - get you into a lower position

These three pretty simple changes might total $300 or so and could save a good amount of time.

Carbon wheels are a less economical way to go and are pretty pricey for the gains you make compared to a good helmet.

A tight fitting race kit is definitely better than anything flapping in the wind - size down, especially on the top.

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Latex tubes and tires with good rolling resistance that fit your wheels. And chain lube.

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I think a lot of people here are missing that you don't have clip on aerobars. Aerobars and a good position will probably get you 50% of your potential maximum aero+crr gains for about 2% of what that theoretical outlay would be.

A good position takes time and testing to achieve but you can get pretty close by trying to mimic guys like Kienle, Frodeno, etc.

Yep definitely aerobars but not far behind is tires, tubes, aero helmet.

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not an expert but from what I've read and experienced myself in order of lowest $/saved watt

1) clip on aero bars - cheapest of the options and I think they will save you around 5-10%.. could be off on the % so people please correct me
2) good hydration set up (i.e. BTA and behind the saddle vs round bottle on the downtube)
3) Aero helmet
4) latex tube - I've heard they can save you as much as 5 watts per tire
5) good fitting aero tri suit

Then there's also getting a good fit - Could by highest or lowest bang for your buck depending on your fit now.

Deep, aero wheels are probably the most exciting upgrade but you basically get the same time savings with an aero helmet for 10-20% of the cost.

Everyone is neglecting to mention a wheel cover for $99.

THIS.
The air thinks it's a disk. Your wallet thinks it's 1/10 or 1/20th of a disk.

But - there's the weight penalty of having all that extra $ in your wallet. ;-)

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float , hammer , and jog

I was wondering this the other day - do the covers have a hole in them for valve access? I haven't seen that they do from pics. What do you do if you get a rear flat during a race with a wheel cover?

there's a cut out for valve access. pump the tire, put a sticker on and you're done

Give this tool a try, it should help you out.

http://aeroweenie.com/aero-assistant.html

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Along with positioning, tight fitting clothes offers good bang for the buck.

testing

other than your time, it's free... and it will make you faster.

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My $.02 is all of the above but also keep in perspective that the people flying by you are most likely just better cyclists, not more aero. Get a TR subscription and ride with roadies.

Clip on aero bars is #1. I used my roadie with clip ons for 4 years and it worked well. I also used the profile design fast forward seatpost to change up the geometry to mimic a tri bike.

Get really strong on the bike first and foremost, then get a skin suit, get a good bike fit (say Retul), and an aero helmet. That's all you need.

But if you got the $$$, you can do more...;)

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Clip on Tri-bars.

People are saying an aero-helmet, but without tri-bars there is no point in having an aero-helmet.
BTA nutrition might also be difficult without the tri-bars!

Body Position (Aerobars!)
Tight Clothes
Tires/Tubes
Helmet

Not to dissuade you from your plan, as I likely won't, but you may want to hold off buying any equipment until you spring for the tri bike. I agree that aero bars are a good choice and can be fun to practice the position prior to buying a whole new frame. However, you'll never use them again once you get the new bike. If this is a 2-3 year solution, then it's probably a good purchase, but if it's a 1-year bridge to your new P5 or Shiv, IMO just save your money. And without the bars, the wheels, helmet and expensive suit maybe don't make sense. Maybe they do if you know you'd buy the same exact models with your tri bike.

I bought Profile Design aero bars for my Look road bike and used them for my first IM and it was great. But then I bought a tri bike one year later - RIP aero bars. Also mentally it's nice to wait on "buying" those time savings until you're passing those guys on the nice bikes.

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2017 races: St. George 70.3 May 6 | Madison 70.3 June 11 | IM Zurich July 30 | Chicago Marathon October 8

Even with normal road bars, an aero helmet will help.

Hope this helps, I had a similar question with good responses:
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...uipment%3F_P6163133/

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Sell your spacers.

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Read this website enuf and you will know this simple answer is 100% right



.

Your answer is all of those things you mention... helmet is an easy one and great bang for the buck. If you're sitting up though it isn't ideal, aerobars are great too. Getting a fit is a great idea... I never did was on my first bike, but I probably would have been better of if I had.

I was in a similar situation when I started doing triathlons and I went with a Gray Aerodome helmet with Profile Design Jammers riding a Fuji Roubaix Pro. I posted a top 10 bike split on that bike in a competitive half... that was also my "Aha" moment when I decided a tri bike would help get to the next level.

1. A good professional bike fit from someone reputable with a good knowledge of physiology
2. Some aerobars







10. Everything else...

Shave your legs and arms.

https://www.walmart.com/...-Ultragrip-10ct/3400

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'It never gets easier, you just get crazier.'

Aerobars hands down if you are riding a road bike. From there, I would do a fitted suit and a more aero helmet.

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2020 Team Zoot MTN

Thomas, since you're always in the know, any idea where I could get a short stem latex tube for a zipp disc?

Your best option is the Michelin Latex 36mm. That is about as short of a stem as you can find. The downside is there is no removable valve core so if you bust the valve core you are screwed. They can be difficult to get your hands on them sometimes. The Amazon price is outrageous and I am sure you can find for 10-12 dollars somewhere.

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If you are looking to minimize spending, maybe think about buying a used tri bike. I just sold my old 2008 Giant Trinity for $350. Scan your local craigslist for good deals, or even the classifieds here but then you're looking at paying extra for shipping etc. The Trinity was my tri starter bike and I used it 2 seasons for everything from sprints to 1/2 iron distance races until the itch for a sexier, newer bike was so strong that I had to scratch it.

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Hi Thomas,
do you recommend latex tubes for HIM and IM distances? Is there a brand you like? was going to try this year. running 404's with a disc cover. thanks.

Pretty much everyone should be recommending Vittoria Latex tubes. In the past I tried gambling with Vred (about 25 gram ligther) and Challenge but nothing has been as reliable as the Vittoria.

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Several of the items listed (tires/tubes and tight clothing) are more about optimization rather than bang/buck. You will have to buy tires, so get fast ones. You will have to race in some sort of clothing, so get tight stuff. Yes the gear might be a little bit more that the cheap stuff, but you are gaining a lot of speed for the little difference in price (this is the rationale I give my wife about my purchases, but I'm not sure she buys it).

One thing that has not been mentioned is a comfortable saddle. Riding in aerobars properly requires a rotation of the hips that is probably not comfortable on your regular road saddle. The aerobars will do you no good if you can't ride in that position.

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I have it on good authority that they don't, the most I hope for is a wry smirk and a head nod.

  
just echoing what other people have said:

Since drag is proportional to the cross sectional area, your body is much bigger surface area than the bike. Using the aero bars to reduce your surface area is biggest bang for the buck. Remove your bottle cages from your tubes. Your non-aero helmet has about 4x the drag of wheels, so get an aero helmet before wheels. And don't get a rudy project. Getting the tight fitting aero clothing is also a no-brainer.

There should be an old thread on the MIT cycling team article about getting aero for cheap.

1) aerobars ~ 40$
2) forward seatpost + lower stem ~ 60$
3) helmet ~ 60$
4) shoe covers - ~10$
4) speedsuit ~ 40$
5) wheels ~ 800$

1. Bang? Power meter + trainer road. Most bang I've ever gotten for any buck. Mountain bike w/ slick tires to tri bike was minimal increase for me. Started training w/ power and it was night and day.
2. Buck? Drop weight. It's free.

Until you're > 3 W/kg the gear won't matter. They'll blow right by your upgrades. At 4 W/kg it'll start to get fun.

100% agreed. Wired SRM for 150$, I suppose the more important than clip-in pedals for me :)

If you don't have them, yes, adding aerobars (and using them of course) will give you (BY FAR) the biggest return on speed.

Not just the biggest return on the dollar.
The biggest return period.

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Slam that stem!

In my opinion ceramic bearings for your wheels.
My wheels just dont want to stop...
Almost frictionless!

Getting ST to fund your visit to a wind tunnel.

Do tell where you are shopping? I have been looking for 3-4 of these items and nothing even remotely close to the prices you are throwing out. Not doubting you just want to know

Typically see:
1.)Aerobars: 99+ (And that is starting with the airstrykes not great for tall guys)
2.)Seatpost Stem setup-$120
3.) Helmet(I Assume Aero)- $120+
4.) Speedsuit- $125+

 
t2+ - I see bids on ebay 29$ + 10$ delivery. or 45 to buyitnow. Cannot find any reason to buy new aerobars.
fastforward seatpost - ebay, see 21$ now, but bike-discount new - it was ~50eur.
stem - I prefer adjustable - 25$ (new)
helmet - this forum.
speedsuit - I would avoid heavy-medium used, but possible to find in like-new condition.

Kiwami LD Prima is on sale for $59 plus you can find a 10-20% off coupon pretty easy. I bought this suit and can't imagine a much better bargain for a trisuit

Where is the Kiwami on sale for that price? Thar seems about $100 low from what I have seen.

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Alan Stewart

Go to sale page; not sure what sizes are left