OK, I will bite. I had an an Old Slice size 51, and now on the New P3 51 which fits more like an old Slice 53. I believe the new Slice 48 is in line with the old Slice 51. Not that i am "that high" but on the NP3, I have only 1 spacer and am using Bonetrager ski bend carbon clip ons. If I go to the new Slice, I think I need a 48. The New Slice 51, although having the same stack as the new P3, might actually be "higher" because the headset cap spacer seems to have more rise. Can you confirm about that spacer? In this case the 48 might be better. It has similar stack and reach to the old Slice 51.

Dev

let's look how the frames compare:

old slice 51: stack = 49.4, reach = 37.1
new slice 48: stack = 48.7, reach = 37.5

if it's the same front end on each bike, the length is within 4mm, the height 7mm. if you slapped 7mm more of spacers under the front end, that raises the new 48 up to match the old 51. but that is going to pull the bars back about 2mm, so now you have a front end that is 6mm closer to you. you have to decide if that makes a difference; if you want to get another, longer stem. not a big deal.

i don't know about the headset top cap, but those are made to be changed. also, when i got my supersix evo it came with what looked like a tall top cap but when i took it off there was a mini top cap, only 5mm or so, underneath. pretty nifty.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

comment: with the RS having an adjustable pad stack range of 7cm and adjustable pad reach of 4cm, I never bought into this bike being a difficult bike to fit people to, But rather, it may have been one of the more adjustable super-bikes out there that retained its aerodynamics relatively well.

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wovebike.com | Wove on instagram

I loved the RS. I have a Slice currently (2012) that I love to death but if I could get an RS I would do it immediately. Waiting to see if Cannondale brings anything to the table for 2016. However you can get plenty low on the last gen Slice with a front end and stem. The current-gen Slice actually looked kind of ugly to me, but it is growing on me.

Dan, thanks for offering this. I am actually eyeing one of these new Slice bikes because of the ease of travel and now being in a country where the ease of getting proprietary parts is near impossible. My old bike was a Trek Speed Concept (Gen1). Long / low stem. Arm Pad reach from Retul fit was 460mm. Handlebar reach was 465mm and handlebar stack was 549mm.
How would I fit on the new Slice?

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-"Bottom line, it's the Hunter, not the arrow. Ride what you want."

http://fulltriathlonracing.blogspot.com/

Hi all
Not been a member for long, but I have been pouring over the articles and forum for months.
I did a Guru bike fit and came up with the following:
HX 523
HY 666
SX 133
SY 786
Saddle thickness - Fizik Tritone (mm): 54
Saddle clamp to nose (mm): 100
Bar length Zipp Vuka (mm): 250
Pad stack height (mm): 60
Crank Length (mm):165


Measured Data (I think these are just measurements the fitter takes, rather than the system)
Saddle Height 864mm
Saddle Incline +2.00
Tip of Saddle Behind 35mm
Tip of Saddle to Centre of Back of Pads 520mm
Top of Saddle to Top of Pads 125mm
Back of Pads to Extensions 365mm
Pad Width 280mm
Pad Angled 55/05
Shifter Width 25mm

One of the bikes that came out of the fitting was a Slice, although the fitters did not have experience of it. But I bought into the Slice story and bought one ( size 60, Stack 567, reach 435). I have taken it apart (intend to replace pretty much everything and convert to Di2) and have bought new Zipp Vuka Bull and Zipp Aero bars, and am just now trying to decide on the best spacer/stem/zipp fore-aft/zipp stack combo. I just can not seem to get numbers to add up sensibly! Any help would be very greatly appreciated.
Thanks very much

Duncan

If I can take off the top cap the new slice 51 (stack 50.7, reach 39) ends up being similar to the New P3 (50.6, 39.7). Based on your measurements, the old slice 51 and the new slice 48 are pretty well the same, so I would need to decide which end of the spectrum I want to go with (less spacers, shorter stem on the 51, more spacers, longer stem on the 48).

For info, to remove the plastic cover behind the topcap, there is a screw you need to undo from inside the frame, as per pg 13 of this:

http://media.cannondale.com/...Can_Slice_OMS_EN.pdf

Took me a while to figure out.

"with the RS having an adjustable pad stack range of 7cm and adjustable pad reach of 4cm, I never bought into this bike being a difficult bike to fit people to"

the longest reach in a slice RS is 411mm. this is probably 25mm shorter than the next shortest tri bike made. anywhere. so, yes, you can overcome this through just pushing the front end forward. but when you have that much weight cantilevered in front of the steer column is this good?

it doesn't matter for TT races conforming to the UCI's rules, because you can't cantilever the front end way out there. 1.3.023 of the UCI rulebook keeps that from happening. but that's a stupid rule, and triathlon (smartly) doesn't have that rule. that allows triathletes to get themselves into a little bit of trouble with this bike.

lowness. yes, you're right. but making a bike super super low means that if you do pedestal up the pads, the pursuits are staying down there, way low. if that's okay, if that's a position that works for you, fine. if not, less fine. so adjustability doesn't tell the whole story.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

"Handlebar reach was 465mm and handlebar stack was 549mm"

the assumption below is based on the EXACT same aerobar configuration on the slice as what was on the fit bike when you were fit. can you verify this? it's highly likely you were riding a different bar during that fit session. can you let me know? and, what kind of fit bike were you on when you were fit?

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

I like Cannondale a lot. But I don't understand their pricing. If you look at the Slice "black" on their website it is priced in the $10k range. I am not sure you could even call that frame a "super-bike" and I don't understand why it would priced higher than say Felt IA3 or 4, a QR PR6 or others I guess I could name. I have a good friend that rides an older Slice and I would really like to consider one for my next bike, but I don't understand the pricing. Maybe I am missing something.

i agree. and it's not a superbike, not if you consider the definition to be one where the whole front of the bike - frame, fork, stem, aerobars - kind of meld into one integrated unit.

i doubt they sell very many of the black inc slices. that's not the value of this bike. the value is in the $2,500 price range.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

A few questions:

1. Do you have to remove the plastic cover behind the top cap to remove the top cap?
2. If you do, can you put your stem flush with the top bearing without the stem causing problems with the plastic cover (assume you put the plastic cover back after you remove the top cap)
3. How the heck do you unscrew that screw that holds the plastic cover on from INSIDE the frame. I looked at page 13 and it seems counter intuitive that I can actually get a screwdriver/hex wrench inside the frame to unscrew the screw/bolt in question. Do you have to remove the entire fork and go in from the inside of that cavity from the bottom hole for the fork in the frame head tube?

My guess is you have to drop the forke to access it. Kind of silly way to design that if you ask me

1. No - top cap removes like normal, and plastic cover stays where it is.
2. I can not see how the cover and a normal stem would be compatible without the 25mm top cap spacer. To slam it, you have to remove the plastic cover.
3. Take the fork out. Then as you say - from the bottom fork hole, use a long flexible socket extension/screwdriver. Not sure how to do it without that tool (which I happened to have). Good news is you only have to do it once.

One more question. Does the plastic cover have any funtion in terms of guiding the wires. for example if you remove the top cap spacer AND the plastic cover and just slammed the stem down to the cartridge bearing (or maybe a really thin spacer), is everything fine that way in terms of wiring? Based on the measurements on the 51 and my current front end, I would need to remove the top cap spacer on the 51, but would be fine on the 48. Then the question is how much reach I want on the 48 and do I need the reach on the 51. Likely the 48 is plenty if I go with a longer stem.

Not super tight, but then I don not think my other bikes are either... they stay in place on their own accord, but might fall out with a hit. The cups are tight, but the bearings are just cosy

Has no function that I can see.... other than make the massive top cap a bit more aero. I thin kall of the pro Slices I have seen have removed it. And even the promotional shots show the bike without it..... www.cannondale.com/nam_en/slice/photos/ None of the pictures on this page in fact have it. I prefer the look of it without.

Agree not a superbike, but super easy to work on. Much better than my P5-Six I had before, and which I sold for a Slice Black Inc. Am swapping handle bars to the new Alpha X, with low handlebar and high risers, so pretty close to a superbike. Much happier currently with the bike and its handling, and especially weight in comparison to the P5. Only downfall is that my knee is currently ruined with 2015 Season already over and it is looking pretty in my garage. Season 2016 will be more interesting on it.

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My Blog - My Tweets - My Strava
My Bikes - CF SLX, 622SLX, O-1.0, AL9.0, 4.3Disc, Slice BI, C60

I wasn't on a fit bike. The measurements were taken off of a Gen1 speed concept. So the Trek base bar / aero bar combo were used. I haven't had a chance to get aboard the actual Retul fit bike. The bike shop had the retul wand and data gathering system to pull measurements off of my current bike.

I have no problem putting a 3T Brezza or Pro Missle on the Slice if it allows me a better position. I mainly like the ease of travel use on this bike. I'm just wondering if I can make it fit well like that old Speed Concept.

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-"Bottom line, it's the Hunter, not the arrow. Ride what you want."

http://fulltriathlonracing.blogspot.com/

what kind of speed concept, 7 or 9 series?

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

Thats interesting. The ones in mine fit loose allowing a bit of play in the cups but the headset properly secured so I didn't think much of it. Other questions I had for other slice owners was, does your rear derailleur hanger bolts come loose after hundred of hard miles?

Sorry. Speed Concept 9 series

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-"Bottom line, it's the Hunter, not the arrow. Ride what you want."

http://fulltriathlonracing.blogspot.com/

I bought a 2015 Slice Hi Modular carbon frame which is normally fitted out with Dura Ace Di2 but also takes mechanical gearing. Mine is a size 57 by the Cannondale system of measurement but the top tube is only 55cm. Nevertheless, I had done my homework and knew that a 130mm stem would have me comfortable although I do have the saddle mounted on the rear of the two positions. I guess in hindsight I could have bought the next size up but my policy is to err with smaller rather than larger when it comes to frames.

Although the model I bought usually comes standard with an FSA crankset and 53/39 chainrings, I decided to stay with my usual compact crankset and fitted it (at great expense) with the Cannondale SiSL 2 cranks. Because this particular crankset requires special tools I decided to have the LBS fit it.

I have fitted a few rear brake calipers behind the BB previously but this was my first experience with the Dura Ace direct mount calipers. I am really not a fan of the BB mounted rear brake but it seems that bike manufacturers are somewhat wedded to them. I was hoping it was just an aesthetic thing that would fade away but it seems not. Same with the matt color finish. Would you buy a car with a matt finish?

Generally I am very happy with it and it will become my bike of choice for major races.

"Speed Concept 9 series"

here is my problem. i need to know that metric that you gave me: "Handlebar reach was 465mm and handlebar stack was 549mm."

i can work with this. i can either work with this, or pad X and pad Y. i think you gave me the pad X but not the Y.

as to handlebar stack/reach, or as we like to call it, HX and HY, how did your retul fitter come up with this number? unless you took off the integrated bar on the SC9, replacing the integrated stem and bar with a steerer stub, then with a standard stem and bar, how can you / did you determine HX and HY, i.e., how can you tell me what the X and Y dimensions are from the BB to the center of the stem hole, where the bar passes through it, if there is no stem hole?

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

this is monumentally easy when you understand how this works and can wrangle the tools. i only need this:

HX 523
HY 666

first, i'm going to plunk these into the this calculator. we're going to resolve the stack and reach of the frame we're looking for by subtracting the x and y component of the front end of the bike from the numbers you gave me above. to do this, we have to stick into that calculator the front end you desire.

here's the problem. this is a big, big bike. that HY is a tall, tall number. normally i'd put in a -17° stem in the calculator, but i'm putting a -6° in there, because we need help everywhere we can get it to get the pads up high enough. i'm going with -6° stem pitch, 10mm total of spacers + headset top cap, and a 100mm stem. what i come up with is:

stack: 618
reach: 434

this bike in its 60cm size is:

stack: 567
reach: 435

so we're good in length. the issue is height. we need 5cm of height.

let me add a further complication. do you notice in your fit report, "pad height = 60mm"? that means the pads used during your fit session was something like a profile design, or zipp, with pads that sit 60mm above the centerline of the pursuit bar. that slice, complete, comes with a vision bar with a pad height of about 35mm.

so, first thing, those vision bars must go. they ought to be replaced with profile aeria, or something like it. then you pedestal the living jeezus out of it. 50mm of pedestals. like zo =>


this all assumes, of course, that the fit was done right. it's just math. just a numbers game. but that front end described + that frame + these bars + these pedestals = your fit coordinates on this bike.

you give the above prescription to Nytro or your local Cannondale dealer, they build the slice up this way, subbing in these bars, just like this, with that 100mm -6° stem, only 10mm of total headset cap + spacer, you should come out with the bike that matches your fit session.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

To be honest, I'm not sure how he came up with it. The integrated bar setup on the 9 series Speed Concept was always on the bike. He used the retul wand on my current setup, and I got the print out with all of the measurements. It will probably be easier with the arm pad x/y.

Arm pad X: 460mm
Arm pad Y: 598mm

Sorry for all of the confusion. I can email you the retul fit sheet if it is better that way.

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-"Bottom line, it's the Hunter, not the arrow. Ride what you want."

http://fulltriathlonracing.blogspot.com/

"To be honest, I'm not sure how he came up with it."

this is why every couple of years i write an article on what your reasonable expectations are as a customer going in for a bike fit. my intent is to equip you, so that you don't take that time and spend that money and not come away with metrics that make sense.

now, there is one other way to go about this, and that's to get, from you, pad x and pad y, from the position you intend to ride. if you give me that, then i can figure from that.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

Dan - the LBS has a Slice RS 2013 for $3k... pretty tempting.

I dont have my current fit measurements (same LBS does) but I currently ride a Large Blue AC1 SL with a 110mm stem, and a Scott Scale 920 (2013) - Size charts below. Im 183.75cm and apparently long legged. Average flexibility.

I have not owned a TT/Tri bike before so no reference points.

Unsure which size Slice would be most suitable - would assume 56?

Blue:

XSSMMDMLLGXL(A) Horiz. Top Tube Length C-C (cm)50.552.554565860(B) Seat Tube Length C-T (cm)464649525558(C) Head Tube Length (cm)1012.514.51617.519.5(D) Head Tube Angle (degrees)71.571.57272.572.572.5(E) Seat Tube Angle (degrees)74.57473.57372.572.5(F) Fork Rake (cm)4.54.54.54.54.54.5(G) Chain Stay Length (cm)40.540.540.540.540.540.5(H) Bottom Brackett Drop (cm)777777(I) Wheelbase (cm)95.397.297.898.9100.4102.4(J) Seat Tube Diameter (cm)Aero shapes seat tube and clamp(K) Outside Seat Tube Diameter (cm)Aerus C4 Pro full carbon aero seat post(L) Standover Height (cm)72.373.475.87980.182.5(M) Frame Stack(cm)49.65252.455.75759(N) Frame Reach(cm)36.637.737.938.94041.3
Scott:


SMLXLAhead tube angle69.5 °69.5 °69.5 °69.5 °Bhead tube length105.0 mm105.0 mm115.0 mm125.0 mmCtop tube horizontal580.0 mm600.0 mm620.0 mm640.0 mmDstandover height756.0 mm783.0 mm810.0 mm842.0 mmEBB offset-60.0 mm-60.0 mm-60.0 mm-60.0 mmFBB height310.0 mm310.0 mm310.0 mm310.0 mmGwheel base1,079.0 mm1,096.8 mm1,117.0 mm1,137.9 mmHBB center to toptube center329.0 mm375.0 mm415.0 mm465.0 mmIBB center to top of seattube390.0 mm440.0 mm480.0 mm530.0 mmJseat angle72.5 °72.5 °72.5 °72.5 °Kchainstay438.0 mm438.0 mm438.0 mm438.0 mmLreach385.0 mm405.0 mm422.0 mm439.0 mmMstack618.0 mm618.0 mm628.0 mm637.0 mmNstem length70.0 mm80.0 mm90.0 mm100.0 mm

the slice RS is tougher, because it's a superbike: it doesn't have a standard front end. it's got its own special stems making them immune to the calculators here. this is why all the companies are going to pad x and pad y fit systems specific to the bike. except, this bike doesn't have one.

you're right at 6' tall. this means the largest size made in this bike.

look, the new QR PRsix would fit you in its size 52. the slice RS fits you in its size 58. forget what size the bike is, look at how the bike fits. the 56 would be too small for you, but the 58 would work okay.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

Thanks Dan

Got confused with the Zipp fit app which I now realise takes measurement from the back of the pads - that is why nothing was adding up. But that all makes sense now. Thanks very much for your help.

Duncan

Cannondale Slice 2015 posted aero data:
[/url]



This was posted around the time the Slice 2015 was introduced. It may not be a true apples to apples comparison.

Dan,

I intend to set up the new Cannondale slice with the following fit coordinates:

Arm pad X: 460mm
Arm pad Y: 598mm

Is it possible with the new Slice?

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-"Bottom line, it's the Hunter, not the arrow. Ride what you want."

http://fulltriathlonracing.blogspot.com/

Hey Dan,

Don't have the specs, but got hit by a car yesterday and have IMC in 3 weeks. Was on a 2011 Slice 3 size 54, and made it work for my reach (good deal on it but more short legs and longer torso 5'9 - 80 cm inseam). Is the new Slice even a good possibility or should I look elsewhere. Unfortunately a bit screwed with timeframe with race in 3 weeks.

Thanks!

Brent

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DFRU - Detta Family Racing Unit...the kids like it and we all get out and after it...gotta keep the fam involved!

You would need to size down and get a 10mm longer stem



Or a 51 New P2 is close to identically sized to your dearly departed bike

Thanks so much - actually was thinking of the NP2 as well. This seems to be a pretty good choice as well.

What a cluster - not what I wanted 3 weeks from an IM. Let alone a small broken bone in the hand.

Thanks again!

Brent

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DFRU - Detta Family Racing Unit...the kids like it and we all get out and after it...gotta keep the fam involved!

Hi Dan, not sure if you can (still) help, but I'm 1.865m tall (6'1"+), 88.5cm inseam. I liked the fit of an XL 7.5 2015 Speed Concept, which as 56.5 stack and 44.5 reach.
In the new Slice I am leaning towards a 60cm one (56.7 stack and 43.8 reach), but afraid of going too high and slightly small for their biggest size... I think you have similar measurements and ride a SC, right?
Would you be able to say if should I go with the 57cm or the 60cm one of the 2015 Slice?
Thanks!

Hi Dan
I'm considering a Slice for next season. I've qualified for both 70.3 and Ironman world championships next year.
I like to ride kind of slack at 77.
My last two bikes were a xsmall Shiv and trek 7.5 small. I'm current on BMC TM02 mid-short. I have 50cm stem and profile arial bars with 2.5cm stack. 2cm stem stack.
Thanks for your input.

Hi Dan,
Realize this post is coming up on 2 years old, but I'm looking into a 2016 Slice. I'm almost 6'1", with an inseam to the floor of 34". Haven't owned a Tri bike for about 4 years, but on my last one, a 55cm Kestrel 4000, the frame stack and reach were 53.6/41.8cm. And the Stack to top center of armrest 64.8cm, Reach to rear edge of armrest 45.9cm (105mm F99 Stem on Felt Devox aerobar). I also like to ride very steep. Generally jacked as forward as reasonable. Looking at a 57cm Slice based on advertised Stack and Reach of 54.7/42. Top tube of 52.7 is disconcerting, but the Stack/Reach seem right.
Thanks,
Kevin

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I wanna go fast!

top tube means nothing. stack and reach is all that counts in terms of FIT. that bike seems the right size based on your height. it's got very low aerobars spec'd on it. won't know if those bars work for you unless i know your fit coordinates.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

Hi Dan,

Sorry to open this again....

With that in mind then, if the stack & reach for the new slice in a 57 are v similar to my old 2013 slice in a 58, I can ignore the much shorter top tube (which did make me very nervous!). I had to sell the old one when I moved to the US from the UK and now want a replacement....

Thanks

B

The 2015-2017 Slice is no longer made. There is a newer SuperSlice that the pro cycling teams ride and a few select triathletes from 2017 got a chance to use in 2017 only. You might find an "old stock" Slice on ebay but it might be best to wait--if you can--for the new version--if it arrives?

I can still find one I think- it’s more the geometry I am worried about....

B