Yeah... data with 5% error trying to predict 2% differences. Too much noise in the data.
I have used all of the setups mentioned, so I am practically THE expert on the topic.
Road: 2x is the way to go for the smaller gaps, as road is more of a rhythm game anyway. 1x is fine, but i hate getting caught between gears.
gravel: 2x is fine for gravel where long rides are common and you get in a rhythm. 1x if fine also, but the big gaps become noticed when you ride with people on 2x. You don’t realize 1x is a compromise until you go back to 2x.
Cx: 1x is pretty key for cx and anything remotely muddy. Cx is all full gas or braking/turning, so if you are fussing too much about cadence... you are losing. The less you need to fiddle with a 2x, the better.
Xc/mtb: 1x. If you need the very top or bottom of your cassette, you are either unfit (losing) or you chose the wrong front chainring. There is often so much rapid change in elevation that cadence is less of a factor. 1x lets you focus on the task at hand (line, obstacles, etc).
I have used all of the setups mentioned, so I am practically THE expert on the topic.
Road: 2x is the way to go for the smaller gaps, as road is more of a rhythm game anyway. 1x is fine, but i hate getting caught between gears.
gravel: 2x is fine for gravel where long rides are common and you get in a rhythm. 1x if fine also, but the big gaps become noticed when you ride with people on 2x. You don’t realize 1x is a compromise until you go back to 2x.
Cx: 1x is pretty key for cx and anything remotely muddy. Cx is all full gas or braking/turning, so if you are fussing too much about cadence... you are losing. The less you need to fiddle with a 2x, the better.
Xc/mtb: 1x. If you need the very top or bottom of your cassette, you are either unfit (losing) or you chose the wrong front chainring. There is often so much rapid change in elevation that cadence is less of a factor. 1x lets you focus on the task at hand (line, obstacles, etc).
Last edited by:
Rocket_racing: May 2, 19 14:35