We're not really set up for factory-direct sales, and online sales and shipping aren't part of every dealer's business plan. Some US-based dealers do offer those services but maybe not for every item in the catalog. The only way to know which ones might do that is to search for something like "Trek online sales" to find those which have online ordering and then contact them with your specific needs and see what they say.

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Carl Matson

Hey Carl,

Do you know when Trek will release the 2015 version of the SC? Any major/minor changes? Thanks!

the 2015's are live on the website right now.

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Carl Matson

sorry yes.. i've seen the 9.9 and the 7.5 on other sites stating its 2015. But for the 9.5 its always described as 2014 (on a few sites) and I believe its the same color scheme as last years... maybe i'm mistaken and i apologize if i am.

Took the plunge this week on a 2015 P1 9 series speed concept, U5 Vapour Coat, UCI legal aero set up. Dropped the groupset back to Ultegra 6800 and the budget TLR wheelset. The 2011 9 series (currently 9070 Di2) will donate all the Di2 groupset and go fast wheels to the new bike.

Now the 30 - 44 day wait begins!

Carl,
I want to buy a Quarq Power Meter for my SC 7.5 (2013 model) and wonder if you can help with the specs I should look for in the Quarq. Thanks in advance!

Quarqs can be had in GXP and Shimano BB standards (among others...but those are the only two which are compatible with the SC), so pick which of those you want to use and go from there. OE spec on the 2013 7.5 was Ultegra I believe, so if you want to avoid changing your BB just pick a Shimano-compatible Quarq model.

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Carl Matson

Hi Carl.

Question: say that a bolt has broken off in the top part of the clamp for my Race Lite (not X) aerobars. The clamp that holds the bars to the basebar (like this clamp on this page, but for the Race Lite bars: http://www.evanscycles.com/...robar-clamp-ec037861) It's not one of the bolts that holds it to the basebar, but rather one of the bolts that fixes the aero extension in place. So in the pic on that page above, it would be one of the screws on the bottom of the image. If that makes sense. One of the bolts on the top of the clamp when it's on the bike. The 6.8 nm bolts, if I recall the numbers correctly.

The bolt is not coming out, it's trashed/fused in place.

I'm trying to locate a replacement clamp, but the nice guy I talked to at Trek today said that this part is no longer available by itself--I'd have to buy a new set of bars.

My question is this: If I can't find the part, is there a good reason why I shouldn't retap that hole to a bigger bolt, say like the kind used on the bottom of the same clamp on the part that holds it to the base bar? It doesn't seem like a safety issue, like it would if it was one of the bolts keeping the whole assembly from swinging up and down. It's the bolts that keep the extension where it is front to back and rotationally.

Retapping seems like more trouble, but I can get that done for nearly free, while a new set of bars is both not in the cards right now and seems excessive for only needing the clamp. I'd just like input on whether you think that would damage the integrity of the part.

Thanks :)

The RL version of the part isn't available separately, but the RXL is and it's in stock in 2 of the domestic warehouses: 400511

I don't know that there's any difference besides graphics.

Drilling and retapping as you suggested wouldn't be recommended (definitely a warranty-voiding move) because there's no guarantee that enough material would be left for both adequate thread engagement and to resist cracking under load.

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Carl Matson

Thanks Carl. Much appreciated. The only difference I see with the two parts in the pics is where the bottom bracket piece contacts the rest of the bracket. That is a flat plane of connection on the RL, and interlocking angles on the RXL. but yeah, it otherwise looks the same. I can't tell clamping diameters, but the guy I talked to yesterday thought they were the same.

By warranty voiding...I guess I could dig up my paperwork, but what specifically would be voided, in 2015, on a 2012 bike? That specific part is already out of warranty, yes? If I've got larger bike warranty issues still in play, that's a different story. But yeah, I figured it wouldn't be Trek Approved :) I was more concerned with you saying something like "don't do that, it will kill you" :)

Thanks as always for the help.

  
Here's the Bontrager warranty page.

As for the potential consequences of the modification you're contemplating, I don't have an owners manual for your particular bar handy, but here's a link to the RXL version which uses substantially the same clamp. See the bottom of page 5.

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Carl Matson

That's above and beyond my friend, Thank you for the linkage. Talked to my bike shop (Trek dealer) , and they had come to the same conclusion, so the RXL part has been ordered. Makes me happy, I like my bars, but I also like not having to buy a new entire set.

Thanks for the consult and frank opinions, have a good one :)

:-)

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Carl Matson

I have a 9.9 2011 base bar with arm rests, clamps, raisers, and extensions that I would sell. Anyone interested?

Carl, I am new to this thread but it looks like you're the guy who knows everything! I just purchased a new to me sub9 disc wheel for my 2011 speed concept 7.5 and I am having trouble fitting it between the brake pads without any rubbing. What should I do?

you should see several spacers in between the brake arms and your brake pads...move all but the last one ( the curved one) to the outside of the brake arms.

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Carl Matson

Carl or anyone else: is there any way to get the arm pads closer together on a current model SC9? I'd really like to get my elbows touching if possible.

Nothing leaps to mind. ..even running long extensions out the back of the plug'n'play mono and putting the old sc's pad clamps on there (pointed inboard vs the usual outboard orientation) would probably result in interference between the clamps and the mono.

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Carl Matson

I did this and there is still some rubbing. I am going to get some zipp tangente platinum pro evo pads. They are supposed to be thinner. If this doesn't work, would it be a terrible idea to remove the curved washer?

If you're rubbing on both sides then yes, thinner pads might help. Bontrager cork pads fit that description too.

If it's only one side you might try adjusting the centering of the rear brake.. .it's mounted on a slotted plate for that purpose.

Moving that last spacer would eliminate your ability adjust for toe-in and camber.

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Carl Matson

It seems like there's probably a set of arm pads out there somewhere that would fit but have holes in the right spot allowing them to get closer together.

Carl - quick question for you. 2012 Speed Concept 9. My frameset came with 1 cm risers for the base bar. Is there a 1/2 cm riser part number by any chance?

Thanks!

Ryan

OE spec was a stack which included 1x5mm, 2x10mm, and 1x25mm spacers, and that's how replacement kits are sold...PN 420552.

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Carl Matson

Do you happen to know what stem(s) are provided with the 2014 SC 9 series frame set (e.g., does it come with a mid-far by default)? I am looking at picking-up a frame set for a build, I think I will need the low-far, so I was trying to plan ahead in getting what I need.

Thanks.

if you're buying a stock 9series frameset it depends on the size

if you're going Project One, you get to pick the stem

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Carl Matson