General warning: I don't know how your IRS works, but Revenue Canada is pretty good at identifying expensive stuff being shipped into the country, so any gain you have from shopping overseas is erased by the duty that gets slapped on. And the problem is that you have no idea how much duty they're going to zing you with. That's the reason even ordering from the US is a game of chance for us Canucks.

---

Citizen of the world, former drunkard. Resident Traumatic Brain Injury advocate.

I'm going to pull the trigger tomorrow but I still dont know what shifters I want. I rarely go into the small ring, I do mostly flat riding and hills small enough to where I can stay in the big ring. It looks like the two button shifters have more length, is that correct? My current extensions are at their max and i dont want to lose any reach. Also, if i got the two button shifters, could i use all the same wiring and junction boxes?

I think I finally have all parts on order. Total all in was $910.00. That is with 6800 Ultegra derailleurs and Dura Ace shifters and brake levers that I found used, but in spotless condition (at least aesthetically).

I do have one question on wire length as I still have time to stop an order. I see you have 150mm then the wireless unit, then 800mm. I assume that is enough to get me from the stem to the BB? I'll have a 5 port in the stem of the Alpha X bars and this run will be from there to the SM-JC41 which will split off to the batter/FD/RD. The shifters and brakes I have already have the wire "pig tail" hard wired into them. Having everything meet at the 5 port seems like the simplest and cleanest solution. From there, I'm really just going off of your measurements for everything else since I'm on the IA16 as well.

Yes, the 150mm+Wireless Unite+800mm gets from the stem to the BB. Actually, it is way longer than I needed. But, that was no problem because the cost was not that much different and the extra cable did make it a little easier to run.

The pigtails on the brake shifters are not long enough to make it to the 5-port junction in the Alpha X, so you will need to get short cables to make up the distance there.

I just purchased everything, just under $1100. Keep me posted on your status as I am doing the same thing. Looking forward to this!!!

Everything works and all firmware updated. Was nervous as a lot of stuff is used and could not confirm it worked until I got all the widgets. Completely forgot the FD I bought came with the B junction and 300mm wire, so I'm actually 50 bucks cheaper than I thought. $860 all in I believe.

Bars should be in tomorrow. Hope to have this installed by the weekend!!! This write up made the whole thing a lot easier.

Thought I would give back to this thread for all the help it has provided me. By the way, thank you exxxviii, without this thread I would not have been comfortable doing a DI2 upgrade myself, never mind going the Junction A box into the bar idea. Super sexy!

I did a DI2 upgrade on my Gen 2 Speed Concept. It went extremely well and I am very happy with how it ended up. I wanted to get more reach on my bike and the only way to do it without a headache was with a DI2 upgrade. Good excuse as any to go electronic!!!

Heres the part list all bought online. For us Canadians, I had the joy of worrying about getting slapped with tax, service fees etc. on this all. From my understanding we do not have to pay duty on bike components, so if you are importing make sure you make it EXPLICITLY clear that you are purchasing bike components. However, its still a hassle if it gets dinged, as you have to send a letter to the boarder agency and whatnot.

I spent around 1500 CAD for the DI2 parts, wires ect. and I ended up buying a bunch of parts from Canadian sites during Black Friday. This was to mitigate headache from shipping from the UK. Prices ended up being around the same +/- 50CAD doing this. I did buy some parts from Ribble and Sigma Sports. Funny enough, there was a postal strike in Canada so all the canadian parts were delayed. Not only that, but the UK sites were actually extremely fast... I got my UK orders in like 4 days, over 1-1.5 weeks from the Canadian sites! Sigma sports has a nice feature as well where you can prepay tax, which decreased the headache. TBH I would shop sigma sports again even though its from the UK. With shipping included I basically went with what was cheapest and also convenience factor. I avoided Probikekit because I heard nightmare stories of their shipping. Stuck to bigger retailers from the UK or Canadian sites. By the way, be prepared to make spreadsheets to get this whole thing done. You have to buy it piece by piece... thank you shimano... so I ended up making a spreadsheet and tracking the prices for around 6 weeks. Then I knew the baseline price for them in CAD and tried to see when the prices dropped locally or abroad. This worked really well. TBH I would have saved minimally buying it before or on Black Friday, as the priced barely changed. Best prices were from the UK. Black Friday allowed me to buy more locally from Canadian retailers. The Canadian retailers ended up being the same price I would have paid for them in the UK, but I had less fear of it getting dinged at the boarder.

I also over bought wires due to there being some packaged wire combos on Ribble. I also got some DI2 wires from a Slowtwitch user when I purchased some aerobars from him, which actually went unused. Guess you can never have DI2 wires though in case one gets damaged. The multiple sizes also came in handy when I ran into some wire issues in the build; if I went by the "buy only what I planned" route I would have been screwed and I would need to buy more wires.

My part list:


ST-R9071 Dura-Ace Di2 STI 2x11 Speed (Brake Shifter)
SW-R9160 Dura-Ace Di2 TT Bar End Shifters (Pair) (1 Button, plug)
Ultegra Di2 R8050 11 Speed Front Mech
Ultegra Di2 R8050 11 Speed Rear Mech
Dura-Ace Di2 9070 2 Port TT Handlebar Junction Box
DI2 Cable W/ Junction B (4 pack cables + 1 Junction B) X2
EW-JC130 B Junction Wire
DI2 Wireless Unit
Battery (Shimano BT-DN110 Di2 Battery)
Battery Charger (Shimano BT-DN110 Di2 Battery)
Assorted DI2 grommets (4 oval, 4 round)


Also for my upgrade, I got
Bontrager Mono Plug
Enve TT Extensions


I did not opt to get the carbon seat post for the Speed Cocnept; yest it comes with a "DI2" mount... but you can actually stuff the internal battery in the aluminum seatpost and save $300! Plus I like the aluminum seat post as I can use my bike stand with it. The carbon one would require another stand... and more $$$

Unfortunately I made a few boo-boos when I bought this all. First, I wanted the 2 button ST-R9071 Dura-Ace DI2 brake levers over the newer single button brake sifters. I assumed they came with female DI2 cable attachments but... well... it comes with male cable attachments. So... I bought a B junction 3 piece wire (EW-JC130) for the brake shifters and as a result, I lacked the junction B box to make this work the way I planned. Fortunately I was conservative in ordering the wire lengths and I was able to use the junction B wire to connect to the front shifter and the Junction A. I might go and buy one more Junction B box for the front to allow me to take the front apart a bit easier. The B junction EW-JC130 wire is baarely enough to get this all wired up. I plan to cut the aero extensions a bit as well so this would make it less of an issue, but I would prefer being able to take apart the front end without worrying about the EW-JC130 wire configuration.

The biggest PITA was trying to get the drive side BB out. The shield+bb had basically no room for my Park Tool BB remover to grasp the BB. I ended up having to shim the Park Tool open which allowed my to take the BB out eventually. Not a huge fan of the design but otherwise I did not encounter any notable disassembly hiccups.

All in all, with taking this thing apart, installing DI2, inspecting all the parts, putting it back together and indexing ect. it took around 12-15 hours- I took my time but I made sure each bolt was greased again, cleaned the parts and basically did an entire rebuild of the bike. Cable routing was not too big of an issue- I followed the existing Mech cables and made a few DIY wire cable tools. One of them came in handy for the battery as well. I bought 2 cheap shifting cables and glued a magnet to each side. Then I could route them from both sides and connect them in the middle, and tape the cable to one guide and pull it through. I still have to purchase a new brake cable for the front and a screw for the brake cover as it seems to be almost stripped. Fortunately its trainer season for the next 4-5 months at least so no need for those parts! I am also really happy I took the whole thing apart. Not only do I know everything about this bike, but I got a chance to clean those hard to reach places and apply some TLC to them. I do not know how detailed your LBS will be on cleaning the bike, but there is something to say about getting at every single screw and bolt. I also understand why you might want to spend some $$$ to make someone else do it... it can be a PITA. However its totally worth it imo.

I was able to hide the DI2 Junction A box in the extensions. I was worried about having to file down the internal bar diameter and also the Junction A box but the bars actually came with the internal diameter shaved down from the factory. I guess the ENVE Aero Extensions are "ready" for this whole project from the get go. From what I could read online, there was a few manufactures that seemed to make sure the ID of the bars fir the Junction A box, but in the end its hit and miss. I was lucky I had to do no work, but I was ready to sand that sucker down if required. The outer "holder" for the Junction A box had to be sanded down as the Speed Concept aerobar mount got in the way. I filed down the outer frame for the A box by around 30-45% and it fits perfectly now. I plan to cut around 20mm of the aerobar so I can bring them back a bit. Right now they are a tad bit long, but they are a HUGE improvement on the "Ergo" Bontrager SC bars. I can actually get fully stretched out now and my shoulder is much happier.

I'll add some pics of my DI2 build once I figure out how to upload them. Let me know if you have any questions

https://imgur.com/a/vN5BvtY

Slight diversion. If you've only got the single-button shifters (either aero only and/or plus single brake levers), you're committed to (full) synchro only right? My question then is, what use are the gearing modes on the Junction A box? Or do they become redundant at that point?

Oh good question! I havnt had a chance to completely screw around with it but the answer is no, you are not only allowed to use synchro. You can assign for example the FD changes to the brake buttons and the aero buttons to activate the Rd for example. You can also assign weird combos like fd for the left shifters and Rd for the right shifters and whatever combo you want.

To piggyback on this, cool thing I found was that I can do full synchro with the single buttons and since I got the older di2 brake lever, I can change the FD with the extra button!! It's awesome! So happy I went with the older button. I duno why they started going single button only. Now I can go synchro only, synchro with the FD control (my favorite, likely gonna stick with this especially since I live near the mountains) or doing some funky single button shifting wizardry.

You can also set different modes to the junction a from my understanding. Again I have not had a ton of time with it but for example, if you had a shallow rim and different cassett type, you could have a specific setting to run that setup. Then when you go deep rim and tighter cassette type, you might want it to synchro shift at a different gear ratio (in stead of cross chain switching at say 2 gears left, you can switch at 3 left, so your like 1-8 into 2-3 instead of 1-9 into 2-2 if that makes sense).

Unfortunately my Fenix 5 watch dosnt seem to pair with the di2 controls so I need a dedicated bike computer to do screen switching and such :(

Wow, really? So even though full synchro you don't have FD control, you 'could' set it up such that single aero + single brake button acts like defacto two-button, thus giving you semi-synchro functionality, that is both cool and wierd!


Right, I could see that being useful, for my personal setup (in the process of upgrading to Di2), I could see me perhaps having different (full synchro) gearing modes for outside riding, and then riding on the indoor trainer.

Well I should clarify, I have a 2 button brake shifter so I have the option of running full synchro with FD control. I thought I would have to give it up if I went full synchro. That is not the case. However, I think you COULD set it up so the aero buttons control rear derailure and single brakes control front derailure only, which would give you FD control. However, you need to shift from the aero bars which kinda defeats the purpose of the di2 :/

Gets even weirder becuase you could set the FD shift up to be like left aero button and Rd down to be left brake and make it all screwed up lol!

Yeah the only thing is you need to select your gear range prior to riding a new cassett setup, so if your going from a say 11-23 to 12-28 or whatever you need to use the app. At least that's what I understand. I don't think you can do say function 1 to be your cassette 1 and function 2 to be cassette 2 on the junction a box. You need to do that on the app or computer. Don't quote me on that though, as I only screwed around with this for a few days.
Someone more experienced might be able to confirm this

"The FD has a little plastic cover that routes the cable behind it to keep it from hitting the wheel. (This is not shown in my FD pictures.) Don’t forget this little piece."

Hey what's up. I cant seem to figure out where this piece goes. There is also a little silver piece, is that used at all? Do you have a pic? Or can you explain where it fits? Thanks!

You can see both in this picture... The silver sticker sticks on the frame, behind the derailleur hanger bracket and is what the "support bolt" contacts when you adjust it. The purpose of the support bolt is to maintain the FD's angle when shifting. The silver thing protects the frame.

This also exposed how dirty my bike is. I need to give it a very good cleaning.

Got the plastic thing! I understand where the metal piece goes, but I dont see a support bolt. Am I missing that or will I see it when I take it off?

Check out page 39 in the Shimano Di2 installation manual. Out-of-the-box, that screw is fully retracted within the FD. After you install and align the FD, you extend that screw until it just touches the sticker you stuck on the frame.

http://si.shimano.com/.../DM-R8050-02-ENG.pdf

The support bolt also called the 'rotation angle screw' (see here for reference)





The metal thing (Frame protector), is only absolutely necessary when the rotation angle screw contacts carbon. In the felt example shown here, it looks like the rotation angle screw contacts the aluminum front derailleur plate, so the frame protector isn't of much benefit.

Thank you!!!

This is one of those I don't know what I don't know questions. I have a 10 speed Felt DA with Enve 10 speed 6.7 wheels. I'd love to upgrade to di2 but I'm at a loss as to whether it's necessary to upgrade to 11 speed at the same time. If I stick with 10 speed would the parts list change?

I don't know either. The first question is "what makes a Di2 behave as 10 speed... is it a configuration setting in the SW or is it a least common denominator component?" I do not think it is a SW configuration setting. Therefore, my hunch is that if you install a 10 speed RD, the system identifies as 10 speed and the whole thing works as 10 speed.

If you stick with Ultegra 10 speed Di2, a lot of the parts could be the same or similar. For example, you could buy the older 10 speed FD and RD, but all the rest could probably be the latest.

On the other hand, your only 10 speed stuff on the bike would be the cassette and chainrings. If your Enve wheels could accept an 11 speed cassette or could be converted to 11 speed, there would be very little difference in trying to keep it all 10 speed versus upgrading to 11 speed.

Thanks, a 11 speed conversion might be the way to go. I know Chris King has a 11 speed conversion kit (for $309). I'll look to see if there's a cheaper workaround...I know DarkSpeedWorks has a workaround. I've been running Powertap C1 chainrings...I'm guessing they're 11 speed compatible...need to verify.

One workaround to consider is use of an 11 speed 11-34 HG-800 cassette which are designed such that they still fit on a 10 speed hub. That can get you along until you can upgrade your wheel to 11 speed.

See this article for more details: https://cyclingtips.com/...34t-cassette-review/

Thanks, that’s certainly an option if my derailleur could handle the 34. I’ll probably just end up biting the bullet and get the CK conversion kit...looks like it’s $346 + another $20 to redish the wheel...cheaper than buying a new wheel.

Can you not just buy an 11spd cassette and have 1.8x mm machined off the back? That's what loads of people have done with great success. Should be pretty inexpensive

I’ve gone through the whole topic and it’s helped me a lot in installing my own Di2 groupset. For now I’ve gone without the Bluetooth interface, so only way of adjusting the system is via the laptop. There are some things that I’m struggling with a bit:

- I have the single button shifters, so stuck with full synchro. However to get this to function properly working I have to set the buttons have to be set to either shift the RD up or down. Can this be done differently?

- if all buttons are set for shifting the RD, how do I make adjustments on the FD without using a laptop?

I'm glad it was of help, this whole thread was extremely helpful to me and even though I have since sold the bike on a sexy upgrade, knowing how to build the bike up and understanding the Di2 inside and out really helps trouble shooting and doing maintenance in the future.

To be quite honest with you, the bluetooth really only helps me with the data for my Garmin and if I am in a pinch I can whip out the phone and fiddle with the settings, but the computer is like 100x more easy to calibrate and screw around with. The Etube software sucks at least on android and it can crash, which can brick the entire system. TBH just use the hard connection to the computer to do your setting changes if you can.

Yes you are stuck with synchro unless you want to say configure one of the brake buttons to do something else, but tbh synchro is basically the only logical choice for you. TBH on a TT bike its really nice and I only see myself missing the FD control on the weird climbs, which are more location dependent than anything else. For a race scenario the synchro is all you need, the BT helps you know when the FD shift is coming up (but you can anticipate it as well if you are experienced with gearing). You can configure any button however you want though, but with only 4 buttons, 1 on each extension and 2 hands, shifting is really your only option.

Read the Shimano Manual (theres a FD guide to adjustments). I believe the computer is the easiest where you just click to "configure/adjust FD" or something on the computer app and it will let you do it automatically. Otherwise I believe you can use the junction box by doing some button pressing, but I forget as its been a while since I did it; its in the manual. TBH though via the computer is the most simple way, just make sure the FD is installed correctly (lined up and all set wrt bolts being tight) prior to adjustment via computer. Once set its basically set and forget.