Got another question for you. I'm actually nearing piecing out a Di2 upgrade kit for my Tri bike (Felt B12 actually, previous gen that was the last of the threaded bottom brackets). I was wondering which rubber Di2 frame grommets you put on your IA16...circular (GM01) or oval (GM02). Not completely sure on which one to get honestly. I'm thinking the oval but still have to figure out what kind of battery I want to use (have an extra external I could use but still mulling going internal). Besides my battery situation I only require wires and however many Junction B's to finish the kit.

I used a generic round grommet up front and the Felt-branded round grommet for the RD. I have no idea what they are, though. My Bike Shop provided the FD grommet (definitely was not Felt). And, I got the RD from my LBS where I bought the bike.

I cant say for sure what the size is on the B12, but my IA has the larger holes for front and rear derailleuers. I used Shimano SM-GM02 for both. The Felt cone shape in the rear just didnt work well for my bike, the SM-GM02 has a good angle to it.

SM-GM01 I think is for 6mm holes, the SM-GM02 fit 7-8mm holes.

Your list is gold!!!!

Thank you for this thread. If you did not do the Bar end junction A EW-RS910 what would have been the other option? I am not sure this will work as a option on a trek speed concept.

---

2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

Yeah, Trek hides the extension bar ends... If I did not (or could not) use the bar end Junction A, then I would have done a standard 5-port Junction A up front.

So, I would have ditched:

• Bar-end Junction A EW-RS910
• Junction B 4-port SM-JC41
• Cable Brakes-B1 EW-JC130-SM
• Cable Extension-A 400mm
• Cable A-B1 200mm
  

And, I would have replaced it with the following parts and home-run connected each of the brakes & shifters directly to the 5-port Junction A.

• Junction A 5-Port SM-EW90-B
• Cable Extension-B1 500mm
• Left Brake eTube cable (measured to length)
• Right Brake eTube cable (measured to length)

Here are a couple different views from the underside. I drilled the holes between the clamping area of the Tririg brackets. I could have also drilled the exit holes on the rearward end, close to where the wires clip into the spacers.

How much you spent total on your di2?

Hello All -

A little off topic, but I am looking to upgrade my Cervelo P2 from 105 to Ultegra Di2 this winter. However, I cannot find a Shimano TT/Tri Ultegra Groupset online anywhere. Everything out there seems to be road bike focused (i.e. I do not need the road bike brake levers, I need the base bar ones). Do you have to buy each Di2 component individually? I usually buy my stuff online from Merlin. Any suggestions to make purchasing what I need easier (and cheaper as a groupset) is greatly appreciated!

---

"The first virtue in a soldier is endurance of fatigue; courage is only the second virtue."
- Napoleon Bonaparte

Your dilemma is one of the reasons that led me to post this along with the detailed parts list. Since there are no TT upgrade kits offered, you have to do your own research and buy the parts individually.

Try calling My Bike Shop. He put together this package for me and helped verify that it would all work. His price was very close to buying the cheapest I could find from several of the European shops. I am much happier having bought everything from a US shop that can help me if I need it.

Sounds good - I will try them!

---

"The first virtue in a soldier is endurance of fatigue; courage is only the second virtue."
- Napoleon Bonaparte

Which kit? I've already upgrade my road bike and nearly completed piecing together a kit for my TT bike (home stretch on this one with all the major parts and now need little bits).

Road Bike - $660 total (combo of 6870/9070 parts but went with a Bluetooth compatible external battery mount which I really didn't need because after riding around discovered I prefer manual shifting on my road bike so won't run Syncro....I do have the WU111 wireless unit still sitting in the box...will be returning it I think so I could've save some $ going with a previous gen battery mount instead). - So I could've save $120 in hindsight with how I pieced together my kit.

Tri - just under $660 so far but still require 3-4 more wires and some frame internal routing grommets (and most likely some new brake cables while I'm at it). Costs would be cheaper if I went external battery (ended up with 2 buying my kit for my road bike) but opted for a internal battery instead to hide it somewhere in the bike (don't have a Di2 ready frame for my Tri bike). That added some more costs to buy both the internal battery and the special charger for it (could've save $140 or so if I stuck with external battery on this bike too). Combo of 6870 parts and 9071 basebar shifter/brake levers) with a SC-MT800 Junction A Combo/wireless unit (and display).

Those totals so far are actual money paid including cashback rewards/deals factored in. But it doesn't include the cost offsets from selling my take off mechanical bits (already sold my road shift group and will eventually sell my TT shift group parts when I take those off). For both kits I've patiently been shopping around for mostly used parts on the best deals/prices I could find. Most of it on eBay, either winning auctions that went for way low in my favor, finding the right "buy it now" offers and a few hard to get hot items timed just right (aka in stock with certain sellers) with those eBay 15% or 20% off coupon sales that seem to be available at the end of the month to boost "sales numbers". Plus using credit card rewards and referral sites cashback rewards to the fullest advantage when I could (haven't added it up separately to get an exact number probably save me a $100 extra between both kits).

I honestly don't need Di2 but just have a problem always shopping for bike part upgrades...I always gotta have a project going on it seems and just can't be happy with what I got (always looking for what's next to do/try out).

Hi
What size bike is your IA16 ?

What did you do when the wires where to short ?

I have a Size 54 IA 16.

In general, you are hosed if your cables are short. The cost of a 2-port junction and short cable is likely greater than just buying a new correctly sized cable and tossing the old one.

I had mis-measured my extension cables slightly (I did not factor the actual routing when I measured), one was barely long enough. I eventually ordered another 50mm-longer cable for the one that was almost too short.

What size RD did you get? I also have a felt ia 16

I think this depends on what cassette you are running. I am actually doing a DI2 upgrade on my SC Gen 2 right now and this whole thread has helped a ton!

Will report back!

Ditto what Dream said... I got a short cage RD, because the biggest cassette I will ever likely run is a 28 tooth.

Not really anything to do with di2, but I'm basically building up my ia16 almost identically to what it appears you've done on your's. Ordered the tri rig alpha x with one omega brake yesterday. I believe you changed out the front for sure. Did you swap out the rear brake as well? Did you go with the omega there too? I want sure that was the best option. Seems like the magnetic cover and everything is unnecessary and easily jarred loose in the rear. Not a fan of the stock brake, but unsure what to switch to.

I put the Omega X on the back of mine too. The other very good option is a Shimano Ultegra direct mount brake. I chose the Omega X because it has the center pull for the easiest cable routing.

The magnetic cover is no problem at all. It is certainly overkill for a rear brake, but it is not a weakness. I have ridden over some very rough stuff that tossed all my bottles, and the cover has never come loose.

As far as I understand the "cover coming off" thing is the custom cover used for the Omni front end, not the stock one that comes with the caliper. As a point of reference, I have one next to my bottom bracket on my P4, hanging upside down, and the cover just hangs on for the ride. No problem.

---

Citizen of the world, former drunkard. Resident Traumatic Brain Injury advocate.

I've got a mechanical Giant Trinity coming on Tuesday. I have 90% of the bits already to convert to di2. I'm liking the bar end junction idea, will definitely be looking to do something similar with mine to avoid filling the bento with a normal A junction. Will wait till the bike arrives first to see how feasible it is.

Thanks for the detailed guide, no doubt I'll be back on this page again!

Thanks for the responses. Just getting started and trying to consume all this info, shopping around online for some of the best deals, we'll see how it goes.

A couple of questions:

I have the same bike and want to do the same thing except I won't be doing di2 on the brakes, just extensions. Does this mean I dont need the EW-JC130-SM?

I know Junction B1 is inside the alpha x, but Where do you house the EW-WU11?

Also what tip do you use on your dremel when smoothing out the EW-RS910 and aero extensions? I have PD 50a aluminum.

Thanks

Correct, if you are not doing brake shifters, then you do not need teh EW-JC130-SM cable.

The EW-WU11 just fits in-line with the cables. It is not much larger diameter than the cable plug. Mine is resting above my stem bolt as the cable passes from the basebar into the frame.

I cannot remember if I used a drum sander or one of the cylinder-shaped high-speed cutters. For aluminum, you would probably have to use a high-speed cutter, if needed at all. Carbon has thicker walls than aluminum, so your extensions may not need anything.

Thanks for the response. I've read this thread many times and watched many videos and its starting to sink in, ha. I priced out most everything on competitve cyclist, Ebay, and bike discount. It's coming out a lot higher than I anticipated. Without the brake shifter and the jc130, which I'm not using, I'm at $1100. That seems way high to me, I thought I'd be getting some kind of deal in black fri/cyber Monday. Also, on this thread I read 600-700, does this cost sound right to y'all?

If you are looking for the current R8050 generation of Di2, then $1,100 is probably about right. I shopped all the best prices very hard, and I was around $1,500 (with a few minor DA extras and the brake shifters). I think that my absolute lowest was a little under $1,400 if I bought from four different European shops.

I have not priced the prior gen 6800 Ultegra, but you might find that for around $1K. No way you will find it for $600-700 unless you are getting used stuff.