Squirt looks great.

But to get the most out of it I think you're going to have to strip your Ultegra chain, assuming you've been using non-wax lubes on it. For wax, I don't think there's any way around the stripping stage (to get the most benefit).

If you don't want to strip a good strategy would be to buy one of the wildly expensive boutique chains then relube with Squirt as needed.

I've just been waxing all of mine. It's easy once you get set up. If you don't like the teflon powder post-treatment, don't use it. Squirt is fine lube and nearly as fast.

It looks like both of those companies are basically doing the Friction Facts treatment. A mix of moly and teflon in plain wax, with a teflon treatment after. But maybe ICE is doing something different with their post-treatment because my waxed chains look clean with nothing on them, nothing like this:

I have used ICED chains. One of my favorite things is that I clean my chain rings before flying out - my cassette is a race day cassette so it is already clean. Since the chain is ICED it has no gunk and picks up no gunk. Anyone that knows me knows I like a clean bike and dealing with greasy hands and a dirty chain is just one less thing to worry about, especially when you have someone that is kind of enough to invite you into their house, the last thing I want is to look like I am a dirty mess. Highly recommend them. My roommate uses a UFO chain, as does a training partner here in town. It seems like a great option as well.

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What chain and lube is that?

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That's an ICED chain in that pic.

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I will say though, the "ice" rubs off quite easily if in touches anything. I have no idea how this affects the ride or claimed watts savings but it took me by surprise .

The ice on the exterior is supposed to rub off, it is the pins and rollers where you want the ice. They tested TJs chain I believe post IMAZ and it tested very well if I recall and that was a rainy day.

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For those that wax chains, which masterlink do you use? I am assuming you re-use it at least a few times.

What are all the materials you need to perform this at home for yourself? I read in a thread somewhere where you (if I recall correctly) laid out all the items needed. I've begun purchasing these for my own personal use and so far I've gotten:

• 2qt Slow Cooker
• 2L Ultrsonic Cleaner
• Simple Green HD
• PTFE Teflon Powder
• Paraffin Wax (Clear)

For some reason I thought there was another item on the list that I'm missing here but I could be wrong.

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"Train so you have no regrets @ the finish line"

ICE Chain - $145 http://rustersports.com/product/icefriction/
Ceramic Speed Chain - $139 http://www.trisports.com/...himano-10-speed.html

I'm still on a 10 speed bike. The Ceramic Speed chain is appealing because of the USAT discount.

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Check this out if you are waxing your own chain. https://moltenspeedwax.com/

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They write it as if you bought their wax though .... I'm looking to make my own MOLTEN WAX, not purchase it. I read that somebody on here had done the same and I thought it was rruff but I could be mistaken. I also think I have found the missing item

MoS2 Powder was the other item in the recipe if memory serves me

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"Train so you have no regrets @ the finish line"

What is the USAT discount? If you want you can always request a 20% off one from me for Trisports. They expire at the end of 2016 so you have all year to use one. Just pm if ever interested.

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It's the discount code on the back of your USAT card. 15% off

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gulf wax, moly powder and teflon.

I do all my own now... I figure if it lasts 300-400mi between each coat (and I coat a few at a time) it's costing me around $.50 per coating (if you count chemicals to remove everything from the chain between coats... some guys get away with just dropping the used coat back in, but in that case you'll dirty the pot a lot faster so it's probably a wash.) most annoying part is waiting on the slow cooker to heat up. ( I bought a $10 one at Wal-Mart...)

For non-race chains I skip the final coating of teflon as it does make a bit of a mess. Also the first few miles you shouldn't adjust your derailleur (it will shift like crap until the links break free) and you'll throw excess wax for the first ~10mi. Not alot, but a bit.

Your drivetrain will be sparkly though.

I've also used Squirt (before I diy'd) and it is good if a bit nastier than other lubes I've used in the past.

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Like I said, the photo is an ICE chain. Looks a mess if you ask me.

I use the one the chain comes with and keep reusing it til the chain is dead.

Ceramic Speed is 200 miles and ICE is 600 miles. Decisions....

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Any real world data for time savings from these chains versus a regular new chain that is cleaned and lubed?

There is an entire collection of reports showcasing that these method is proven to be more efficient

https://www.friction-facts.com/test-results-overview

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"Train so you have no regrets @ the finish line"

l should be getting my ICED chain this week! A lot of my teammate used them before we partnered with them with great feedback. I am going to run the same thing as Thomas and use a race only cassette which will keep the lifespan to the upper limit. Even if it only gets half of the claimed 9 watts that is still a good amount for relatively cheap. Well not cheap but worth it I think! My teammate did tell me he took his chain off any time he had to rack his bike over night to keep the moisture off.

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• 2qt Slow Cooker
• 2L Ultrsonic Cleaner
• Simple Green HD
• PTFE Teflon Powder
• Paraffin Wax (Clear)

My setup is $10 1000W hotplate. Much faster than slowcooker, but you need to make sure you don't overheat.
Stainless dog dish. Easy to pop out old wax to scrape dirt off the bottom.
Gulf Wax from Walmart. Think it was $2.20/lb last I bought it.
IR thermometer.
No ultrasonic cleaner. I use the Molton protocol on new chains and don't clean them after that.
No moly or teflon. I figure they will settle to the bottom of the pan with the dirt anyway, and Friction Facts reported very marginal gains from using them.

Wipe chain off with alcohol, take it off the bike and hang it on the dipping wire to dry.
Fire up the hotplate on low.
5 minutes later stick chain in molten wax.
5 minutes later, check that temperature is ~200-220F. Wax melts at ~140F but I like it hotter so the wax will run off easily and leave the chain clean and free of residue.
Pull out the chain and and wipe it off with a folded paper towel, then hang it up to cool.
Dip the quick link in the wax and take it out to cool.
5 minutes later, put the chain back on the bike or store it if you are rotating chains. If you wait too long the chain will be very stiff.
Remove wax bowl from hotplate after it has cooled.

I'm lazy, and this is easy, cheap, and effective. I redo a chain after ~200 miles but I'm sure they'd last longer. Haven't bothered testing it.

BTW, if you can't stand a "dry" sounding chain, then waxing isn't for you.

I don't really believe the ICE claims. I know their watt savings are bogus (comparing to absolute worst case) and in dry conditions most people report getting >500 miles out of a waxed chain before it squeaks.

What do you mean it's bogus? Have you seen data?

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