Even if it only gets half of the claimed 9 watts that is still a good amount for relatively cheap.

Compared to plain old wax, you might gain 1W.

I saw that too. But does that take into account chain wear and even a little bit of gunk? I ALWAYS clean/lube my chain before races but am never sure if I am getting it 100% ready. Either way, it'll be a nice piece of mind to have a race only chain, I know I could get a spare, but it won't have the cool ICE on it!

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As I recall these are broken in, thoroughly cleaned, and thoroughly lubed. Velonews also compared used/dirty chains in the first test and I think the wax fared the best in that as well (least degradation).

Here is a newer test: http://www.squirtlube.com/.../VeloNews2014-01.pdf

Ahh ok. I use Rock N Roll based off that chart so I guess I will just have to wait and see! And who knows, maybe I will get some placebo effect on top of any gained watts! Those are just as good.

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I ditched Rock N Roll for Squirt lube

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Molten Speed Wax sells the YNB master links. Each one can be reused 5 times and they work on any chain.

I wax my chains using the Molten Speed wax and then use the wax-based Squirt lube between waxing. Easy, fast, clean and effective. I will never use a petroleum based lube again.

I just ordered another bottle of Squirt lube from Trisports.com. No more grease on my hands or legs!

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I wondered; Good to know- thanks for the info!

Should I just lube my chain with Squirt lube or buy the Ceramic Speed chain? Hrmmm....one is much cheaper than the other.

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Depends on how much your time is worth to you. The difference between Squirted chain and CD in therms of friction isn't huge, but the price is. With Squirt you'll have to degrease the chain yourself and with CS you just put it on.

Thomas,

What is appealing about the ICE chain is the fact it can be re-treated later. Did you like your ICE chain?

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Would be nice to have one less hassle..

Pre last -race i cleaned chain and casette as spotless as I could get them (using unleaded gasoline as that was the best degreaser I could find while at IMSA), then applied Squirt. But after the race the chain feels a bit sticky, almost like it has a thin coating of glue, not sure it is normal? Does teflon help lube effect stay longer?

And at least the claimed lasting effect of 600 miles as opposed to 200 for ceramic

I love my ICE chain and will be running a new one for Wildflower. My old one is on the way back to ICE to be re-coated and tested. I hear good things about the UFO chain as well but I have never used one.

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I ordered the ICE chain today to use at Ironman 70.3 Raleigh!

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I just switched over to Squirt at the recommendation of my LBS and paid them to clean my drivetrain for the conversion. I can't tell if they did a thorough job as it seems like there is a lot of black gunk still on the chain and the pulleys. What should I use to clean it further?

Then they didn't really clean your drivetrain. I'd get some Park Tool degreaser and make them redo it.

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Acetone is the single best option, if you are really lazy you can grab some brake cleaner from the auto parts store which is just acetone in a can. To really remove all lubricants you need a strong organic solvent, acetone is the cheapest and safest option.

I would recommend mineral spirits. To really clean your chain will require removal. See the directions that Moltenspeed wax recommends ahead of waxing a chain. Getting factory grease out of a chain is a challenge.

Just wondering...did anyone tried automatic transmission oil to lube their chain?
It's a little thinner but still oily.

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-shoki

Yeah, it makes me think it would have been cheaper and faster to just buy a new chain for $30...or do new chains have to be cleaned as well prior to a wax based lube?

Any major arguments for using mineral spirits versus acetone? Can I wipe down the chain and pulleys with a soaked rag or does the chain need to be soaked in the solution? The shop told me that they were going to soak the chain in mineral spirits but I'm not sure if they did.

Question for the group- I dont have a race chain / cassette and most of my drivetrain is fairly new (last couple months). Id be interested in exploring these options, but I dont want to do so before my race this weekend. I was planning on de-greasing and lubing the setup in the next day. Would that be the best plan of attack? Is there a lube that is better than another?

Thanks!

Based on my (llimited) experience I would soak it to degrease it. I use parafin as my chain cleaner - cheap, great cleaner, won't corrode stuff if left to soak in it and I figured any residue it leaves wouldn't have a detrimental effect on the parafin based waxes.

I did a new dura ace / xtr chain for my mtb, let it dry and then lubed it with slick. It ran 'clean' immediately.

My tri bike came with campag and the chain was joined so I left it on the bike and cleaned it 'very' thourghly with parafin and then lubed it with slick. It ran dirty after 40 ish miles. That repeated upto about 300 miles when it then started to run cleaner.

It's one of two things - either the factory applied campag lube is very tenacious and the shimano stuff is crap or the soak is by far the best method for cleaning / prepping the chain ...

WD :-)

You need to remove all the lube from a new chain.





Acetone is incredibly flammable and also quickly absorbed into unprotected skin. I would never use it over mineral spirits.




The chain needs to be removed and vigorously shaken, stirred or vibrated within the mineral spirits. Some ues an ultrasonic cleaner. I go through several changes of fluid in the course of a deep clean.




Hugh

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Genetics load the gun, lifestyle pulls the trigger.

New or old chains both need to be soaked and agitated to get the factory lube out. The Moltenspeedwax site I mentioned above gives you the extreme clean version. Using a plastic jug helps because you can shake the chain around in the solution. They do multiple phases using mineral spirits and finish with denatured alcohol. For Squirt I would recommend at least one round with the mineral spirits. Soaking alone doesn't get everything out of the links.

On the other posters question of factory lube veracity, Friction Facts testing showed that from the factory Shimano chains exhibited the least amount of friction. This might indicate their lube was the lightest. Once factory lubes were removed there was t much difference in chain performance ahead of relube.