DFW_Tri wrote:
Makes sense. I think it’s a lot like bike gearing in that each rower sort of ends of self-selecting the most effective level/spms for them individually after lots of tinkering. Each boat ultimately self selects the best spm to maximize its speed—that is not be the same for each boat.
Since this is just a fun workout, there’s certainly nothing wrong with tinkering with higher/lower levels in different sessions (or within a session) provided your technique is lookin good with one caveat-especially for you since you have back issues (I think?)....this may be obvious to say, but a higher setting will put more strain on your back and if your technique isn’t where it should be that could lead to bigger issues.
Thanks. When I try setting 8-10 its for a very short period. Typically < 500m and I am not pushing hard. I am trying to hold good form at a low cadence/high force. I am treating that as part of rehab for lumbar spine gradually putting more load on it, but doing it at an aerobic effort (at least staying way below V02). If I push below 1:50 down to 1:45 per 500m then I can only do that for a short duration. I believe 1:45 equates to 300W. When I was racing tris well my FTP was around 260W so that gives you an idea of how hard 1:45 is.
2:00 = 202W
1:55 = 230W
1:50 = 262W
So if I go at 8-10 its for 500m or so at 2:00 to 2:05 range. I feel this is a good range where my muscles are far from aerobic distress and I can maintain form. Like most sports you get injured when you go near your redline and your muscles are all tight and on the verge of misfiring because you can't get enough oxygen to them.
I treat the level 10 setting like "hills-speed" running. Run uphill at an aerobic pace. Then you run downhill fast with high turnover and high stride length, but since you're going downhill you are not in aerobic distress and your legs can do the motion well.