Don't have a study for you, but I have to think it's the Speedplay Aero Zero Titanium pedals that would win this one handily.

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Too old to go pro but doing it anyway
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Watt savings can come from aerodynamics, weight or friction. In terms of friction I'm not aware of there being any significant differences between pedal systems. Weight is self explanatory... less weight is better but weight will not contribute as much in the whole.

Aerodynamics can be a factor - the new Speedplay Aero can save a few watts (4-5) depending on the position / angle of your foot. Look for lower stack in general.

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What's your CdA?

I didnt take the aero aspect into my thinking, i was thinking more about the friction from the bearings......but that does add a new aspect to which pedals are faster.....thank you

Any aero differences are going to make magnitudes more difference than friction differences, at least in pedals. And then q-factor and stack differences are going to make more difference in aero than the aero-ness of the pedals themselves. On every single one of these fronts though, Speedplay Aero Zero titanium wins. They're not cheap but if you want gains, those are the ones.

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Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
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Good info here:

http://www.ero-sports.com/...lay-zero-aero-pedals

Wasn't the pedal spindle length different between the tested pedals in this test? Could account for most of the aero differences when legs are closer to frame.

Somewhat off topic, but since we're talking Speedplay pedals........I've been tempted by the aero gains, but worry about unintended biomechanical consequences of making a change to a contact point. With that in mind, can you comment on Speedplay from a user perspective? Do they "fit and feel" differently than a Shimano pedal?

Scott

Yes, I think Shimano feel a bit more secure. That being said, I have speedplay on all my bikes. The stack height is minimally different from the 9100 pedal to the Speedplay. Cleats are about 4 times the price for speedplay, but tend to last a long time. Depending on your foot position there may or may not be an aero advantage. Flat footed pedalling style, probably some gains. Toes down, little if any.

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Heath Dotson
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does anyone know if there is any info out there that shows which pedals consume the least amount of watts....ive become somewhat obsessed with marginal gains in my cycling since listening to a certain podcast. thanks in advance for any and all advice


There are probably some decent savings from staying on top of pedal wear and tear, and replacing cleats when worn out. I don't go out of my way to look at cyclists/triathletes cleats, but many of the ones I do see are terribly and badly worn!! Start there - get the 95% right before fiddling with the 5%

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Steve Fleck @stevefleck | Blog

good advice, i was thinking of going with the low float cleats to try and maximize what little watts i can produce

good advice, i was thinking of going with the low float cleats to try and maximize what little watts i can produce


Everyone is a little different, and like many things on a bike this is very individual. I've always used Look pedals/cleats. Grey cleats so just a little bit of float. Never had any issues. I replace when I start to get ANY sort of movement in the cleat/pedal interface other than the normal side to side movement.

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Steve Fleck @stevefleck | Blog

I switched from Shimano pedals to the Speedplay Aero Zero back in July and my biggest advice would be to make sure you match up the cleats and float closely and ideally by your bike fitter. About 4 weeks after switching to Speedplay I developed gastrocnemius tendonitis due to the increased float(Even though I reduced it a bit but not enough) and my cleat position being a touch different. I've got it all figured out now and love them but cost me about 6 weeks of running and hard bike workouts.

I'm very into my aero gains, I've prob got just about everything bar wind tunnel as there's none where I live.

This year I added titanium speedplay aeros. I didn't quite believe the aero gains as my foot is angled, but I did believe the slight weight savings, preferred looks and also wanted to try the feel as there are a lot of top pros using them.

About 2 weeks ago, I switched back to my shimano pedals and am very happy I did so.

Hard to put a tangible backup on it but summed as follows
- absolute bitch to snap in and out of for me despite changing few times etc.
- way too much float and not easy to reduce (those tiny adjusters are not durable)
- due to extra float, seemed to upset my q factor a bit and just felt I wasnt as powerful. Data also seemed to agree.
- just didn't prefer the feel of them.
- the screws for cleats are not durable and still now I've a small screw rounded in one of my shoes.

Now I love my aero gear, but this is the first mod I've actually removed.

Proceed with caution.

Absolutely look the bomb.
Is real weight savings.
Not as suitable or practical in my opinion.
Require more maintenance. Perhaps works for the pros as they have guys cleaning all their gear more I dunno.

BTW, whilst many of the top pro triathletes use them, very few of top cyclists use them for some reason....

Great feedback, glad I asked!

Scott

Very good info, thanks. too much float and flakiness does not interest me. I may pass on speedplays.

The updated look keo blade with titanium spindles and ceramic bearings seem like a happy medium choice.

I also changed since a year from Shimano SPD-SL to speedplay zero aero, did not experience any problems but indeed the snapping in was a bit difficult. After treating with dry lube that problem was solved though.

My advice: take rather steel axles than titanium ones: generally the titanium axles have the same geometry as the steel ones, but steel is stiffer than titanium. A tiny weight advantage does not excuse the problems you might get with less stiffer axles (quicker bearing wear e.g) unless Speedplay thought about this and dimensioned the axles such that the titanium one is stiff enough to not have disadvantages compared to the steel ones.

On the other hand, most people who use them have none of these problems, or only have them at the very start if they install them badly and are perfectly happy thereafter.
I won't argue that Speedplay don't require slightly more maintenance, but it's still pretty minor. I think the cleat mounting screws cause problems for some first time users who over-tighten the screws which makes it very hard to clip in and out. They are sensitive to too much torque. I had that problem for my first 2 rides with them back around 2011 when I first tried them. I backed off the screws a touch, and I've been loving them for 7 or 8 years now on all 3 of my bikes.
I can't understand how anyone could strip screw heads on the cleat screws since they are only meant to be tightened to pretty low torque in the first place. I wonder was the cause of the damaged screw the same as the cause of difficult engagement? i.e. hugely excessive mounting screw torque.
I've never had problems with the float adjusters but then I just set them when I fit the cleats and rarely touch them after that. How often do you need to adjust float? With most systems you can't even if you wanted to but Speedplays system works just fine.

Legitimate reason's not to use Speedplay in my opinion:

• Cost
• Minor maintenance needed (5mins twice a year should do it!)

I use the Stainless Steel and Chrome-Moly versions rather than the Titanium. I don't care enough about a few grams extra weight to spends hundreds more. The cleats, either aero or the original style are the same regardless of spindle material AFAIK. So functionality is the same, only weight differs, and weight is the least relevant aspect for performance.

For me the positives, especially comfort and ease of engagement with the standard double sided pedals, easily outweigh any negatives.

+1
*the ti spindles are shorter though, for q factor if that's important.

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The standard titanium spindle length is 50mm, while it's 53mm for both Chrome-Moly and Stainless versions.
However you can also order the stainless steel version with spindles lengths of 50, 56, 59 or 65mm.
So, you don't have to spend the cash for titanium to get a 50mm spindle.

Didn't know that, thanks

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One nice thing about Speedplays are pretty much completely rebuildable. $70 gets new bearings and pedal bodies. Super easy to lube as well.

On this topic:
Does anyone have sizes or other specs handy for replacement O rings and bearings?
I've never needed to replace anything or re-build any of mine but my oldest pair could probably do with a bearing replacement and I suspect the O rings are no longer in great shape. I know you can get the rebuild pack from Speedplay but I have a sneaking suspicion the bearings and O rings are pretty cheap off the shelf items - my pedal bodies are still in good shape.

the Speedplay Aero looks like a one sided clip in. Do you ever go to clip in and find the pedal is upside down?

This is probably a pretty ignorant question, I know. I appreciate your insight.

Nope.

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Jim Manton / ERO Sports