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frank, had a problem with my pc's. i couldn't get the spider arm off. i am 99% sure there is a problem with the threads. the crankpuller wouldn't thread into the arm. but it worked on the other side and on my regular cranks. a guy at my lbs finally got it off. not exactly sure how, he used a couple of tools. but the end cap won't go back on. this was the first time since i installed them that i tried to swap them to another bike, so i don't think i did anything to them. all i know is that right now i can't use them. suggestions? solutions?
f/k/a mclamb6
its reversed threaded, the cap, it took me hours to figure out how to get that bloody thing off.
The way to do it is to leave the cap on and undo the bolt on the BB and it pushes the crank off.
i am going to change my handle to "imamoron". thanks.
f/k/a mclamb6
Don't feel bad, I didn't read the directions until I had the same problem...it's right in the directions, though!
Quid quid latine dictum sit altum videtur
(That which is said in Latin sounds profound)
Oh my god installing and removing them the first time was straight from the three stooges.
First they would not go on the BB, they dont fit on 105 because of the machined parts arent chamfered???
So I went and bought a BB tool and an Ultegra or DA BB.
It took about 5 hours and one phone call to TTN to figure that one out.
Get BB, install and not everything is hunky dory.
Then go to remove them and I can get that B'stard off, several hours later realize that the thing was reverse threaded......
:)
the only thing i can't figure out is why the other arm came off so easy with the crankpuller. it just wouldn't thread into the spider arm.
f/k/a mclamb6
one other question, i get some chain rub with the pc's. do i just need to continue to crank them down on the bb or adjust the high and low stops on the front derailleur?
f/k/a mclamb6
The cranks aren't threaded the same...the spider side is reverse threaded from the crank puller threads, the non-spider side is threaded like the crank puller threads (if I remember correctly). They were made this way (I assume) to decrease the chance of pedalling forces from inadvertantly loosening the crankarm...sort of like your bike pedals...one is threaded one way, and the other is threaded the opposite way.
Quid quid latine dictum sit altum videtur
(That which is said in Latin sounds profound)
You cant use the crank puller on one side. One side is normal threaded so use the crank arm.
The other side leave the cap on because it is reverse threaded, So leave the cap on insert the allen wrench and undo the bolt and the bolt pushing against the cap pushes the arm off.
You will strip the crank trying to put the puller on the reverse threads, these could be chased out but you will F**k them up if you are not careful.
Be careful, it took me hours to figure it out, should have read the instructions :)
Mine rubs because the spiders bent, you can crank them some more or re'adjust the mech.
I am glad this was answered without any input from me. One has to wonder why I would do that. Well, the first interation of these had everything right threaded and you used your crank puller normally. Unfortunately, there was a high incidence of the right end cap coming off during rides and, if that happens, everything falls apart and the cranks are unridable. My first fix was to put in the set screw, but it still happened. I presumed it was because when the clutch is slipping it would tend to loosen the end cap. I knew I had to go to left threaded but I couldn't figure out how to get the cranks off. Then I came up with the hole in the left threaded end-cap bright idea. Unfortunately, everyone forgets and no one reads directions (and even if they did it was months ago and it seems so "simple") and I get more calls from bike shops and customers on this one item than anything else. This has greatly reduced the lost end cap problem and greatly increased the "I can't get them off" problem. :-)
Anyhow, if you really bunged up those threads send the part back to me and I'll see if I can put the tap in it and clean 'em up. No charge except for postage.
Frank
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Frank,
An original Ironman and the Inventor of PowerCranks
I would first adjust the stops, and be careful not to set them up to overshift, though. Then, I still have to fiddle with the shift lever to keep the rubbing down to a minimum...just a bit more than with a normal crank system. There's just a tiny little more play in the PC system than found in a normal crank...and it makes sense...you have the bearing surfaces and clutch mechanism and all of that. It's really not a problem, it just requires a tad bit more attention when setting the front derailleur...you may have to adjust the shift lever every time you shift more than three rear cogs one way or the other.
Quid quid latine dictum sit altum videtur
(That which is said in Latin sounds profound)
gotta admit Frank, you are full of it! :-)
still remember when you told me: 5' to 10' for a bad bike mechanic to put them...
took me 1h! so, before improving my HF, they gave me tremendous strength in the fingers ;-)
Okay Francois. so I lie once in awhile. Although, the amount of time it takes to install and remove them depends a lot on which way you are trying to turn those end caps. Rumor has it that some of these were found in a couple of Saddams torture chambers. Probably the ones reserved for the bike mechanics.
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Frank,
An original Ironman and the Inventor of PowerCranks