Aero/FIt advantage. It's easier to get lower on a smaller frame (I think?)

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@floathammerholdon | @partners_in_tri

It is aero. But, riding well in a low position on a small bike requires back, neck, and hip flexibility. If you do not have those attributes, then you could get a small bike and never ride well. On the flip side, if you get a fit and get a larger bike, you might ride great. Then, over the course of the next year or so, as you get comfortable in the tri position and improve flexibility, you may be able to ride equally well in a lower position. If that happens, then you may want to sell and downsize.

An official bike fit is priceless!

Size is a useless concept for a TT bike.

I'm 6"2 and rode a size 60 Felt B2 Pro, and would now ride a size 56 Felt IA or size 54 Specialized Shiv. I currently ride a size Large in the Trek Speed Concept but could hit my coordinates with a Medium or XLarge too. All with the same position.


Try to determine your pad stack and reach and work from there. This forum can help you nail specific sizing for almost any frame if you give the pad S/R (or even a reasonable range). Maybe a shop will agree to a preliminary fit before sale?

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ZONE3 - We Last Longer

It all comes down to bike fit. It depends on the model. Some are longer frames, so you can go smaller, still have the reach you need to hit the stack you need. I'm 5'11" and on a Medium Speed Concept and I can barely get the front end low enough.

I think a lot of average height pros like a more compact position too. Begin long and stretched out sometimes is less comfortable and places more strain on your back. You should be able to get better leverage at high W/KG without having to activate your core as much.

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TrainingBible Coaching
http://www.trainingbible.com

Nublet, I beg of you (and all others)....get a "prefit" done on a dynamic fit bike BEFORE you purchase a tri bike. Expect to pay a ton $200-$350 for this process and leave there with...

• An understanding of why tri bike sizing is different (and more critical) than road bike sizing
• A list of makes, models, sizes and front end configurations* that are right for you & your budget
  
• A detailed sheet that has all of your fit coordinates on it so that when you buy the bike can be positioned perfectly
• A warm feeling of confidence inside that the money you just dropped will assure your comfort and, therefore, speed going forward with many hours/miles over the next, what? 7 years that you own and PR on that perfect bike

This fitting might take place at a shop and it might take place at a fit studio. The place you get your fit done may or may not sell something that's on that list that's right for you and that's okay.


If you want help finding a fitter with the education and a dynamic fit bike near you, PM me and I'll help.


Ian


*front end configurations: finding the right size frame is not enough in this process, it also requires a description of the length and pitch of the stem (or, if you're buying a super bike; "stem"), the number of spacers between the stem and the frame, the amount of pedestal under the arm pad, the position of that arm pad on it's mount and the length of aerobar extension sticking out the front.

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Ian Murray
http://www.TriathlonTrainingSeries.com
I like the pursuit of mastery
Twitter - @TriCoachIan

I'm 6'3" and on a 58cm P3C. I got a new fit a few months ago and he suggested me getting a taller and longer frame in the future. Dan posted an article a few years back about bike shops recommending smaller bikes when that may not be correct.

The truth is that the same position can be acheived on multiple sizes of the same bikes. If this is the case, which is the best choice based on aerodynamics, steering, etc?

I will be choosing the same frame size in the future.

What's your pad X/Y?

Probably not be not applicable to high end pros but at the lower sponsorship levels, one factor can be that if you can get a good fit on a either a 58 or 60-62, its is way easier to sell a 58 frame at the end of the season. Can't say I've ever heard that specifically about triathletes but I it not uncommon among roadies.

Definitely get a bike fit if you can before you buy, ideally from someone who doesn't have any particular allegiance to any brand/manufacturer. After 20+ years of triathlon, I got one done earlier this year for the first time - and I've moved to longer aero bars and pads are now under my elbows so better support and a little more stretched out (less crunched up) and more comfortable for longer distance.

I guess a smaller frame may be marginally lighter? But as other folks have said, it's all about the position. I have poor flexibility it seems, and as I've got older my front end has come up. Working on that now though.

For what it's worth, I am 6" tall in old money. and have long legs/short torso and ride a 56 Cervelo P2C from 2009/10, and also a 1998 QR Kilo PR size 57. Can get the same pad/stack/reach etc on the both. Am equally slow on both.

Not a pro, but I tend to choose a smaller size than many guys my height. For me a bike has to have an effective top tube measurement of 53 or 53.5 cm. I am 5' 9", but have long legs. Usually that puts me on a small frame where I can get an aggressive position.

When I sold bikes, I found that most inexperienced guys wanted to size up. Many stated that their friend rode a 56 cm, so they know they did. They were frequently shorter. You could not talk them down.

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"Remember: a bicycle is an elegant and efficient tool designed for seeking out and defeating people who aren't as good as you."

--BikeSnobNYC

My problem is that there are no shops around me that don't also sell bikes (and hence have incentive to sell me on something). I'm fine with a 61cm if it's actually the best fit but I worry that I'm being pushed that way just because not many people 6'3+ are on the market and they need to move stock

Bike shops tend to err on the side of "high and tight" (or "sit up and beg") because the inexperienced rider is most likely to be happy with that position.

If you ride with a flat back, then you will most likely want a smaller frame that lets you get lower. But you need to know your pad xy to get a definitive answer. If you don't have enough riding experience to know that, then make sure you get a bike that takes normal stems. That will give you loads of height adjustability.

There used to be a saying years ago when as riders got more serious about cycling: "MY BIKE OUTGREW ME."

All things equal smaller frames are lighter and stiffer. It is that simple.

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Emilio De Soto II
Maker of triathlon clothing, T1 Wetsuits, & Saddle Seat Pads and AXS since 1990
emilio@desotosport.com http://www.desotosport.com

+10000 Internet points for your, sir.

If I could get even a fraction of our local audience to understand this, my job would be 1000x easier. I'll continue chipping away...

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Trent Nix
Owned and operated Tri Shop
F.I.S.T. Advanced Certified Fitter | Retul Master Certified Fitter (back when those were things)

This is not even 10% of what most tri bikes sell for, and is well worth it to not buy the wrong bike.

One note is make sure to find a good fitter who truly understands tri bike fit. There are unfortunately lots of fitters who know roadie fit well, but provide very poor tri-specific fits. http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...it%20refund#p6085817

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ECMGN Therapy Silicon Valley:
Depression, Neurocognitive problems, Dementias (Testing and Evaluation), Trauma and PTSD, Traumatic Brain Injury (TBI)

Not really, If I test ride a small bike it feels like a whippy piece s of crap.
It's carbon days now and bikes are made stronger for bigger sizes.
In steel day yes, long bikes were noodles, aluminium better, but with carbon, get the frame that fits you.

Weight distribution is horrible on a too small frame.

Your fit should have provided you with all the info you required to size yourself.
If it didn't, go get your money back.

That is your opinion and what you feel when you ride is different than what others feel. If you are an expert on bike frames and fit state your credentials. You may get (or lose) clients.

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Emilio De Soto II
Maker of triathlon clothing, T1 Wetsuits, & Saddle Seat Pads and AXS since 1990
emilio@desotosport.com http://www.desotosport.com

Do you mind explaining how the pad measurements work? Im very new to all of this, and by my logic I could just move the pads on my current bike and get a different measurement. Is it a measurement of where im comfortable at?

Just in your situation, I have seen store just try to get rid of inventory. You could fit a 61 cm but is it best??! It is for them if they get ride of that hard to sell 61 cm frame.

Do some measurements and overall a small frame with extensions to adjust the stack and reach to what you need is best.

More wt over the cranks and balance points.

Easier to sell a medium and large then X-Large frame.

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Technique will always last longer then energy production. Improve biomechanics, improve performance.
http://Www.anthonytoth.ca, triathletetoth@twitter

Dear old chap - Holy resurrection, Batman!
@Nublet72 was here for a month in 2016 asking this question. I fear they are no longer with us so your wise counsel will not land.

I am not getting any of this ?? What was the question ?

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Technique will always last longer then energy production. Improve biomechanics, improve performance.
http://Www.anthonytoth.ca, triathletetoth@twitter

Check out this section of articles and see if they explain what you are trying to figure out.
https://www.slowtwitch.com/...ODE4NDcyNS4yNC4wLjA.

From my understanding, it's easier to make a bike longer/higher rather than shorter/lower with aftermarket adjustments.

The original post was from 2016 lol

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DFRU - Detta Family Racing Unit...the kids like it and we all get out and after it...gotta keep the fam involved!