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Wheel Problems
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For racing I ride a set of Zipp 404s. The problem is that my gearing gets screwed up when I switch from my training wheels to my race wheels. When my race wheels are on I can't hit the smallest gear on the rear cog and the chain will almost get thrown into the spokes if I shift down to the largest. So I usually get my bike tuned with my race wheels so I have no problem at the races, but then I always have to ride my race wheels because when I put my training wheels back on I throw the chain off the small ring into the frame. Is there a spacer or something I can buy that will fix this problem? Or quick adjustment (free, instead of having to go to the shop) to make when swapping the wheels out?

Any recommendations would be helpful...hopefully I haven't confused you to much about the situation, but it's crazy annoying.

Thanks for your help.
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Re: Wheel Problems [william] [ In reply to ]
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What's different between the race and training wheels? Different cassettes? I would think the spacing would be the same as long as you're using the same number of gears on both cassettes.

Are both cassettes the same? Wouldn't that probably fix the problem?

EDIT: Or you could learn how to adjust cables for yourself. Just ask the shop next time you are in to teach you. It's a pretty easy practice...

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Last edited by: brandonecpt: Dec 30, 07 5:44
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Re: Wheel Problems [william] [ In reply to ]
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the critical question:

what type, brand, model of hubs are on your 'training' wheels?





Where would you want to swim ?
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Re: Wheel Problems [william] [ In reply to ]
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    That's the right question, and yes, there is a spacer you can buy. Ask the shop.
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Re: Wheel Problems [GregX] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks for all the info. My training wheels are Mavic Ksyrium Elite, with Mavic hubs.
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Re: Wheel Problems [william] [ In reply to ]
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I use a spacer as well, but it isn't perfect. I still have to tweak the rear der a bit. I strongly suggest you learn how to do this yourself. I used to live in fear of touching my cables/der, but its actually amazingly simple. There are some great youtube instruction videos which taught me. Just search around and you should be set.
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Re: Wheel Problems [william] [ In reply to ]
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more important questions: do you switch your cassettes each time you change wheels, or do you have two cassettes, one for your race wheels and one for trainer wheels?

if yes, what are the exact type of cassettes you are using on each rear wheel?





Where would you want to swim ?
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Re: Wheel Problems [william] [ In reply to ]
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Its not uncommon to have to make a slight barrel adjustment on your rear deraileur when changing wheels from one model to another. Make small barrel rotations (try a 1/4 turn at a time) in the direction of slow shifting response (i.e. rotate towards the larger cogs if the shifting response is slow in that direction; likewise rotate towards the smaller cogs if the shifting response in slow in that direction). My experience in changing from a Zipp 404 with a 10 speed cassette to a Hed disc with a 10 speed cassette is that a 1/2 turn is usually required to tune it in. Caution: There should never be a need to adjust the small phillips head hi and low limit screws when changing a wheel or cassette.
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Re: Wheel Problems [nc_cyclist] [ In reply to ]
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In Reply To:
Caution: There should never be a need to adjust the small phillips head hi and low limit screws when changing a wheel or cassette.
False. Sure, 130mm is the "standard" however where the freehub body sits is not the same on all wheels, off by only 1/2mm...but these days with 10 speed that can be an issue. Add into that some of the super thick spokes (Mavic) and the dish of some wheels - it can infact be an issue.

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