It's not mine to identify them, unfortunately. Not trying to be secret or scandalous, just telling you I asked the same question of someone I completely trust and got the answer I shared.

It's certainly possible what I was told was incorrect, old news, or simply contradicts what another's memory might recall.

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Trent Nix
Owned and operated Tri Shop
F.I.S.T. Advanced Certified Fitter | Retul Master Certified Fitter (back when those were things)

if you are talking UCI master worlds, the p5-6 fork is not going to fly in any way

No, not for world's. What is the fastest configuration outside of world's? As an aside, at master's worlds this year in France, they did not enforce the 3:1 rule. Bikes with P5 Six forks were allowed to race. I felt a little silly changing everything out for UCI compliance.

I'm certain it was stated in the P5 white paper that the low mount with the aero spacers vs V-mount = drag neutral.
Too lazy to go look for it tho...

Sorry...late to this party. It sounds like you've got things sorted or that you at least have some good advice to pick from.

Been a little less attentive lately with a home project complete, holiday planning, etc.

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Brandon Marsh - Website | @BrandonMarshTX | RokaSports | 1stEndurance | ATC Bikeshop |

That's interesting. I'm just about to replace my P5-six fork with a P5-three fork for next year's UCI master's worlds (didn't order the fork yet). I tried to get an exemption from the UCI to use the -six fork but they denied. They added "...most likely the fork will not be checked..." but that's a too vague statement for me...

I checked the TT rules of the 2017 master's worlds final (Albi, France) and indeed, they do not mention the 3:1 rule being checked. So maybe I simply wait until the rules for the 2018 final are being published...

Any idea how this is handled by the qualifier events? The one in Ljubljana (Slovenia) simply refers to the UCI rules...strictly speaking, the P5-six fork wouldn't be allowed then. But will it be checked...?

Hi all,
A friend is building a P5-6, and wants to use the Shimano di2 brake levers, thus we are looking into replacing the Magura's with a normal brake caliper.
What cable brake calipers will work well with the frame, fit under the covers, allow good cable routing, and preferably not cost $200 per caliper??

Thanks!

None, without some magical fabrication for the covers.

jkhayc wrote:

None, without some magical fabrication for the covers.

like Ty's P5...

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Swimming Workout of the Day:

Favourite Swim Sets:

2020 National Masters Champion - M50-54 - 50m Butterfly

Thats pretty....lol.
Maybe time to recommend etap to my friend..

What about using this on the right side of base bar to control rear der.??
Can a longer etube cable be attached to it compared to that pictured?


http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...%7C%7Cprd%7C330065CA

I'm 3D printing hopefully my last revision to my P5-6 / Alpha X / Omega X custom fairing.

It's been painstakingly long process but that's because I've taught myself Inventor along the way. I've never claimed to be a quick learner... I'm happy with the result and wouldn't mind printing some additional ones for people to try out.

Its about ~$1.50 for the material and ~$1.50 for the magnets. If someone wanted to play around with it, I'd be happy to print and send one with no expectations it'll be worth a darn. Probably ~$5 for shipping. Call it an even $10 if you wanted to get one.

Oh, its a 54 frame. I could adjust the overall neck length to account for the different head tube lengths - again no guarantee of success but if its worth a shot to you for $10, let me know.

I'll post a picture once completed - actually would like feedback. There's one area that I'd like to further tweak but not sure it matters. I won't say just yet what that is. Curious if others will point it out.

I've also got a bento box that I've designed and printed. Happy to print that one for $10 as well. Tho I'm not as happy with the functionality of it and some of my prints have sagged in one particular spot. I use it for my flat storage - not nutrition - so quick access while riding wasn't a priority for me.

Side note - from the limited tunnel testing I did with different bento boxes behind the Alpha X, it didn't matter much (meaning within what I would call a margin of human error while pedaling) if it was a perfectly flush fit to the stem or if it was just a random bento - specifically the Gen 2 Speed Concept bento.

Not a direct answer to your question but on same topic.

Yes, I did that. Took apart the shifter housing until it was just the buttons. Your buddy would have to find a way to stuff another junction B into the Aduro, unless he's running 1x (I was on 1x so only had 1 e tube from RD shifter). To be honest, it worked like shit. Buttons were very difficult to push. If I went back and did it again, I'd run e-tap if I was so desperate to NOT use the Magura brakes (which I don't understand to be honest, because they are phenomenal).

Sorry to be thick...when you say you took it apart, was that just to de-bulk it, or because you had to change something?
And the extra junction box - that is because of the short etube cable, thus need the junction as an extension??

And, just to be clear, nothing against the Maguras, he just still wants to be able to shift from the base bar. Etap is certainly an option. Me personally, I tried etap briefly and it worked great, but I'm not sure I'd have the overall confidence in it....seems to be a few reports of issues in the rain, no? And batteries draining during transport, needing charging on a very regular basis, etc.
Probably overthinking all that, but di2 just seems to work so well and reliably, and a lot more options for rear derailleurs to use as well, different sizes and price ranges.

yea i was just de-bulking it. so my handlebar was set up like so:

• FD shifter in left extension but not plugged into anything (just acting as a 'dummy')
• Junction B mounted in aduro's "stem" area
• Internal/pencil battery ALSO mounted in left extension plugged into junction B
• RD shifter in right extension plugged into junction B
• "satellite/climber" shifter (de-bulked) plugged into junction B (due to its very short cable, junction B was sort of biased towards right side of Aduro)

I mounted Junction A under my saddle by drilling a hole in the top of the "rail" seat post

I totally agree that Di2 inspires more confidence all around compared to e tap. It's tried and true.

Pictures of Alpha X / Omega X fairing and bento box posted here - https://drive.google.com/...W-sBgEcL8EI-nvdaoLQd

Like I said above - would like input if anyone has any.

In case you don't want to click the link or the words alone don't get your attention - here are a couple screen shots of the rendering.

Does anyone have 3T Aduro base bar (preferably matte finish) that they don't use and want to sell? I had some damage to mine and would like to replace it.

Yep! I've got it posted in classifieds. Shoot me a PM?

Hope someone here can help.

I'm in the process of replacing a damaged 3T Aduro on my P5-6 with a new one. I also want to remove one of the 10mm spacers while I'm at it. I plan on taking the fork to a LBS to have it cut down. Is it safe to tell them to cut it down by 10mm? Or, will I need to take the frame in (and spacers) so they can mark it and cut it down?

Thanks

Personally I'd take everything in, have it mocked up, marked and cut 1-2mm below that mark (think that's Cervelo's recommendation).

In theory 10mm on both would work. I like the extra security of mocking it up.

Hello All.

I know this subject has been discussed multiple times. This thread is crazy long, so my apologies if this is covered and I missed it.

Looking for some advice on my holiday project to upgrade my P5 from mechanical to electronic shifting. Have scoured the Internet and ST to gather as much info as possible, but could still use some advice or words of wisdom from this group.

I have gathered all components over the past three months from various locations (some new some used), and I am ready to jump in. Using DA DI2 9070 front and rear, and going all in with Synchro Shifting, using D-Fly unit. Have set everything up on my bench; updated firmware, and tested completely off-bike, and all is working as expected. So onto my questions:

Location of Junction Box A.

• Not going to hide it internal as I want to be able to access. Plan is to mount (either zip tie or double-sided tape) to side of stem, as I have seen others do. Comments?

How to best mount Internal Battery.

• Not sure about this yet. Using Internal DN110. Any advice on this? E-Tube wire length?

Length of E-tube wires:

• From Junction A to B (bottom bracket)?
• From Junction B to Front Derailleur?
• From Junction B to Rear Derailleur?

Shifting from brake levers

• Read all about this one, including most of the hacks. As I said, I plan on using synchro, so I am only looking for single-action (one button up, one button down). To this end I am going with SW-R1950 Climbing shifters, where I will either mount directly on the brake levers or on the inside (under tape) just before the brakes. This way I will get one direction with the left button, other with the right. Will plug them directly into (5 port)Junction A. Any comments? Anyone that has done this before provide words of wisdom?

(Note: I am not completely willing to give up all control of my front derailleur, so am using standard SW-R671 2-button shifters on extensions.)

Thanks for any and all advice.

Old bike, old thread - but new to me 2012 P5 frameset.

For the top tube cable entry point...


Is there a different cap for the 2012 than a 2013+ P5? The only one I found looks like this and seems to only have holes for 2 cables....and indicates its for 2013+.


Thanks.

The two cables go thru the larger oval

Perfect. Thanks.