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Stem length
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Here is my issue. I ride a 52cm Scott Plasma which has a stack of 51.5 and a reach of 39.2. I went with the 52 even though the reach of the 54 seemed better. Scott has very strange stack and reach numbers. I figured that since saddle height is based on proper leg extension, and I can't make my legs any longer, I should get the frame size that will get me in an aggressive position and adjust the stem length accordingly. Now to get the reach of the 54 Plasma I need a 130mm stem on my 52cm.

I just read in the Stack and Reach Primer: Chapter 2 that, "The way you add to a frame's reach is to put on a longer and longer stem. But you also change the frame's structural integrity when you do so, and you also change its handling characteristics."

Obviously safety is first so do you think that I am reducing the structural integrity of my frame when using a 130mm stem? I guess it makes sense when you think about the added leverage that a longer stem puts on the steerer tube and headtube. The handling feels the exact same to me though.

The reason I am bringing this issue up is because I will be getting the new Plasma 2 frame soon, same geometry, and want to make sure that I should still get a 52 or get a 54 and instead of putting on a longer stem just use a stem with 35 degrees of drop.
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Re: Stem length [inaba116] [ In reply to ]
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Inaba116

Great questions - here is a bump because I would like to see an answer as well from some of the fit experts.
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Re: Stem length [inaba116] [ In reply to ]
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I am no fit expert, but I am taking a bit of a guess here that a 130mm stem on a tri bike is not going to be the best set up. I suspect that you will have too much weight too far forward and also handleing /steering will not be that good with this length of stem - perhaps very twitchy. This length of stem is not uncommon on road bikes with bigger taller riders, but that assumes they are well balanced on the bike in the first place.

Hopefully some of the real fit gurus here will be more helpful.


Steve Fleck @stevefleck | Blog
Last edited by: Fleck: Nov 12, 08 7:31
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Re: Stem length [inaba116] [ In reply to ]
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Re: Stem length [inaba116] [ In reply to ]
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Sounds like you should get the 54, provided the saddle can go low enough for you and that the stack increase from the 52 to the 54 won't be a problem.
130mm stem is a bit much for a relatively small bike, especially a tri bike.

Jonathan Blyer,
ACME Bicycle Co., Brooklyn, NY
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Re: Stem length [inaba116] [ In reply to ]
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I ride a large frame/ large beam Zipp 2001 with a 130mm stem. I actually like the long stem.

My new bike (look 596) will be delivered with a ~118mm stem. I'll not be riding quite as steep as I am now (5cm infront of the bb).

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Paul
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Re: Stem length [Fleck] [ In reply to ]
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Wouldn't have thought it'd be twitchy. That weight that far forward is more likely to make the steering handle like a tiller.



"Here's how you run a marathon. Step 1: You start running. Step 2: There is no step 2." - Barney (How I Met Your Mother)
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Re: Stem length [inaba116] [ In reply to ]
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I run a 120mm stem without issue, so a 130 should be ok.
It may slow down the steering response, since the weight is quite far forward.
If it's a carbon steerer tube, I'd be inclined to check it often.

I have a 130mm on my track bike, but the weight is biased rearward - being a road position.



"Here's how you run a marathon. Step 1: You start running. Step 2: There is no step 2." - Barney (How I Met Your Mother)
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Re: Stem length [inaba116] [ In reply to ]
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the 130 stem legnth is long, but not out of the question. plenty of roadies use 130s, especially in europe. americans tend to prefer shorter stems, triathletes even shorter. you can also take a look at aero bar options that allow more adjustment to the pads. something like a T-2 has plenty of options.

more importantly i think you need to rethink your reasoning.
"I can't make my legs any longer, I should get the frame size that will get me in an aggressive position and adjust the stem length accordingly."
i think you should focus more on the reach of the bike's geometry. it's easier and causes fewer issues with bike set up and handling to raise or lower a seatpost 10-20 cm than to play with the front end. this was part of the reasoning for bike makers to go to sloped top tubes and fewer sizes. if you dial in the reach then it's easier to move the saddle up or down with less impact on handling.

______________________________________
"Competetive sport begins where healthy sport ends"
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Re: Stem length [bermudabill] [ In reply to ]
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Well it looks like there is no definite answer here. Here is what I was thinking...

1. Get the 52cm frame and since I am going to be using Easton Attack TT bars, which have the armrests centered over the base bar, instead of Profiles Sonic CSX's (on my bike now) which have the armrests situated slightly back from the base bar, this will allow me to use a shorter stem. Possibly a 110-120. A 110 stem does not seem that long since that is what comes stock on a 54cm Plasma.

2. Get the 54cm frame which has a better suited reach and hope that I can get an aggressive enough position with a severely dropped stem. Since the stock stem on a 54cm is a 110 stem I will most likely have to go shorter.

Looking at these two options neither seem to be bad ideas in my head, granted I am no fit expert.
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Re: Stem length [inaba116] [ In reply to ]
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both options seem reasonable.
you might also consider getting a Look Adjustable Ergo Stem and use that for a few months or a season (or the first few months of each season) and try different positions. they cost a bit but have good resale on ebay.
it's really hard to know how a bike will feel after months of riding. i think most people make themselves like the fit instead of getting the fit they like.
http://www.gottaridebikes.com/...Product_Code=STM0035
good luck

______________________________________
"Competetive sport begins where healthy sport ends"
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Re: Stem length [jackmott] [ In reply to ]
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Ive ridden as long as a 15cm in experimenting with fit. (they are very hard to find)

ive not been able ot notice any change in handling- it actually, if anything, long stems DE-twitch it- because there is a slightly longer distance from your hands to hte pivot- but this affect is tiny...

think about hte geometry- what matters is the radial distance from the pivot (middle of the steerer), to say your brake hoods (or the aerobar equivalent thereof)

most bars are 42cm wide, so 21 cm per side. with a 80mm stem that makes a total distance of 22.5cm, and with a 14cm stem makes a total distance of 25.2cm (pythagoras). Ie the difference in "hand to pivot" distance between the longest and the shortest stems is only 10%- so you wont be able to notice it.

The one thing you may be able to notice is as your weight shift torwards the front wheel there is the slight increased possibility of being able to lock your rear wheel- frnakly i can lock the rear wheel and powerslide ANY bike i own, so im not sure this is a very relevent question.


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