No. Brand new everything (chain, chainring, rear D) except cassette.

Here's my 1x10 setup. Rival 1 rear mech., 52T x-sync chainring, SRAM R2C shifters, 11-28 cassette. I have an 11-32 cassette on the way for training.

Just installed my chainring and mine is a bit loud too. Haven't done too much since I was in a rush so just put ring on my rival crank. Still need to take FD off and hope that helps. Chain is clean but a year old so maybe that's the issue? The chainring doesn't need to be on a specific orientation since I don't have the hidden bolt right? Can't wait to get home from dinner and hope to get it all figured out!

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Ok thanks! I have heard they were quieter so wasn't sure if I messed something up or needed to adjust the RD. But now time to dive totally in and take off the FD!

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secks

Ready for a 2 mile Prologue tomorrow morning.
SC 7 Series Plasti Dipped
3T Nano's w/ Ventus comfort pads, narrow pad mounts and Tririg Gammas (Hockey tape for bar tape) with skateboard grip tape on back of base bar.
SRAM TT shifters (left locked in place for hand comfort)
SRAM TT brake levers
LOOK Ergostem
Tririg Omega X
105 Crank
Falco Narrow Wide (Fiber Lyte has not arrived :( )
105 Pedals
Force XX1 RD with no name 13-15 Pulleys
KMC SL Chain, waxed, coated with Paraffin
Elite bottle
Nokons
View Speed Skewers
H3 Trispoke w/ ceramic / inner bearing dust caps removed, (golf) weighted tape opposite valve to balance wheel, 20mm Supersonic w/ latex + sealant
(Older) Zipp 404 PT w/ cover, Veloflex Record 22mm w/latex + sealant
Ares Saddle
Now if only the motor were in the same shape. Lets see how fast we can go with low watts :D

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My Blog - http://leegoocrap.blogspot.com

54x10 and 11-23. Now for Whistler that 23 is going to be rough so need to go either 30 or possibly 32. Last year before freezing to death, I went up the olympic park on 42x23 with 42x21 for most of the climb. Thinking of changing the bar end shifters and RD to 11sp. With the RD, how large can you run without needed a long cage?

Should be able to run a 28 with short cage and you might be able to run a 30 with the B-screw all the way but it depends on some other factors.

Nice Eastern Attack bar! They are so underrated but are probably the best production aerobar made (if you fit it of course).

Demo bars found on eBay for $150 :)

I know, right?! They are floating around on ebay for an eighth of the price of newer high end bars, but are not only 300+ grams lighter, but have a very low stack and frontal profile. Such a good value. Unfortunately, I had to sell mine because the extensions weren't long enough.

I wonder if in the right hands someone could modify these bars to allow for other extensions?

Balancing wheels? Pretty cool, any data on the results of doing this?

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BoulderCyclingCoach.com

I've thought about this; you could find either an older style Pro Missile or Easton Attack TT (The adjustable kind), remove the alloy collars, and bond them in to the older Eastons. That being said, it'd be a lot easier, and cheaper, to get either the Missile or Attack TT as, when you bond the collars in, you'll increase the weight to a point where I it'd be close to either of those bars (especially the missile; there is picture @ weight weenies that shows the 38cm missile weighing about 460 something grams, with extensions and arm rests).

Only other way I think it might be done is bonding a carbon clamp of some sort on to the existing extensions (similar to that prototype TriRig showed a while back). Fabricating a clamp out of carbon would be pretty expensive too.

No unfortunately, also golf lead tape is probably a worse solution than weighted putty. (Tungsten putty) There should theoretically be some benefit to a balanced wheel but likely very very marginal
I've heard Wiggins does it though so it must be ideal... Right...

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Hey guys

Thanks for all the inspiration in this thread!

I noticed the lack of shimano di2 solutions though. Does that not work well at all? I run a 1x group on the cx bike and it works great (Force CX1). Intrigued by trying it out for tri as well. Looking for some advice as to how I go most sensible about, starting with the setup i currently have.

Trek SC with DA9070. I'm thinking that 54/11-28 would work for most things but down the line I would appreciate 11-32 or even 11-36 cassette options. So I would likely need to do something about the RD. Perhaps the woolftooth roadlink is enough to make a standard 9070 rd run 11-32 or even 11-36? If that wont work, do i need to invest in the XTR di2 RD? will that work with the rest of the DA system?

Ok, so for the crankset and chain ring. Would obviously prefer to reuse as much as possible. Can I order a fibre-lyte ring and call it a day? will it sit propperly on the outer ring and work with the range of the cassette? Any other straight forward solutions?

Any other input or ideas would be most welcome!

Thanks :)

Probably need a medium or long cage RD. Building mine up soon.

Rival Crank - 50 T 170mm, replacing Ultegra 6700 50/34T 170mm

Rival 1X RD medium cage (the newest version has 36T max capacity and the original wifli supports 32T max), Replacing Force short cage.

If you have Shimano 10Sp there may be some N.O.S. Mtb RD that would work... or a road medium cage.

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2020 National Masters Champion - M40-44 - 400m IM
Canadian Record Holder 35-39M & 40-44M - 200 m Butterfly (LCM)

Here is mine! Loving it so far. Need a new RD since that one is old and the barrel adjuster is broken so can't get it PERFECT. But two races in and loving how simple it is. 50 tooth up front and 11-28 rear but used 11-25 for the first race of the season.[/img]

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I went 50x 11-28 In Whistler last year, about a 190 Watt guy for IM. You can go 32 by reversing the b screw on tour Rd. Went 11-30 for muskox as it is a puncher course.

No issues for me but I am a masher.

...maybe you could make it for beers/ST etc this year.

Maurice

-SD

Is this 1x(1) option only aero when turning left all the time. What happens when I turn right?

That's so funny. That's one of the most common questions ["yea but what if I turn right?"] following the unveiling and the press launch in Tahoe.
It's not less aero that right side drive in all the same applications where right side drive is ok. Actually it's the same; left or right doesn't matter in still air or in an open environment. On the track, right side is worse in every situation except on the straightaway not being passed or passing where it's a net zero.

-SD

Was joking and should have been in pink. Looks cool but not enough gears.