Thanks for the suggestion! The Rotor one seems like a good option paired with a 54t chain ring, although with the jump from 18 to 16 I'm wondering if it will feel as heavy as it does now from 52x17 to 52x15 since I don't have the 17t on the Rotor or Edco cassettes.

The "heaviness" 16-18 jump will be right in between that of a 15-17 jump and a 17-19 jump.

My Premier Tactical 1x. Pretty crap photos as it has been on the trainer for a while. Hope to get it outside soon.


.
I have since put a longer chain on so the derailleur is not so far forward. 11-25t & 1x Absolute Black 50t.

Can you provide some info on the carbon chainring cover I assume?

---

24 Hour World TT Champs-American record holder
Fat Bike Worlds - Race Director
Insta: chris.s.apex

Glen (Alden Carbon) made it based on measurements I provided. Really pleasant to work with and does good work at an even better price. Glued it on with JB Weld.

I keep seeing that ‘show me your 1x’ so I guess I’ll finally post. Pretty basic setup, stripped down from the etap. The 1x is SRAM Force1, 50T upfront when I am not running a 52 oval, and XG-1190-A-2 11-28 cassette. I have a 32t if there is going to be any real climbing. For short course I take the top tube bag and bottle cages off and just run an x-lab hydroblade which is just like the Torhans except it isn’t garbage. Wheels are setup tubeless so I don’t worry about carrying a flat kit. Just a C02 and head in my pocket just in case. It is just over 19lbs in weight. I am thinking about going to AXS because it has been great on my other bikes.

Those wheels have got to be light. Regardless, colour me impressed! I thought I had a good weight on my Da at 17.75, but sub 15?? Well done and she looks sharp too.

---

My YouTubes

Thank you. The wheels are about 1282g , Conti SS tires are about 160g each and the tubes are about 56g each so a nice light aero set up.

Updated picture.
Gutted left shifter, new 40t front narrow/wide ring and steerer cut to size finally.

Decided to get my P4 back in order...just couldn’t get over the 21 lb speed concept...this is just under 18..:


https://postimg.cc/gallery/1gvf36ps2/

Stunning

Just finished the build. Lots of tri rig with an aero coach 1x 54tooth.
Everything is smooth as silk
TriRig brakes, Skewers,delta cover and alpha one aerobars.

Can’t wait to see it.

Right. I can’t seem to post a photo from the phone! 🤨








Jim Hallberg

I can’t either so not a worry

 




Dash saddle, Sram etap, Tri rig Alpha one aerobars, Tririg omega x brakes, Try rig delta cover. Aerocoach 1x 54T. (cause the 52 I had wasn't cutting it) And yes lots of high Vis reflective yellow. (Race wheels are Zipp disc 900 tubular, and Hed 3 front Tubular)

---

Jim Hallberg
USAC level II
USAT Level I
http://www.d3multisport.com
WATTS UP!!

For a couple of weeks I have been thinking about doing a 1x12 mechanical TT build. The other night I finally decided to do so and it was a lot more straight forward that most would think. I will post photos later but in short, the only "12speed" components I used were a 10-33 AXS Force cassette and a 12speed Eagle (mtb) chain. Front ring is a 50t X-Sync. More to come...

My omni, M size with alpha 1, 165mm Dzero, 52T rotor 1x chainring, 12-25 cassette, speedplay zeroaero pedals dash saddle and 90/disc FLO wheels

---

Speed kills unless you have speed skills!!!

So I figured out Miche allows you to basically completely configurate a cassette. So after some thought, a 12-13-14-15-16-17-18-20-23-27-32 cassette paired with a 52T front chain ring seems like it gives me the necessary range while maintaining small jumps at or above race speed. 16-17-18 will give me the straightest chain at my race speeds, and 27 and 32 can serve as bailout on hillier parts.

Looks good to me!

I should probably mention that my attempt to combine Shimano cassettes hasn't worked very well. When you create a spot where the shift ramps don't line up properly, the shifting gets balky. Hopefully the Miche design is more forgiving of customization.

Thanks! What kind of shift ramp do you mean that was giving you issues? I didn't see any issues in the jumps I'm going to have since on a mountainbike cassette you often have bigger (5 teeth) jumps in between gears but I'm a newb when it comes to 1x so I might be wrong.

rruff is referring to how the cogs are shaped.

Here's a close-up of a six-speed SunTour Perfect freewheel, a common design circa 1980:



Although some of the teeth are tapered at the tip, the cogs mostly have a very simple shape, almost like using a cog-shaped cookie cutter on a steel sheet.

Here's a modern six-speed Shimano TZ20 freewheel:



Notice how the cogs have more complex profiles. Not only are the teeth tapered much thinner, there are also areas where the cogs have "lowered" regions, and there are round pins embedded in the cogs.

This sort of cog shaping was introduced in the late 1980s by Shimano, who branded it "hyperglide." It has since become ubiquitous. These shapes are the "shift ramps" being referred to.

With the older-style cogs, the derailleur needs to practically rip the chain up and off of a cog and then drop in onto the next cog. Modern tooth profiling helps the chain "flow" off of a cog, and (especially on shifts to larger cogs) helps the next cog "catch" the chain and get it flowing onto itself.

The thing is, in order to work properly, the shapes rely on the links of the chain being positioned and oriented a certain way. This depends on the cog that's being shifted from. The 28-tooth cog on that TZ20 freewheel is specifically designed to be paired with the 24-tooth cog next to it, and so on.
When you combine two mismatched cassettes to create a custom cassette, the cogs at the "joint" aren't necessarily designed to be paired with each other, and the shift between them might be un-smooth as a result. Sometimes it ends up working fine anyway, sometimes it doesn't.

This same stuff is true of chainrings. If a 50-tooth chainring is designed to be paired with a 34-tooth small ring, and you swap the 34-tooth small ring with a 36-tooth chainring, the upshift from the small ring to the big ring might suffer. It might not suffer, but it certainly isn't guaranteed to work well.

That all makes sense, thanks for the explanation! Learned something new again :)

I know 1x is a bit in trend now in TRi and I nearly bought into it, but I don’t see the point. If you have ever been in a race and just stuck between gears with your effort it sucks. Back when I raced on 2x9 this was an issue, 2x10 occasionally and now 2x11 rarely, if you go 1x this will be an issue all the time. If I see a big hill it’s not hard for me to bang it in the small chain ring and climb it, if I’m on the flats having close shifting gears it is important to me. Also, it doesn’t seem to save money to do this build, the wind tunnel data doesn’t back it up either. And who really wants to be changing front chain rings and adjusting links in your chain every time there is a new course on your race plan. Let’s leave 1x to MTB and stick with what is best for tri, 2x.

However I should also add, thanks for sharing your builds I appreciate everyone has their own best set ups and you all have done some cool stuff.