Yeah i was trying to decide. The 1190 levers are quite chunky so removing one might feel really weird. I also hold the pivot point in the middle of my palm so maybe i'll just leave the lever as is.

I thought about going without the lever too but besides using the lever for my hands I also like the aesthetics a bit better too.

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Twitter - Instagram

Still needs some yellow bar tape...and we haven’t fit the saddle at all yet...but here is my new 1X build...can’t wait to get it on the road this weekend...

Rotor Aldhu 24 crank, 50t
SRAM Force 1 RD, chain
Kogel BB
Kogel pulleys
SRAM R2C shifters
I have two cassettes, 11/28 and 11/32

Nice, what ratios you gone with? not gone oval?

Looks good, details?

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"They know f_ck-all over at Slowtwitch"
- Lionel Sanders

 
Here's my 1x BMC

No oval for me...I’ll edit my post with the other details

  
My new 1x post crash on my 1st gen SC. New 2nd gen 7.5... running 54 x 11-28 with eTap.

Having a great year on it... all but one race I've had the best bike split... bested by one person in one race. 1x suits me just fine!

What chain ring are you using on your Bmc? Great looking build by the way.

Phil

Aerocoach 54T

Thanks!
I was wondering as I have Rotor cranks and a power2max and am interested in changing to a 1x

Phil

Finally have my English reworked and returned. Still working on my front chainring size which will end up being a 40t most likely. Just need to figure out if I am going to search for a spiderless ring for the Lightning cranks or if I purchase a 40t narrow/wide standard ring. Right now the bike is 6400g/14.1 lbs. Will gut the left shifter and may change out the bars and stem to something lighter that I have in my spare parts box.

That’s awesome!

I did finally get the force1X left brake lever for my road bike...it was kind of strange at first...😊

I was going to buy the S900 left brake without mechanism but I have taken the guts out before and been able to install it back when required so does not make sense to purchase.

Here's my end game 1x build (until someone gives me an etap axs group that is). Picture courtesy of Nick from TriRig. Way more photos available on his site @ tririg.com

The chainring is a generic one from ebay I picked up for $38. Mostly started cheap to test whether or not I really wanted a 56 but it's working well and I don't feel like spending more money on another right now. Opted for a standard red 22 rear derailleur as I had a force 1 before and just didn't feel it was necessary so I shed a bit of bulk for this build.

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Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
Deals on Wheels - Results, schedule, videos, sponsors

That's a sweet bike.

But wait... You married a woman named Summer? So now her name is Summer Deal? What happens in winter?

Seriously... Made me laugh.

Honestly, I kinda like her bike better... I think I'm more traditional. :=). But, fast is as fast does. Both are gorgeous, well done.

Which cassette are you running if you don't mind me asking? How much elevation did you have on most courses you've competed on with the Ceepo?

 

I either run a 11-28 or an 11-32 depending on the course. So far just two races on this bike (I raced St. George on a Ceepo Katana because I didn't have my Shadow-R in yet, though I wouldn't have wanted to ride it on that course anyways). At Eagleman (pretty much dead flat) I used the 28 and probably didn't use a cog lower than the top 7. Boulder 70.3 this past weekend had about 1900ft of climbing but mostly false flats so I used the 32 because there was one super short steep climb that I was just grinding out even with the 32. I generally stick to flatter courses so the 11-32 is usually enough.

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Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
Deals on Wheels - Results, schedule, videos, sponsors

I've posted this picture elsewhere, but it's relevant here. DA9100 RD, 46t NW WolfTooth ring, and 11-32 Rotor cassette. Love the cassette. Super light, shifts fine, and has has small jumps with the first 8 cogs (11-20) and then the last three basically act as bailout gears for steep climbs to keep the legs spinning. I think 48t or 50t would probably be a better option for most courses.

I've been thinking about the best way for me to go to 1x, but I'm having some difficulties. Right now I have a 11-28 11 speed Shimano cassette so 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25-28 gears, and 52/36 chain rings in the front. Even though I'm still spinning around 95rpm, the shift from 52x19 to 52x17 but mostly from 52x17 to 52x15 often feels heavy, leaving me spinning at over 100rpm to keep the speed over 40km/h (25mph). The Miche 14-32 cassette seems ideal in that it has 14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23-25-28-32 gears so I have smaller jumps in that range. However, that kinda limits my max speed. And if I'd want my chain line to be as straight as possible at race speeds, I'd need a 56 front chain ring (4.1-4.2W/kg FTP, 65-66kg). The 56x32 still allows me to ride up a hill at around 20km/h (12.5mph) at a cadance of 90-95, which was about the speed I did up 1-2.5km climbs at 5-6% average during the 70.3 Luxembourg recon I did. However the 56 seems a bit daunting being a little guy and having about 600m (1800ft) of climbing on course..

Since I posted on this build a while ago, I upgraded to a Zipp disc, and have added a chain catcher (just in case), and upgraded extensions to TriRig Gamma One, and gone to Di2. Absolutely love this bike... pity the legs can’t do it justice haha

Stock 3T Strada Pro + Quarq DZero
size large

50T chainring
11-36T cassette

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Erik
Strava

And also this one, added a Quarq DZero to this after this picture was taken. It had been 10 years since I bought a new bike... I ended up with two new ones in 2 months!

Orbea Terra
size M, was a demo bike for a few rides
40T chainring
11-36T cassette

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Erik
Strava

There are 11-32 cassettes with a 16t out there. The options I was considering:
Edco 11-12-13-14-15-16-18-21-24-28-32
Rotor 11-12-13-14-15-16-18-20-23-27-32

These are good options for having small jumps for most of the cassette while still having 11-32 range.