I wonder when we'll get 1x12. If 11 is good, 12 must be better, right?

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'It never gets easier, you just get crazier.'

The sram x-sync chain ring is offset, so the chain runs in a position between where the small and big ring would normally be. That solves the chain line issues.

Has this been tested/documented somewhere?

This is an interesting thread about it: http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...post=5493719#5493719

According to other threads there is no frictional loss from the clutch RD, maybe a microwatt so not a concern. That's assuming you use the proper Sram setup, a cobbled system may or may not act the same I'm not sure. The Sram 1X ring is indeed offset to give you proper chainline, it basically sits right in the middle of where a small and big chainring would be

I have read that thread, and some material on another Board. Nothing is conclusive, but there seems to be agreement that the clutch RD introduces some loss. That loss may be immaterial or not.

I have experimented with increasing the chain tension on my single speed road bike. Although anecdotal, it certainly feels like there is a point where chain tension is detrimental.

I too would like to see more data on this.

Not sure what your LBS is thinking... When dropping wheel size from 700c to 650c, in order to maintain the same gear ratios you'd need to add 2-3 teeth to the chainrings. So that would generally mean going from a 50/36 compact to a 53/39 standard.

Going to a 1x set-up really doesn't need much more than the n-w chainring. You might want a wider range in the back, though. The 10-speed cassette will likely still fit on the current freehub you have (if it's 8-speed). If you go past 28T in the back, you may have issues with the RD.

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Some are born to move the world to live their fantasies...

https://triomultisport.com/
http://www.mjolnircycles.com/

OK, I can't upload pics, but I have a P5-6 build very similar to the ones above:

- Sram RTC 11sp shifters (left the left one on as I like symmetry)
- Sram Rival Wi-FLi RD (standard 10sp model, non-clutch);
- 11-32 Sram cassette (11sp)
- Chainring is a custom-made Ossymetric shaped 54t, with Narrow-Wide teeth (same as Sram X-sync tooth profile). I wanted an oval chainring, but nobody makes one with NW teeth so had to get it custom made.
- Don't use any front chain catcher.

My experience so far - 1 dropped chain in maybe 2000km of riding - all conditions, training, racing, hitting speedbumps at speed, rough ravement, etc.

The only chain drop I had was during a downshift while soft-peddling down hill at the end of a training ride. No idea what caused it. Otherwise it has been perfect and never missed a shift or dropped a chain. I previously tried running a standard Q-ring (normal teeth) and that would drop chains shifting on the trainer - the NW teeth is a must.

I see no reason for a clutch derailleur (on road bikes) if you have a NW chainring (plus they're like 100g heavier than my cheap Rival RD!).

I should add that I had way more chain drops per km riden shifting the FD of my old 2x setup.... admittedly with Q-rings.

Not worring about a dropped chain with a front chainring shift makes me far happier with the current setup.

Thanks for all the answers.
So, the NW chainring seems to be 90% of the equation to get 99.999% function. The clutch RD helps but is not really required, no?

Follow up question: will a SRAM NW ring work with a 9-spd chain? Will the chain still be "under control" with the added wiggle-room?

Is the Fibre-Lyte ring "narrow wide" or just deeper, looking for a custom 50T which fits 130 BCD (I don't think anyone makes those)

Maurice

I have a new ring arriving this week from Fibre-Lyte I believe so I will take a picture of it when it is here and next to a standard ring. I do believe their rings are a bit deeper which is why I have never had a dropped chain every with them while running 1 X 10 set ups.

How much did you pay for the custom ring?

Do you know if you can you customize the ovalness (major-minor ratio)?

I got it from an Australian company that does custom parts - www.fetha.com.au - cost me A$200 / ~US$180 plus shipping.

They can do any shape, I initially wanted a 54 Q-ring (10% ovality) but they had previously done drawings for a NW 54 Ossymetric shape so I just decided to try that.

Correct - yes a clutch derailleur may be safer, but so far I'm happy with my standard derailleur and I've ridden on some pretty rough roads with no issues.

Not sure about a 9sp chain - the added interior width of the chain plates may mean that it won't engage the teeth of a 10/11sp NW charinring as tightly and so may have higher risk of dropping.

Wolf Tooth recommends a 10spd chain even on a 9 speed drivetrain.

If you have experience with 1x setups do you think a 52 with 11-28 cassette setup would cover most areas without huge mountains/climbs?

53,39 with a 11-26 cassette. That being said I hardly ever drop down to the 39 unless it's a big hill and I'm really tired. I figure one less tooth on the front and two more in the rear might give me that just right mix.
My other idea is to use a 44 ring and a 10-? Cassette but am not sure if that would be enough top end.

11-28 will probably will be fine without big climbs.

A 52/28 gear is equivalent to a 39/21, so factor that into what is the highest gear you currently use.

54/32 gets me a 39/23 equivalent. I very rarely have to use the 32 on the rear, and I mostly only ever go up to the 28T cog. The 32 is there in reserve if I need it.

My issue and the reason for going with the smaller front ring is that I have many climbs that are 12%-14% just to get home. I am not willing to go with anything bigger than 28 on the back so the smaller front will be fine for me. I am currently running 11/23 with a 50/36 on the front so I should be fine with the 46t front and 11/28 rear. I know I am giving up some at the low end but not much at the top end.

In your case I would prefer to stay with a 2x and keep the smaller steps in the cassette.

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Some are born to move the world to live their fantasies...

https://triomultisport.com/
http://www.mjolnircycles.com/

It should be OK as a 50/12 is the same as a 46/11 and a 46/28 is a fraction larger than my 36/23. I do give up some spacing at the higher end but I will be in the lower range for most of my riding so I will have close jumps still. The only issue is that I will be missing my 16t which I love BUT I love it with my 50t front. With the 46t front I will be in my 15 more now.

11-23: 11-12-13-14-15-16 -17-19-21-23

11-28: 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-22-25-28

New ring arrived today so now all that is missing is my Black Friday purchase of 2 of the OMEGA X brakes.

Cool to see Audi tin the carbon fibre chainring market now, where do you make an order? :)

What crank is that?
You had a thread about repainting the frame a while back, right?
Could you put some pictures up of the full bike, would love to see your progress?
Just picked up a NP2 on a crazy discount and looking for insperation to spend the savings :)