Finished my custom blips. The ones on the extensions are pretty much just homemade Blip Clics, but I wanted something a bit more stealthy for the basebar.

I got the blipbox mounted under my custom BTA mount. Probably not the most aero way of mounting it, but it will work for now. Last item on the To Do list is design a cover for the bottom of the stem. It's a Felt Bayonet off an IA FRD. Shouldn't be too hard.



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Strava

Wow! Nice job on those shifters! Very clean install.

I just 'finished' my latest build...still have to work on the brake cover and the p5 beard. Drivetrain is etap wifli RD with 50t and 11-36t. Had to use a road link to clear the 36t.

Can you elaborate on the basebar buttons. Very nice.

Here's mine....



Sorry... couldn't resist... DO IT IN THE DIRT (oh, and don't fall down, you might cut yourself on those killer rotors..) ;-)

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http://www.SpeedyLizard.com

Beautiful build!

Did you have to do some grinding to get the rotor ring to play nice with your quarq? I tried mounting one and had some clearance issues with the ring.

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"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro."
Hunter S. Thompson

I own an IA10 with I think the same crankset as yourself. Is it just a case of removing the existing chain rings and adding a narrow wide x sync? Any other tweaks required?

Yup. I couldn't find anything that said otherwise. In fact, I chose the X-Sync specifically for that reason since it is offset to keep the correct chainline.

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Strava

That looks great! I have that ring in the 40 tooth flavor for my CX bike and it was great. Fits perfectly on a Power2max spider. I have been keeping an eye out for a 50 for the tri bike.

I'll put something up later this week. I want to make it look pretty for my design portfolio first.

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Strava

Yes. I had to cut a notch in order to clear the battery compartment.

Thanks. I lucked out on that 50t from the ST classifieds. Awesome price too.

P2 with a bunch of SRAM Force 1x stuff and a Zipp Vuka Stealth cockpit:

I built my 1x with a Force22 crankset. The 1x chainring comes with mounting hardware (I think) to mount to Force22, essentially take up the slack of the missing small chain ring. I believe the Force22 and 1x cranks are the same... outside of the chain rings. I bought my 1x from someone and had to buy the bolts separately as they lost the bolts or something.... was less than $10 for them. I also bought a 130mm spider since I'm toying with front chain ring size... easy to replace on the Force crankset as well. FWIW, I think a S900 would work as well, non-hidden bolt Force crank set.

Thinking my sweet spot is going to be with my 170mm Force cranks with a 54t and 11-28 out back.

Any 11 speed chain will work with eTap... Shimano, KMC, SRAM... whatever floats your boat.

My road bike for drafting allowed races. I ride a 48 or 50 chain ring and switch between an 11-36 or 11-32 cassette.

Super excited to be doing my first sprint race of the year. Also the first time my son and I will be doing the same event together.

I have finally finished the P2C SL build and no changes planned for a while. 14.99 lbs as shown race ready. I really like how the aero bottle feels between my arms with the narrow armrest set up.

Why do you need a bottle for a sprint?

I guess it comes down to needs vs wants. I do not need any water for a 20km ride and I do not need any water for a 5km run. I do find that while I am riding my mouth is dry and I like to have a couple of sips of water out on the course. Same goes for the run, I like to have a splash of water at the mid way point of the run.

There is ZERO aero penalty for taking the water with me. Also the course is a 4 loop event with 4 down hills and 4 uphills so I will take a couple of sips on the uphill portion.

ZERO aero penalty?

A wish or do you know that?

When I tested having a bottle between the arms on a track with Alphamantis I had an aero penalty. But this is of course individual.

Besides, that is based on maintaining the same position all the time. As soon as you break out of your aero position you will actually have a penalty.

And if you actually want a positive effect, research shows that taking a little sugary fluid and twirling it around in your mouth and spitting it out fools your brain to thinking that you can press yourself more, without engaging your stomach.

Took the bike out for a little 5km ride today to test the aero bottle and it leaked all over the front wheel. The valve is not sealing correctly in this position. I normally run my standard bottle cage and bottle but after changing to the new armrests I was not able to fit my standard set up.

So the bottle has been removed and I will be running this set up now and a little lighter now at 14.75 lbs.

True I have not tested that bottle yet so there could have been a penalty. As for holding position, I have to do 4 loops so I will be breaking position 7 times at the 180° turns.

I used to run that Aero Bottle from Elite between my arms for exactly 20k in a test ride.
I had to use the aero version, simply by the fact, that i ride pretty tight up front and a regular bottle couldn't fit between my arms....
While trying to get it out of the bottle cage it spilled all over the place, just because of the position and the need to push on the bottle to free it....I wouldn't recommend that bottle setup.
The main reason why a BTAsystem could save some watts is the "lower" pressure zone between your arms. Fill that and theoretically the pressure comes back to a normal level and the airflow is smoother...simplified but thats it :D

Sick looking bike either way!

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sent from my iPhone

That is exactly the issue that I had.

Thinking of converting my 2010 Fuji D6 from 12-25 with 39 and 53 rings to Sram Rival 1 11-36 cassette, Rival1 medium cage rear derailleur and wolf tooth 50 ring. My crank is 130BCD so my choices are pretty limited for 50 tooth, wanted Sram but they only go down to 52.
I could use a little easier gear for big hills and rarely need the 11/53 on the downhills.
Any downsides to this conversion? it would seem to meet my needs perfectly.

Nice! Are you running the rear brake behind the stem rather than straight into the downtube? Been toying with that idea on my Reacto. How is the braking? Any difference noticed?

Yup, that's it! No, not really different. Rear brake sucks ass... just like before! Maybe I should just change it for anothe Tririg Omega...