I rode 2x at Ultraman. The 56 is experimental - the reason for choosing it is that on most of the courses I race there are some fast sections where I'm hitting pretty high cadence when over 45 mph. My rotor Q rings help a bit with that but I could use some extra headroom. So 55 might be ok, but I'd like to push the edge a bit. Especially with course like Boulder, or in Kona going down Hawi there could be some extra benefit. I'm thinking of a mtb cassette with XTR di2 rear derailleur

---

____________________________________

Are you ready to do an Ultraman? | How I calculate Ironman race fueling | Strength Training for Athletes |

I went with a 48T aero ring from Fiberlyte and the 11-32T SRAM XG1090. I live and primarily race in the Pacific Northwest and so hills are a fact of life. I think this will be a good compromise as I rarely find myself spinning out on anything but the steepest descents with a 50x11.

Does the etap rear derailleur actually work with the 32???
SRAM quotes 28 as the max, but many have said a 30 can work. But everything I've read said 32 is a definite no go.


BTW, bike looks great!!

The new WiFli model gets you up to 32tooth coverage.

---

"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro."
Hunter S. Thompson

Didn't even think those were out yet!

Yep, PNW here as well. I've got Whistler and St. George halves on the calendar this year, not sure I could cut anything bigger than 50x11-32. Actually I'd probably like a 12-32 to tighten up the range a bit. I usually only use the 11 when I'm testing to see if my shifting is working properly.

---

------------------------------------------------------------
Any run that doesn't include pooping in someone's front yard is a win.

I'm rocking the OG etap rear derailleur. No WiFli here. I have a road link but I didn't install it initially to see how the drive train would handle 32T.

I did a very brief 10-min shake out ride in my neighborhood last night after I finished building. I was in the 48x32 combo when climbing up the steep hill I live on and the drive train seemed to be working fine. Admittedly, I wasn't pouring the watts on. I'm going to put the road link on tonight and give it another try to see if it feels like the drive train has less drag.

FYI - I'm running 1x with a 32x and the standard eTap rear. But do use the road link. It's doable with the standard eTap rear. But you'll find things much smoother with the road link.

---

"One Line Robert"

Thanks Robert. I'll report back after I install it.

Here is mine. Made the change before last season and love it.[/img][/img]

---

Twitter - Instagram

Chainring/cassette sizes, normal riding/racing terrain, and subjective cycling strength, please. Debating a switch like this myself, need data points.

---

------------------------------------------------------------
Any run that doesn't include pooping in someone's front yard is a win.

I live around Chicago so most of the training is done flat and most of my races are decently flat but can be very windy early season. I am running a 50 up front with 11/28 cassette. FTP is around 4 watt/kg depending...haven't tested in a while but coach and I are guessing 285ish. Have not had issues needing a gear or missing one in the middle with the cassette with 11/28.

---

Twitter - Instagram

New PHX2
Force 1
50T 165 crankset
11-36 cassette
R2C shifter
Used hed jet 6+

Platform pedals were for riding in the basement. Still need final fitting adjustments.

Never seen pavement. :-(

my 1x cannondale slice rs 54cm
52 round and q rings
cassette: 11-32 training and climbing, 11-25&11-28 for racing
shiv aero bars
r2c sram aluminum shifter
wifli rival rd
force crank with both spiders
renn prototype wide rim disc
flo 90 front wheel
custom designed and printed stemcap/cable guide
full build under $2000

---

ART, MDT, DNS, MPI, FST

I feel like I've asked this, but who made your chainring?

---

ART, MDT, DNS, MPI, FST

Guys at https://www.fetha.com.au/ made it up for me.

Here is my 1x build, which I have been running for over a year with no issues. Since I'm not a strong cyclist and we have a hilly terrain where I live and race I`m using a 48 up front and a 11sp 12-32 cassette.

A little hilly here in Utah and I'm not quite the beast the rest of you all seem to be so I will be running a 46t with a 11-28. I have a 11-32 if I need it but I don't anticipate that. It's not the best picture but gives you the idea.

Not a tri bike, but here is my 1x build. I love the Absolute Black 1x oval chainring.

Spooky Skeletor
SRAM Force 1 50 x 11-36
ENVE fork, seatpost and bar
Fizik R1 stem
Specialized Power Pro saddle
Reynolds Strike/Assault wheelset

Lovely build, I have the same bike that I'm planning to convert to 1x. It's not clear from the picture but what did you do with the attachment for the front derailleur?

It's still there. I'd have drilled it out if I were keeping the frame, but alas am forced to change.

Can you please a close up picture of your FD area.

Sure when I get time, but is just the hanger bolted tothe frame, so not terribly interesting.

Sorry, I thought you said you removed the hanger by drilling it out.

Has anyone removed a FD hanger that is not bolted onto the frame? I am thinking of drilling out the rivets but not sure about the bonding?

I drilled out the rivets on the hanger of my Speed Concept. It is also bonded. Sad!

---

/kj

http://kjmcawesome.tumblr.com/