Having two actually serves more purpose than just convenience...

I like to train on hills. But most of my races are on the flatish side (with a few very notable exceptions) So I like having the cassette with the granny gears on my training wheel (I believe it's an 11-25 or close to that) and the harder gearing on my race wheel (in the area of 11-21... not sure the exact count... gearheads could correct me)

But if you're racing/training on different terrains... It's helpful to have at least one "climbing" cassette and one suited for flatter courses.

Each of the rear wheels has its own cassette and skewers. I use only 12-21 8 speed and one 12-18 7 speed (Zipp 3000).

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Paul

You've got to have a cassette for each of your wheels. I can't imagine changing the cassette every time I changed a wheel. The good thing is that you'll build up a number of different cassettes; 11-21, 12-23, 12-25. Then if you marry a triathlete she will have 12-23, 12-25, 12-27(she got the 27 for Nice). I'm lazy. when I put the disc on my bike, it stays there for a while. If I had to change cassettes with the wheels, I'd never do it.

I'll tell you, with all these 9 speed cassettes, we're never switching to 10 speed!

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''Sweeney - you can both crush your AG *and* cruise in dead last!! 😂 '' Murphy's Law

barefoot,

You definitely will benefit from having a cassette on each rear wheels. Surprise flat when you get ready to take the bike out for a ride, just swap the wheel.

With similar wheels, you may want to have different gear ranges on the cassettes, i.e., a climbing wheel, a rolling terrain wheel and a flat ride wheel. Ultimately, this will enable you to reduce the number of times you must change the cassette.

Personally, I have three bikes, a road bike, a touring bike and a time trial bike, all with a set of wheels and ready to ride. All with cassettes, too. I also have at least 4 additional rear wheels, maybe more, all with cassettes mounted. A Renn 575 disc with 11-23 10 spd cassette, a pair of Hed3 Tri Spokes with 11-23 cassette, at least two 32 spoke open pro training wheels, maybe three, one with 13-26 the othe with 13-29, if there is a third it has 11-23. The Hed3 Tri Spokes and the Renn disc are race wheels only.

Changing a cassette is not difficult, it just takes a little time. But swapping out a wheel is always faster.

I wouldn't think of buying another rear wheel without putting a cassette on it.

Just my own experience here.

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Ben Cline


Better to aspire to Greatness and fail, than to not challenge one's self at all, and succeed.

As far a wear issues are concerned, you should have separate cassettes AND chains for each cassette/chainring combination--but this is not always possible. In all honesty, if you were viligant, and could do the work yourself, this would save you money inthe loing run. But if your paying someone to swap them, or you are lazy about it, it doesn't nake much difference.

If I might venture an opinion, the SRAM (9 spd) cassettes are about the same cost as ultegra, but weigh a scant grams more than dura-ace. Also, they can be restacked (completely) so you can extend their length and build blocks as you see fit. For 10 spd, well, that stuff is going to be expensive for a while--sorry. eddie.

I don't work for sram, or sell there products anymore. This is just something I picked up from working in a shop for a few years.

I have 2 rear wheels and 2 cassettes but I also swap them back and forth depending on what I need at the time. I have an 11-23 for hilly and 12-21 for flat to rolling.

In a perfect world if you have two or three sets of wheels, you would have a cassette on each wheel, but that is an additional $100 or so perwheel. However, changing a casssette these days is not a big deal if you have the right tools. It sounds like you struggled to change yours. Where you using the right tools.?With a good chain-whip and the right cassette removal tool, I find that changing cassettes takes a couple of minutes - tops.

Fleck

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Steve Fleck @stevefleck | Blog

not wanting to hijack this thread with my question but here goes:

When I switch from my racing wheel (12 - 25 DA) to my training wheel (11-23 Ult) the shifting is terrible. Is this because of:

1. different cassette sizes

2. different wear on the cassettes (the training one is significantly older but seems fine)

3. something else I haven't thought of

With my training wheel on I cannot seem to adjust my rear der. to give me decent shifting. Very frustrating - please help.

robert

Definitely keep a cassette on each wheel. I train on 12-25, race on 11-23. You do have to be careful about chain wear, however. Best bet is to have a complete bike for each set of gears!!

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Cousin Elwood - Team Over-the-hill Racing
Brought to you by the good folks at Metamucil and Geritol...

Here is my system. It should work for you and other riders.

I have a road bike, a TT bike, and four sets of rear wheels among them. Each bike has a set of training wheels with Campagnolo Chorus cassettes. My racing wheels have Campagnolo Record rear cassettes. I have 12-25 and 11-21 racing cassettes and both of my training cassettes are 11-23. I end up replacing each training cassette about every other and I change the chains on each bike an average of once a year. By using interchangable wheels on my road and tri bikes and changing my chains and cassettes regularly, everything works well together. it also give me a lot of options.



-Marc

RAinBC,

I'm a Campy advocate, not a Shimano authority. But I'll try.

!. With such a small change in gear spread, a terrible change in shifting performance is surprising. Switching from DA to Ultegra cassettes should not make that big a difference if any at all. It doesn't for Chorus and Record anyway.

2. This may be where the problem is. Look at the cassette closely. The smaller cogs usually show the most wear first because there are fewer teeth to spread the wear over. If they begin to look a bit like a shark tooth, a little more hooked on one side than the other side, then excessive wear is probably the issue. A new Ultegra cassette is less than $75.00 and I would be inclined to go this route and try it to see if that made a big improvement. You're going to need a new cassette when you wear one out which will happen as a consequence of riding your bike. So its not like you would be wasting your money.

3. I am presuming that you are familiar with making the small adjustments to you shifting to tune out noise or to correct mis-shifting. If you are not, then this may also be a part of the problem. When shifting from one wheel to another, especially when each wheel has a different brand hub, it is not uncommon to have to make slight adjustments to fine tune the shifting.

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Ben Cline


Better to aspire to Greatness and fail, than to not challenge one's self at all, and succeed.

thanks Ben,

i will try swapping out the cassette first and see how that goes. all the fine tuning of rear dr hasn't helped yet. thanks again for the advice.

robert