Colin, I'm certainly not in the category of Francois, but, they are complimentary, they do come with an integrated BB which may require a little "curing time" for the locktite the first time they are set up, and I THINK most people use the same size cranks as regular cranks.

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Quid quid latine dictum sit altum videtur
(That which is said in Latin sounds profound)

With just one bike you can forget to use both cranks. Too much work changing the RC plus you cannot ride them right after you install them. Go to the rotorcranks website, maybe you can find the installation manual.

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�The greater danger for most of us is not that our aim is too high and we miss it, but that it is too low and we reach it.� -Michelangelo

MoodBoost Drink : Mood Support + Energy.

Colin, I can answer some of your questions:

#1 - I don't own PCs so can answer that part of your question.

#2 - You asked several things in this one. Installation requires a cup on the left side (where the bearing sits) and this has to be loc-tited in place. As long as you only use BLUE loc-tite, it's not too bad getting them out. DO NOT, DO NOT use red loc-tite!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If you have not installed cranks before, best to have your shop do it (you can print the directions from the web). You have to split the difference when turning in the right side of the crank. Too far in, and getting to the smallest rear cog can mean a rubbing derail. Too far out and getting to the inner rear cog gets touchy.

Last year I trained and raced on my RCs. This didn't work for me as my quads alwasy got smoked during races. By the end of the season I went back to regular cranks for racing and had great results.

This year I am doing all me training with my RCs (road bike) but will race my tri bike with conventional cranks. The RCs seem to really strengthen my quads but they've been counterproductive to my racing. This is merely my "real world" experience.

#3 - yes, you will use the same crank length as you use for "conventional" cranks

(bump) Are you around, Gary?

-C

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Any run that doesn't include pooping in someone's front yard is a win.

Hi CCF,

I'll answer your questions below.

How are RC's installed?

>> Details here: http://rotorcranksusa.com/...rs4xinstallation.pdf

I know they come with an integrated BB, but I saw some posts talking about gluing and curing times. What's the deal with that?

>> Blue threadlocker is required on the BB shell threads during initial installation, it is included with the system

Are they hard to remove?

>> Not much more difficult than a standard set of cranks

Do you train much on the RC's, or just race (after the initial adaptation, of course)? I ask because I was thinking that it would be best to spend most of the time on PC's with 1 or 2 rides a week on the RC's. But if it's very hard to change out the cranks and BB's, this wouldn't be practical.

>> I train 100% on Rotors, some riders that have PC's will ride them once per week and Rotors the rest of the time.

Do people usually use the same length RC as their standard road crank?

>> Yes

Francois is pretty busy now with training, but he can probably fill you in more on question #1 if you PM him.