no pics...but I ran mine exactly like the one on my road bike. Note, I did not use the actual cadence sensor. If I did, I would run the whole cable down the DT and the rear sensor to the chainstay not the seatstay.



Hope that helps.

Kurt

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http://www.pbmcoaching.com
USA Triathlon Level 3 Elite Coach
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thanks. do you know if there is any way to run the cable internally? I don't think so but I thought I would ask.

thanks again

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�The greater danger for most of us is not that our aim is too high and we miss it, but that it is too low and we reach it.� -Michelangelo

MoodBoost Drink : Mood Support + Energy.

You would have to drill out the grommets through which the derailleur cable runs, cut the PT cable, run it through the holes, and splice it. Not for the faint of heart; Cervelo recommended drilling the grommets.

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"Go yell at an M&M"

 

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�The greater danger for most of us is not that our aim is too high and we miss it, but that it is too low and we reach it.� -Michelangelo

MoodBoost Drink : Mood Support + Energy.

sounds like a little project that's worth the time. I would hate to have that cable routed externally.

just called Saris/Cycleops and they told me that the cable only consist of two wires. So that shouldn't be a big deal.

would be really nice if the frame had one additional grommet for powermeter, cadence sensor cables, etc. Don't know if newer P3's already have an additional one, if not, this could be a minor improvement in future frames.

did you drill the plastic grommets on your frame? It looks like one has two options:

a) drill a bigger hole over the existing one

b) drill an additional one.



I think that drilling an additional one (at an angle) is the way to go. Drilling the existing one bigger might not keep the metal cap at the end of the cable in place anymore.

Now, once all this is done I will have to route the cables. How do I route 2 shifting cables plus the 2 Powertap cables (sensor & cadence) internally without making a mess? I want a *clean* job, anything less doesn't cut it for me. Any ideas?



I will post pictures once all this is done and my machine is race ready.



thanks,



daniel


** good that I always Ctrl+C before I send my messages! ***

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�The greater danger for most of us is not that our aim is too high and we miss it, but that it is too low and we reach it.� -Michelangelo

MoodBoost Drink : Mood Support + Energy.

I have a P2K with the cable from my Tune PT (no cadence) receiver running up the seat stay and under the top tube, so no drilling for me.

A suggestion I might make is to attach threads to each of your shift cables before removing them, so that when you do remove them you have a thread that runs the length of the down tube. You can use this thread to pull the PT wires into and through the holes (beats fishing them out!).

Good luck with your project.

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"Go yell at an M&M"