x2!

I want to know if I can just use the spider and use my own chainring(s). If they offer that for $599, I'm in.

What I really want is to be able to add power to a bike while replacing the fewest (cheapest) parts possible. I already have wheels, a crank, pedals, etc.

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/kj

http://kjmcawesome.tumblr.com/

I think the meter is part of the chain ring. You have to replace the ring. But chain ring is THE cheapest part on your bike.
Unless glue them to the crank arm like 4iiii

Right now the Quarq Riken AL is the winner in my book at $800 (with no chainrings).

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/kj

http://kjmcawesome.tumblr.com/

Sounds like an intriguing product, but it is unfortunate that it is not compatible with any of the latest edition Shimano cranks (5800, 6800, 7800, or 9000). Seems like a weird marketing choice to make given the popularity of Shimano cranks. Hopefully they will add compatibility with those in the near future after the other users work all the bugs out of the system...

https://www.powertap.com/...nk-compatibility.pdf

The Riken AL seems to be in that same category, so not really a game changer. The C1 seems like a great option if you're already running a 110 BCD crank...not so much if you're running 130 BCD (or newer shimano as noted above) currently. Always good for the consumers to have more options though.

I have a Sram Force 110 BCD crank lying around which was a take off when I got my Quarq 975. Might be a pretty good option for me to add power to both bikes now and make use of that crank.

Looking for some reviews as well. I'd like to upgrade my original Quarq

- from 50/34 to 52/36
- with the addition of Bluetooth
- and L/R balance

The C1 looks like it might be perfect, assuming I can replace the chain rings in my Quarq without destroying the crank. (I understand that the Quarq itself wouldn't be saved.)

I just got new 110 carbon crank arm. Can't wait....

They do offer a chainring only option without the power spider for $200 (clever training has this option on their order page - clicked through from the DC rainmaker first look), so it is at least possible replace those without buying a new unit. Also, with the discount code DCR10LFW from Ray's blog, you can get the full set (with chainrings) for $630. Or the Riken AL for $720. That one is seriously tempting since it comes with 110 or 130 BCD options.

Looks like the shipping date is pushed back to 09/16/2015 now?

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Next races on the schedule: none at the moment

...not if you change your chain often enough.

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

I have a shark finned Vision chain ring that saw maybe 10,000kms and one Ultegra and two KMC X10SL chains.

OK...maybe I should add "and if the ring is of good quality" ;-)

edit: Of course, implicit in the "change the chain often enough" statement is that it is changed before wear elongates it. So, depending on the conditions and how well you keep the chain clean, 3 chains in 10,000km may, or may not, be "enough".

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

Quote:

unfortunate that it is not compatible with any of the latest edition Shimano cranks (5800, 6800, 7800, or 9000)

I'd have to agree, and also it doesn't work with any of the new SRAM 22 cranks. Or Campy (Europe!) My guess is Powertap wanted to get it out the door quicker, and once they get going can produce other versions. I'd like to see a version that works with 130BCD cranks first though...

aside from cost why would the chainring pm be more desireable than the pedal version? will it be easier to swap? more accurate?

I have a sram red exogram (110mm). They don't list it on their compatibility list, but I'm assuming it's not compatible due to the hidden bolt design (same as the sram 22 series cranks)?

There really aren't many cranks that these rings will work with - mainly lower end stuff and older products - strange design choice for sure!

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Yep, SRAM hidden bolt is currently incompatible, though I think with some tweaking they can make them work in the future. And actually, there are way more compatible cranks than not; just the newer, high end stuff is a no go.

I agree, there are lots of cranks that are compatible, but I would think a good chunk of their potential customers would have newer higher end cranks and/or 130 bolt.

I'll assume they plan to roll out more rings in the near future that will fit newer cranks and 130 bolt.

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How often would you say is "often enough" in terms of miles for road riding? I realize that's not a fair question; There are too many variables. But I honestly have zero idea and am looking for a rough ballpark. How often would you change yours?

I also realize I can buy a stretch measuring tool and all that, but I'm sort of looking for an experienced riders rule-of-thumb. If I had to guess, I would say that until now I have probably been changing mine every 3,000 - 4,000 miles or so...

Mine gets changed at intervals of ~2-3K miles...BUT, I wipe my chain down with a WD-40 soaked rag after each ride and don't ride much in dust/dirt. In other words, I keep the chain fairly clean.

I actually just use a steel 12" ruler as my "chain checker". I put it up to the bottom run of the chain, and line up the left edge of the ruler with the right edge of a pin. I then look to see if any of the pin on the right edge of the ruler is "peeking out" from the edge. When it gets to ~1/4 of the pin diameter revealed (at most), I'll swap the chain out. It's that simple.

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

Sounds good. I'll try that. Thanks!

I would submit that you are doing more harm with the WD-40 than you are good by keeping the chain clean. I get the same mileage out of a chain (around 3000 miles) and I do nothing but apply wax lube and wipe it clean once in a while, and I really beat my bike up - crit racing, training in the heat and humidity, riding through the occasional rain storm, and the dreaded spring time sand all over the road miles. I'm sure my bike thinks I hate it.

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"...the street finds its own uses for things"

I'm NOT spraying the chain down with WD-40, I'm merely wetting a rag with some so that it acts as a slight solvent on the accumulated grime. I just spray some into the rag, let it soak in, wrap it around the chain on the lower run with my hand and pedal the cranks backwards a bit. The majority of the chain lube stays within the pins and bushings and the WD-40 leaves a thin layer of silicone on the outer surfaces of the chain.

Every week or so, I re-apply the lube (RnR Purple) and wipe that down after application as well.

The drivetrain stays VERY clean externally.

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/