Keep it on your wrist, if a couple seconds of speed data get dropped when you reach for food it really isn't a big deal.

Keep it in the bike mode, when you run and swim it will record your speed as 0.0, but when you ride all the data will be there. Also this way you don't need to do anything to the HRM during the race.

DB

Like Burger said, just keep it on your wrist, you won't lose much, if any data, and you won't lose time, or risk dropping it.

I race with it in Basic mode. I did IMMOO with a friend's S520 and set the limits, of course when I was hurting and my HR dropped below the limit, it started beeping, and I didn't know how to turn off the beep.

Before I leave transition for the start, I put my S710i in Measure mode and make sure it has my HR and is picking up my speed and cadence. I am not sure it makes a difference, but it might because of the coded transmitters.

If it's on your wrist, how often do you look at it while on the bike? Not at all (all RPE for the race)? Can you read it from your aerobars? Curious.

Ken

Just move the watch so the face is on the inside of your wrist while you're on the bike. Having it there while down on your aerobars puts it in a position that's not too far off from having it mounted on your bars.

Jeff

I look at it every so often to double check how I feel against the numbers. I look for trends for than absolute numbers. I know my HR is high coming out of the water and through transition (big spike), so I watch for it to drop some at the beginning of the bike, before I start pushing. After that, I just make sure it isn't rising too much or too fast.

totally agree with what everybody else has said, and would add. If you set both spd and cad sensors to high. there are very few places where you'll lose the signal. any loss can also be cleaned up after you download data using error correction function in PPP.

I have speed sensor mounted on my rear wheel and I get speed reading whilst on my areobars or cowhorns with watch on my wrist.

I have noticed lose of cad (sensor also on high) when on my cowhorns. I think it has to do with sensor orietantion and the signal just isn't directed that far away from center of bike. Becuase speed sensor is mounted vertically (90 degree different orientation) on rear chainstay and I get speed on cowhorns.

Jim

As others have said, leave it on your wrist and leave it in bike mode the whole time. It will automatically pick up the speed and cadence signal when you get off the bike. One thing to note- make sure you turn the "autostart" feature off, otherwise it will stop itself on the swim since it won't pick up a speed signal.

How do I set my cadence sensor on high?

Thanks,

Geoff

http://www.pursuit-performance.com.au/...CForumID7/40.html#10

This tells you step by step how to do it. Its works great, especially if you want to place the sensor on the rear wheel.

I wouldn't say it works great. It works sometimes. It depends on your frame size, position on the bike, and arm length. I set my cadence sensor to high, but I still only get cadence signal on my 710i about 50% of the time when I'm wearing it on my wrist and I'm in the aero bars. I'm riding a 55cm P3 at 80 degrees with size large Syntace C2's, so my wrist is quite a ways from the sensor, even though it's mounted as far forward on the left chainstay as I can get it. I can't mount it on the seat tube or downtube on this bike because of the tube shapes. I'm currently not using the downtube bottle mount, so I'm thinking about butchering an old bottle cage and making it a cadence sensor holder to get the sensor further forward. We'll see how that little experiment works.

Polar has information on extending the allowed distance of the speed and cadence sensors. You may want to try it. http://www.polarusa.com/service_repair/show_faq_con.asp?ID=26 Tom