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New bike fit during lockdown
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My wife and I got our Quintana Roo PRfive (rim) bikes delivered yesterday (ordered before the current insanity started), and I'm trying to determine how to best go about fitting them (obviously we can't go visit our normal fitter or LBS). I've got our measurements from our current road bikes (these are our first tri bikes), and I've been reading all the fit guides. I've also found a couple iOS apps which show promise. I've been riding long enough to know what feels right, but I was wondering if anyone had any experience with either this app (http://bikefastfit.com) or any other recommendations.

Thanks!

- John
"Have courage, and be kind."
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Re: New bike fit during lockdown [OtterJohn] [ In reply to ]
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Quote:
My wife and I got our Quintana Roo PRfive (rim) bikes delivered yesterday (ordered before the current insanity started), and I'm trying to determine how to best go about fitting them (obviously we can't go visit our normal fitter or LBS). I've got our measurements from our current road bikes (these are our first tri bikes), and I've been reading all the fit guides. I've also found a couple iOS apps which show promise. I've been riding long enough to know what feels right, but I was wondering if anyone had any experience with either this app (http://bikefastfit.com) or any other recommendations.

Thanks!


John,

Stoked for you. I wanna help any way I can. I know the BikeFastFit app, I use it, I like it. It can help but I think we can work through this together for a bit before you put it to work. As an intro - I run this thread https://forum.slowtwitch.com/...ng=ianpeace#p7001408

So - do you have a trainer in which you can clamp your new QR and raise the front wheel to get it level?
If you can do that then let's start with your seat height. You know your seat height from you road bike - it wont be EXACTLY that but it'll be close so get that seat height in place and get back to me here. We'll do the 'set-back' next.

Ian

Ian Murray
http://www.TriathlonTrainingSeries.com
I like the pursuit of mastery
Twitter - @TriCoachIan
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Re: New bike fit during lockdown [ianpeace] [ In reply to ]
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Ian, thanks a ton (in advance) for your help. Yup, both new bikes are leveled on Wahoo KICKR SNAP trainers in preparation for fit adjustments (can't do it on a work stand!).

My bike:
New bike, size: 52cm
Old bike seat height: 730mm

My wife's bike:
New bike, size: 48cm
Old bike seat height: 650mm

Seat height measured from the center of bottom bracket to top of saddle, following the seat post. I'm basing my measurement positions off the "Bike Fit Manager" diagram on my ST profile page (filling in values there as we go, too).

- John
"Have courage, and be kind."
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Re: New bike fit during lockdown [OtterJohn] [ In reply to ]
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The other measurements from your road bikes aren't important in fitting you guys to the time trial bikes.
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Re: New bike fit during lockdown [OtterJohn] [ In reply to ]
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I would suggest that even the seat height from your road bike will not necessarily translate over perfectly to your PR5 for two reasons:

1. Your 52 cm PR5 and your wife's 48 cm bike both have 165 mm crank lengths. Unless your road bikes both had 165 mm cranks (which is very unlikely), you are going to need to adjust the seat height on the PR5s. If the road bikes have cranks longer than 165 mm, you may be better off measuring the road bike's seat height from the center of the pedal spindle (while in the 6 o'clock position) up to the top of the seat; and then transferring that measurement to the PR5. By doing this, you allow for the variance in crank length between the road bike and PR5.

2. The ISM saddle that came on your PR5 is very different than what you probably have on your road bike. If you position the ISM the way it was designed to be ridden (with saddle rails level), then you'll notice there is a fairly significant downward slope from the back to the front of the saddle's top surface. If you measure to the highest point (at the rear), you get a much different number than if you measure to some point closer to the front of the saddle. It's kind of a crapshoot when it comes to choosing which specific point on the saddle top that you measure from. I prefer to measure to the saddle rails when transferring my seat height from one bike to the next...as long as I am using an ISM on both bikes.

In summary...unless the crank length and saddle style are the same between two bikes, saddle height (when measured from BB center to saddle top) may not translate perfectly. You can get the seat height pretty close doing it that way, but don't hesitate to adjust things up/down a bit get it better.

I can't claim to be an expert in any of this stuff. It's just that I took delivery of my 52 cm PR5 two weeks ago. So, I've spent quite a bit of time lately doing exactly what you are doing now. So far, I've swapped to longer stem, which involved re-cabling all but the front brake, and re-routing the shift cables so they exit out the back of the extensions instead of the middle. I've cut the excess steerer tube above the stem, which was unusual because it had a star nut and an aluminum sleeve inside the carbon steerer tube instead of a conventional expander plug.

If you run into any other issues and don't have anyone else to ask, don't hesitate to reach out.
Last edited by: Signal8: Mar 25, 20 18:01
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Re: New bike fit during lockdown [Signal8] [ In reply to ]
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Signal8 wrote:
I would suggest that even the seat height from your road bike will not necessarily translate over perfectly to your PR5 for two reasons:

1. Your 52 cm PR5 and your wife's 48 cm bike both have 165 mm crank lengths. Unless your road bikes both had 165 mm cranks (which is very unlikely), you are going to need to adjust the seat height on the PR5s. If the road bikes have cranks longer than 165 mm, you may be better off measuring the road bike's seat height from the center of the pedal spindle (while in the 6 o'clock position) up to the top of the seat; and then transferring that measurement to the PR5. By doing this, you allow for the variance in crank length between the road bike and PR5.

2. The ISM saddle that came on your PR5 is very different than what you probably have on your road bike. If you position the ISM the way it was designed to be ridden (with saddle rails level), then you'll notice there is a fairly significant downward slope from the back to the front of the saddle's top surface. If you measure to the highest point (at the rear), you get a much different number than if you measure to some point closer to the front of the saddle. It's kind of a crapshoot when it comes to choosing which specific point on the saddle top that you measure from. I prefer to measure to the saddle rails when transferring my seat height from one bike to the next...as long as I am using an ISM on both bikes.

In summary...unless the crank length and saddle style are the same between two bikes, saddle height (when measured from BB center to saddle top) may not translate perfectly. You can get the seat height pretty close doing it that way, but don't hesitate to adjust things up/down a bit get it better.

I can't claim to be an expert in any of this stuff. It's just that I took delivery of my 52 cm PR5 two weeks ago. So, I've spent quite a bit of time lately doing exactly what you are doing now. So far, I've swapped to longer stem, which involved re-cabling all but the front brake, and re-routing the shift cables so they exit out the back of the extensions instead of the middle. I've cut the excess steerer tube above the stem, which was unusual because it had a star nut and an aluminum sleeve inside the carbon steerer tube instead of a conventional expander plug.

If you run into any other issues and don't have anyone else to ask, don't hesitate to reach out.

Thanks for the insights, that helps a lot. I measured from the bottom bracket; my road bike had 170mm cranks, my wife's was 165mm (the same as the PRfive).

- John
"Have courage, and be kind."
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