Don't shift crank gears going uphill. Pick one

I also had some issues with dropping the chain on a set of oval rings. Added a chain catcher as a "fix".

Questions - did you change chains when installing the new crankset? Did you adjust your front derailleur at all?

I am talking about going downhill from the 34t back up to the 50t. No issues going down before a climb

I did not change the chain when installing the new crankset, maybe it is time for a new chain? The bike shop adjusted the front derailleur when they installed the crankset.

Could be. Certainly worth checking it for wear.

Is the chain dropping off to the inside or being thrown past the big ring and on to the crank arm?

The chain line of your new crankset may be off a bit from your old one. If this is the case, look into if there are any shimming options available to mimic your original chain line. If there isn't and the chain line is off, double check your chain clearance to the front derailleur cage is set to just barely not contact the chain when you're in the small ring up front & big cog on the rear. If this limit screw is set like this, you shouldn't be dropping chains inside of your smallest chain ring.

Have your shop set up your FD again. The limit screw(s) are off.

Or do it yourself it’s really not that hard..
Have never found that Oval Chainrings shift well though.

Which version of the rear derailleur do you have?

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Also make sure your chain is not too long. There's more slack in the chain if it's too long and that increases your risk of the chain coming off. If you can swing it, might not hurt to remove a link and see if it's better. (You can get quicklinks to rejoin it at original length if it doesn't work out.)

Its being thrown past the big ring onto the crank arm every time.

I have the SRAM Red eTap rear derailleur model ID RD-RED-E-A2

Well, that's not it then! Had to check, the older short cage version of the 11 speed derailleur could cause problems like this with the cassette you're using.

Can you post some photos of your front derailleur setup?

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Sram is know for this issue just google it
You’ll see it happen constantly in TDF coverage and also many pros dropping chains in the pro ranks in coverage
If the TDF mechanics can’t fix it then it’s a serious issue for sram
Hence why sram are pushing for 1x set up as there front derailer is rubbish
You problem is made worse with the rotors chainrings

Just don’t buy any bike with sram
Shimano Di2 is the only option

Serious question . . . really?

Unfortunately, this is also my exact opinion.

Had to sell my favorite bike because the SRAM front derailleur is garbage. Constantly dropping chains inside and out. Smaller crankset helped a little but never could get it sorted out. Even the warranty mechanic was like "yep, thats SRAM for ya". Very comforting, buying a 6k bike only to have it not work.

I'll never stay from Shimano again.

Try chain catcher.

https://www.amazon.com/...0108278999&psc=1

I had this problem with same drivetrain on a new bike. Added a chain catcher and went to a better SRAM authorized mechanic, and problem solved

I have an Ultegra mechanic shift and dropped the chain a couple of times in the front. Added this and voila. Problem solved. It’s fool proof and must have on any bikes.