Agree on the SRAM for drivetrain...especially since staying with 1:1 actuation allows you to run MTB derailleurs with road shifters. For example, I'm running 10sp Red shift levers with a Force FD (I've got a standard road 53/39 crankset on my Fuji) with a 10sp MTB derailleur w/clutch (I forget the model) on the rear. That way I can run a Sunrace 12-42 cassette :-)
For brakes, don't let the "hydro snobs" fool you...to be honest, a quality, well set up mechanical disc work just as well. For example, I'm using TRP Spyres (which move both pads) and have them connected with solid Jagwire Link housings. That combo gives up nothing power or modulation or "light lever feel" as compared to hyrdraulics. There are other mechanical stoppers that work extremely well, such as the Paul's Klampers...that said, the opinion that mechanical actuation isn't as good as hydraulic seems to have originated from early use of the BB7 road calipers, which only push one pad and rely on disc flexing. Obviously, that's not "ideal"...
Speaking of the pads, the only feature of hydro that the mechanicals don't have is automatic pad wear adjustment. Every once in awhile you have to manually turn the barrel adjuster and bring them in. BUT, that also points out something the hydros don't allow...in the case of accidentally bending a rotor and having it out of true, with a hydro it's going to rub...with mechanical, you can just back out the spacing a bit. Also, I've seen where one piston of a hydro will get stuck and rub (usually due to grime). Never seen that with mechanical.
Just my 2 centavos.