Oh, man! Me too! I am looking at Di2 8070 or eTap, but eTap seems to be like $800 more.... ouch.

Are hydro disc brakes worth it? Is it easier to route the cables?

Anyone?

-Eric

Hydro brakes are way smoother and worth it in my opinion, especially if you are comparing disc brakes that are cable actuated compared to hydro disc brakes. I had my crux with avid cable actuated disc brakes and they sucked. The sram red hydro brakes are way better. My Roubaix has the Shimano 785 brakes and they work well, but the rear has been shuttering and making noise when it’s wet. That could be setup, I don’t know for sure.

Hydraulic disc brakes can/should provide superior breaking in comparison with cable actuated disc. If nothing else, it's much easier to squeeze.

No, it's not easier to route hydraulic housing. If anything it's a little harder than routing cables through frames.

No, it's not easier to set up hydraulic lines with fluid. On occasion, I've struggled to get that last bubble of air out of the brake lines to achieve that firm hydraulic feel.

The differences between the 6870 and 8070 brifters is the hood shape and that the 8070’s also have an extra port or two for shifter accessories. They may also include D-Fly programmable buttons for flipping bile comouter screens, etc.

Universal Cycles has 785 brifters and brakes on sale currently for $249 which is a super deal.

Just adding to the above. There's two ports each on the newer Ultegra ones, so it's a best less complicated to run that bar end junction box. It's not too hard either way.

I'm one of the few that loves the hood shape of the 785 levers. The Ultegra di2 hydro 8070 levers are also really good. Kinda of a wider base that triangulates a little more towards the levers on the 8070. I also *feel* that there's less brake lever free throw before the pads bite in the newer stuff. The 785 is almost too cheap to ignore though.

I have the 785's on my cross/gravel bike and the 8070 on my road bike. Outside of what has already been mentioned, can't say I "feel" much difference in the hood design. Biggest difference for me is more software related. I really like the shift design with the 8070 that prevents cross chain.....automatically shifts the front when your going to cross chain and shifts the back to match the next gear ratio. I thought this was kind of a gimmick at first, but now I'm definitively a fan.

[/quote]

I have the 785's on my cross/gravel bike and the 8070 on my road bike. Outside of what has already been mentioned, can't say I "feel" much difference in the hood design. Biggest difference for me is more software related. I really like the shift design with the 8070 that prevents cross chain.....automatically shifts the front when your going to cross chain and shifts the back to match the next gear ratio. I thought this was kind of a gimmick at first, but now I'm definitively a fan.[/quote]




So, are you saying that you basically never have to shift your front chainring? For instance, you are on your small front chainring and you are upshifting on the rear... when you get to the point of cross chaining, the front shifts to the big ring and your rear downshifts to the cog that would give you the ratio that would be your next upshift?

There are two different syncho modes - full and semi.

https://www.bikeexchange.com/...g-settings-explained

Full is more like a 1x setup while semi helps maintain the same cadence while you're shifting the front.

I have the 785's on my cross/gravel bike and the 8070 on my road bike. Outside of what has already been mentioned, can't say I "feel" much difference in the hood design. Biggest difference for me is more software related. I really like the shift design with the 8070 that prevents cross chain.....automatically shifts the front when your going to cross chain and shifts the back to match the next gear ratio. I thought this was kind of a gimmick at first, but now I'm definitively a fan.[/quote]




So, are you saying that you basically never have to shift your front chainring? For instance, you are on your small front chainring and you are upshifting on the rear... when you get to the point of cross chaining, the front shifts to the big ring and your rear downshifts to the cog that would give you the ratio that would be your next upshift?[/quote]
Bingo! You could really go without ever using your front lever to shift the front der. - in fact, I almost do.

So, are you saying that you basically never have to shift your front chainring? For instance, you are on your small front chainring and you are upshifting on the rear... when you get to the point of cross chaining, the front shifts to the big ring and your rear downshifts to the cog that would give you the ratio that would be your next upshift?[/quote]

Bingo! You could really go without ever using your front lever to shift the front der. - in fact, I almost do.[/quote]
Synchro shift can be enabled on the 785/6870 system too by using one of the new Di2 Bluetooth batteries and updating the e-tube firmware.

Bingo! You could really go without ever using your front lever to shift the front der. - in fact, I almost do.[/quote]
Synchro shift can be enabled on the 785/6870 system too by using one of the new Di2 Bluetooth batteries and updating the e-tube firmware.[/quote]
Wow. Thx. Now I know why my other bike doesn’t work with my Garmin. Lol

Found a YouTube video on this. Apparently you also need the Bluetooth transmitter.

Hey-

Do you know if you can run the new 8070 derailleurs with the 785 shifters?

Get 8070, best groupset on the market for the price. Don't overthink!

No. The D-Fly BT module is only needed if you want to run the e-tube phone or tablet app. Or if you want shift info transmitted to your bike computer. All e-tube programming can still be done from a pc with one of the wired e-tube internal battery chargers or programming unit. Synchto shift can be toggled between the three modes using the Junction A button.

Yes. I am running a new Ultegra clutched RD using 785 shifters. Shimano keeps their e-tube compatibility chart regularly updated: http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/...M-CC.3.4.3-00-EN.pdf