I don't know what I can offer you, but you can tell me what kind of shades you're wearing.

AND, for a moment I thought your kit said spanX on it...I would have upgraded to that too

Lot's of low hanging fruit here. That's a good thing, it means you can go faster with just a little bit of getting used to position changes. A lot of aero position stuff requires testing (search: Chung method) but some is a slam dunk fix everytime.

-Your head is all the way up in the air. You don't need to stare at the ground but the cue 'chin forward' is a good one to get your shoulders rolling forward and your head tucked in. Your head position should be limited by the browline of your helmet and how far upwards you can look with your eyes. In short get your head a lot lower.

-Very generally it's better to have your arms angled upwards. This makes it easier to do point 1: head lower. It also (usually) has an advantageous effect on the aerodynmics of the chest area, presumably by further disturbing the air before hitting that parachute of a body part.

-Generally 'get smaller'. You don't explicitly have to get lower, but pulling your head down, arms up, elbows together, knees in, all of these things generally help. There's two good pathways to do this and both of them require the dorkiest piece of equipment out there: the adjustable stem (or a TT bike). The bars need to go lower and without a new frame that's not gonna happen. Once you lower the bars you can either shift the saddle forward to maintain a similar hip angle or keep the saddle where it is to keep a similar balance on the bike. I've seen enough people prefer it both ways that it's worth trying both.

-The bars dont look too short to me, just too high. If you want to experiment just buy a pipe bender and a few fee of 22.2mm aluminium stock. Best $40 I ever spent.

Sorry, I can’t help you with your position. I just couldn’t help but notice the guy behind you is dressed for the Arctic while the runner in the background is wearing what looks like shorts and a t-shirt. You were probably the smart one!

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"The more you suffer, the more it shows you really care.”

Shades are ZHA ZHA Semi Rimless Sports Sunglasses. Cheapo Amazon.com unknown-brand non-polarized sunglasses.

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PD Subsonic bars would get you a little lower. Just leveling out the arm rests in the current pair will help.

A mid tail aero helmet like the Aerohead would also provide some gains, if you don’t mind the look & throwing a little $ at the problem.

Throwing even more $ at the problem would probably take you to some deeper wheels, after a helmet. But that’s a much bigger expense for no more gains that the helmet, in fact probably less. And they’re both in the dwarfed by what you gain with a better position.

All you need is a set of new wheels, a frame and some good aerobars, maybe a new chain too.

I'd be inclined to try a track stem like a Cinelli Pista on there. Pretty cheap and will get the front end lower.

First, the side-on photo below



Next, this will sound harsh, but I've seen better positions on an invisible aerobar set-up than what I'm seeing here. And the latter has constraints, as one can't really set up the saddle in a more forward position (because normal road position would be nice to have), whereas for the bike-leg of a duathlon/ triathlon, one could set up the saddle in such a position.

The saddle should at least be moved forward somewhat, and the pads lowered if possible.

Pretty much agreed on this.

If the OP is serious about this endeavor and want to keep the cost low, the way to go here is an aero rim-brake bike that has a flip-flop seatpost. Set it up with Di2 so that the shifters can be easily plugged/ unplugged.

The older Felt AR is great for such an application and would probably be reasonably cheap (along with 11-speed Di2 parts).

All those cables hanging on the front can be easily tidied up on such a bike. Those cables have a lot of drag (see image below).



Lastly, if the OP has time on his hands, he could also do full-on cockpit swaps (drop handlebar to basebar + extension) with a rim-brake set-up with plug-and-play Di2.

If he could move the seat forward about 2 inches, extend the front end 2 inches and raise his hands up above his elbows that would be a pretty good starting point.

Then give us proper pictures to measure angles with. Not even taking the time to put the bike on the trainer and take pictures from the side and front is saying I really don't care enough about my position to do anything about it.

I used to do the road bike conversion thing, and you can get a pretty good position with careful part selection.

Overall, I think you just need to rotate everything forwards, around the bottom bracket. This means you aren't trying to cramp up your position any more to get your torso and head lower.

This requires:
* moving the saddle way forwards
* This will need a saddle that you can comfortably sit on in a rotated position
* much lower bars
* use a very aggressive stem and/or an under-mounted aero bar

So my suggested parts list is:
* seatpost with a forward offset, or that you can reverse to this position (looks like your bike has a round post, these aren't too uncommon)
* ISM or similar saddle, with long rails that you an slam forward and sit comfortably on the nose of.
(benefit of the seatpost/saddle combo is you can swap them out really quickly if you want to go road riding)
* 35 degree or so stem, moderately long and mounted angled down(I used a 110 x 35)
* Profile Subsonic aero bar

As for aero bar angle, without aero testing I say just angle them up until you can rest on them in a really relaxed way (not having to grip the poles to stop your elbows from sliding off). Roughly a 90 degree elbow bend.

Also, I'd rotate your shifters to minimise their frontal area...

Lots of good advice here, thank you all. Much to consider for me and interesting directions to look at.

To the person who mentioned "Not even taking the time to put the bike on the trainer and take pictures from the side and front is saying I really don't care enough..." I do not own an indoor trainer lol. Nor a power meter. There's all types of budgets in this sport ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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The world's only show focused on duathlon 🏃‍♂️🚲🏃‍♂️
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That was me.

You can sit on the bike and lean against the wall in your position. You never asked about how to take the pictures. There are hundreds of threads here on bike position. There are several articles linked from the front page on bike fit. Have you read any of them?

Never said anything about a PM

It's 3 days later and you still haven't provided anything other than the photos from the web.

Doesn't sound like you're serious about it to me. It's just look at me, I've got a duathlon page.

I have visited online forums for many years and I am reminded why so many are turned off by them! I've read comments here about how Slowtwitch forums can have bit of a toxic reputation, and I can see why lol. Thanks to those who contributed feedback. It's not required by any means, ignoring a post that you consider unserious is also a great option. Costs nothing to ignore me, costs just a tiny bit of your own positivity and humanity when you're sour to someone for no reason at all :)

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The world's only show focused on duathlon 🏃‍♂️🚲🏃‍♂️
NEW EP: How to Win a 5k
https://podcasts.apple.com/...0739?i=1000641392144
https://open.spotify.com/...1ClQ5bg4dTYQjPdCR7x0
https://sites.google.com/view/andrewdbrown

I've been around for a long time and have been helpful on hundreds of occasions.

You haven't provided anything for us to help you with.
You refuse to ask questions that can help you.
You have not posted any helpful photos.
You have not listed any goals or problems with your current position.

The position you posted is very bad, you just refuse to listen to the people that are trying to help.
mathematics, echappist and MattyK gave you good info to work with, you didn't follow up with any of them.

It costs nothing to thank each of them, you refused to do that as well.