I've done custom paint on a few alloy frames and carbon parts. The conplexity can depend on really what you want to do and the complexity of the paint job.

How complicated is also up to you. You can get by with a rattlecan job, or you can go all the way up to a professional paint gun/ airbrush setup.

What is invaluable though:
A large open area where you can spray safely
Some way of hanging your frame through the headtube or BB so you can spray without touching it
Lots of masking tape and newspaper for masking
A sharp craft knife
Protective equipment (face and lung protection, also latex gloves
Sandpaper
Acetone or alcohol
A good vacuum cleaner

If you are going rattlecan, make sure you have GOOD rattlecans- none of your 5 dollar nasty stuff. I have gotten good results with rustoleum paints, although they cost. Give a triple layer of varnish. Get good primer too. Choose the basecoat well- most go black but if you want a brighter color may be better to go white.

If you know what you're doing then you will know also to take your time, be patient between coats. Many thin coats instead of one thick one. Sand lightly, wash, and vacuum if you have significant time gaps between coats. It's absolutely crucial you avoid getting dust under the paint.

Depends on how in depth you want to get. Like previous post said, go with a good rattle can paint. Not sure of your location but look up a auto paint supply store like a company Finish Master. They'll have everything you need from start to finish. Probably not the most cheapest, but cheaper than paying someone to do it. Also, you can give Finish Master any paint code from a vehicle and they can mix up the spray paint for you and put it into a rattle can. http://www.paintscratch.com is a good source for any color of vehicle along with the code.

I'm currently in the process of doing the same thing to my first gen Speed Concept and my list of items i had on my list.
300Grit and 600Grit wet/dry sand paper.
Flexible sanding block - Prevents you from finger-grooving the paint from sanding
Gray ScotchBrite pad along with Scuff Stuff (enhances the paint adhesion and surface profile)
Wax & Grease remover
2k Primer
2k Urethane base coat rattle can
2k Clear coat or 2K matte clearcoat

I chose the 2k products as it's more durable, chemical resistant and higher quality

And the obvious stuff like masking tape, eye protection, and a mask were on there too

My brother has painted a few bikes with Spray.Bike and is in the process of starting my carbon Fuji D6. I'll have him chime in here but the paint is designed specifically for bikes and can come out really well.

i'm said brother. i've done 4 bikes so far using spray.bike with my most recent one coming out pretty damn amazing if you ask me.

**the absolute most important thing is to take your time**


i've done most aluminum at this point, but i've done carbon forks. the spray.bike paint sticks really well. the only "blemishes" i've had is spots on the frame where the factory paint/graphics were raised and that has now come through, but frankly tough to see. example...chain stays of my caad10 had a big "10" from the factory with raised edges, you can still see them when you get close.

the tips provided so far for materials/tools have been pretty spot on. i've gone with 1000 and 2000 grit wet/dry paper however which won't take the paint away too much but just "flat it back". some pro shops i follow on IG use similar grit. i'll share some pictures here of my recent work, but feel free to PM me and i'll give you my email address, happy to share more details if you decide to use spray.bike paint. i haven't used any primers yet or tried to scuff up the frame, but might look into this Scuff Stuff product.

This is great advice, thank you all! I will probably have more questions soon, but I was also looking at potentially hand-drawn designs/writing/graffiti-like work. I have seen people use enamel paint markers, industrial strength sharpies, or enamel paint with a brush. Then using a clear lacquer over it (some people say this can smudge/melt regular sharpie, but not industrial?) Does anyone have experience with this, if I decide not to spray the bike?

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Eggnog is why I train.

 
What looks good on a wall may not looo good on a bike. Be cautious.
I would not recommend going with a brush. Unless you are using a very fine tipped brush over small areas and details the brush strokes will absolutely show up and it will not look good. (Unless that is your intention) The marker strokes might show up if you're not careful either. I wouldnt recommend using these except for small detail work.

Best would still be to do masking work and airbrush though.