The housing on the front derailleur cable of my IA16 failed on me. This will be my first time attempting to redo any cabling on my own so I'm looking for some thoughts on my plan. I'm thinking I can get away with moving the inline adjuster a little closer to the extension outlet which should get the adjuster out of the max bend area of the housing. Does that sound sufficient here, or do I need to be considering something else?
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Re: Cable Housing Failure [Traket92x]
[ In reply to ]
Traket92x wrote:
The housing on the front derailleur cable of my IA16 failed on me. This will be my first time attempting to redo any cabling on my own so I'm looking for some thoughts on my plan. I'm thinking I can get away with moving the inline adjuster a little closer to the extension outlet which should get the adjuster out of the max bend area of the housing. Does that sound sufficient here, or do I need to be considering something else?eliminate the barrel adjuster. it's not necessary.
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Re: Cable Housing Failure [Traket92x]
[ In reply to ]
Jasons suggestion to remove the barrel adjusters all together 'might' make sense if your Front Derailleur has the tension adjustment screw (e.g. Ultegra 8000, Dura Ace 9100, or the latest 105 5801-FD). However, If your derailleur is of the previous generation (6800, 9000, older 5800, most recognizable by the long cable attachment point at the top of the derailleur), you definitely DO need a barrel adjuster.
In a simpler fix (that avoids installing all new housing in the frame), I would simply cut the housing closer to the exit point of the top tube, insert your barrel adjuster, and cut new/longer housing to route through your extension. In this case, your barrel adjuster wouldn't be right in the middle of the arc (lower stress point).
You definitely don't need a barrel adjuster on the RD. ...But if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
edit.. I see the other barrel adjuster is for the rear brake (I think). Not too familiar with that (looks like a center pull aero brake). If the brake lacks any integrated cable adjustment, the barrel is likely very helpful.
In a simpler fix (that avoids installing all new housing in the frame), I would simply cut the housing closer to the exit point of the top tube, insert your barrel adjuster, and cut new/longer housing to route through your extension. In this case, your barrel adjuster wouldn't be right in the middle of the arc (lower stress point).
You definitely don't need a barrel adjuster on the RD. ...But if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
edit.. I see the other barrel adjuster is for the rear brake (I think). Not too familiar with that (looks like a center pull aero brake). If the brake lacks any integrated cable adjustment, the barrel is likely very helpful.
Re: Cable Housing Failure [Traket92x]
[ In reply to ]
And shorten those housings by at least an inch! With the cable entry on the top tube you don't need as much slack as when they were all on the sides of the down tube.
That's hard to look at.
That's hard to look at.
Re: Cable Housing Failure [beston]
[ In reply to ]
Thanks.
Looks like its a 105 7000 series. Got looking closer and it appears the barrel adjuster is cracked on the cable stop portion. Sure would be a nice to have a bike shop down the road to pick up these parts....
Looks like its a 105 7000 series. Got looking closer and it appears the barrel adjuster is cracked on the cable stop portion. Sure would be a nice to have a bike shop down the road to pick up these parts....
Re: Cable Housing Failure [beston]
[ In reply to ]
beston wrote:
Jasons suggestion to remove the barrel adjusters all together 'might' make sense if your Front Derailleur has the tension adjustment screw (e.g. Ultegra 8000, Dura Ace 9100, or the latest 105 5801-FD). However, If your derailleur is of the previous generation (6800, 9000, older 5800, most recognizable by the long cable attachment point at the top of the derailleur), you definitely DO need a barrel adjuster. In a simpler fix (that avoids installing all new housing in the frame), I would simply cut the housing closer to the exit point of the top tube, insert your barrel adjuster, and cut new/longer housing to route through your extension. In this case, your barrel adjuster wouldn't be right in the middle of the arc (lower stress point).
You definitely don't need a barrel adjuster on the RD. ...But if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
edit.. I see the other barrel adjuster is for the rear brake (I think). Not too familiar with that (looks like a center pull aero brake). If the brake lacks any integrated cable adjustment, the barrel is likely very helpful.
The front derailleur is friction shifting with bar end shifters. It really doesn’t need a barrel adjuster. Indexed front shifting does, but not friction.
Edit. I don’t run barrel adjusters on my tri bike or my Klein road bike. Front shifts just fine
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Favourite Swim Sets:
2020 National Masters Champion - M50-54 - 50m Butterfly
Last edited by:
JasoninHalifax: Feb 12, 21 14:22
Re: Cable Housing Failure [JasoninHalifax]
[ In reply to ]
Good point! I’ve been using di2 long enough I’ve forgotten that TT front shifters use friction
Thanks for the help everyone. Managed to successfully get the new cable run and everything shifting well. Trimmed the existing housing and just used a union to remove the old adjuster.
Now that the front derailleur cable is nice and short, that rear brake cable is annoying me...
Now that the front derailleur cable is nice and short, that rear brake cable is annoying me...