I'm in the same boat, and I understood since recently, that you can run gp 5000 tt tr also with inner tubes. They are a bit faster than the 5000 clincher, and alledgedly still pretty good avoiding flats. So that's what I'm buying next season (will run the tt tr with latex inner tubes).

This how I run the TT also.

In few past years, used Schwalbe pro one TT and Michelin power cup. Both fees slightly faster than 5000 but sligthly less protected.
Decide to leave them for race days, and use anything more protected for trainings.

I've a newer road bike and it and my wheel set accommodates tubeless wider tires. I've been running the gp 5000 s tr 30mm tubeless w/sealant this year and absolutely love them. My tri bike will only run latex 25mm so it just sits in the garage until race day.

If you can remember the first time you ran latex, how smooth and fast you felt, then for me, going tubeless is the next step up from that. Love the feel of them on the road and the extra protection the sealant provides.

Vittoria Corsa Pro. Michelin Power Cup.

TJ, how are they putting them on? I am similar to OP in running gp5000 with latex and HED. I bought a set of s tr tubeless, but haven't jumped ship yet on running tubes.

What wheels are you running?

My Roubaix came with carbon Roval C38 wheelset. The tubeless gp5000s seal with one CO2 cartridge (no sealant). I then attach my floor pump and get them up to 80psi and can hear them pop. After that I remove the valve stem and add Orange seal and then pump them to riding pressure.

I love the Rovals so much that I bought another pair (used) and put on my gravel bike. I can mount the Specialized Pathfinders 38 or 42mm tubeless with one CO2 cartridge as well.

The Rovals make tubeless easier than mounting GP5K tube tires on my tri bike!

Recently discussed: https://forum.slowtwitch.com/...ost=7991459#p7991459

I can't get a GP5000 on my Swiss Side Hadron rear wheel, so I'm going to try the Michelin Power Cup.

The rolling resistance site recommends the GP5000 TR and the Pirelli Race TLR (the new speedcore - made in Italy version).

They say the Conti’s are slightly faster, but the Pirelli’s are much better puncture protection.

I’ve used the Pirellis for a few years in 24, 26 and 28 tubeless and rate them highly. I recently got the speedcore model in 30s and love them. I’m happy to forego the tiny wattage benefit of the Conti for the better protection of the Pirelli. I recently changed my rear and it hadn’t had a puncture (that didn’t seal with sealant).

It’s worth noting that the speedcore model is hard to come by at the moment, probably due being so new.

Ere Research might have what you are looking for

These are the best alternatives currently, imo. And possibly the Tufo Comtura Prima if they ride similar to the SES but with much improved BRR results.

Give up 1W and gain a world in rolling smooth as butter. After riding Power Cups, I can't go back to GP5k. Hate them on loaners. You don't know how poorly the GP rides til you try something supple and spend the first few red lights checking whether you have a flat.

I am running 4 sets of wheels for what seems like years now:

1 x GP5000 TR TDF
2 x GP5000 TR (one pair Hed Jet)
1 x GP5000 with butyl tubes

I had my first flat in the wet in a tubeless set that put a big cut so was glass or the like and didn’t seal initially very well but was luckily not far from home and limped home. I won’t change based on how well they roll and I don’t get flats. The glass would have cut any tyre. I was using GP4000 before that and had plenty of flats. My 2c…

I love my Tufo gravel tires, I think I'm going to try those road tires.

Funny, Tufo used to have a reputation for terrible tires and they are killing it now.

Which one would you say is the easiest to change in a race situation ? GP5000 I have currently are a huge pain to do by hand, loosing 1w is fine if I can gain 5 minutes once in while to change the tire.

and you're eschewing the move to tubeless because... your wheels aren't tubeless compliant? or...?

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

My concern, which may be completely unfounded, is that I do very little riding outdoors, and was concerned with having sealant in wheels that aren't being used/turned often. But if this really shouldn't be a concern, then I am very open to trying tubeless.

I ran Vittoria for years stubbornly flat after flat after flat. I finally switched to GPs and haven't had any issues. Vittoria roll awesome but are so delicate.

at that point i guess i don't think it matters. but tubeless is not a problem on the trainer, it's just a problem if the wheels don't ever turn. then, yeah, that's an issue.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

To avoid this, I rotate my wheels every once in a while when I don't ride. And use Fillmore valves to avoid plugging them by doing so.

I haven't installed the Vittoria myself. The Power Cups went on by hand.

The Power Cups also held up really well until I cut the sidewall on some sharp rocks at the exit to a construction site, which I saw too late to slow down. Never got any flats on the tread area. I'm a huge fan of these tires!

Now I am waiting for Tufo to launch the 32mm size in the spring to try those. Can report back how those mount.

Thanks, that is prob best solution for me I think, give tubeless a try, set them up right before race season and just make a habit of spinning them for a minute whenever I hop on the trainer.
How are the fillmore valves different from whatever normally comes stock with new wheels?

EDIT - just googled them......websites seem to imply they are meant for MTB and cross?

They were originally for MTB and cross, but they have 70 and 90 mm options that are pretty clearly for road use too. They don't clog, which is a big bonus for all tubeless users, and they allow high volume air flow, which is more beneficial with big tires. Should help with seating any given tire though

I have the aluminium rimmed Hadrons, and yes, tyres have always been a tight fit. I had my first ever install failure recently with a Vittoria Corsa Speed - figured I was at risk of damaging the rim. Anyway, tried it on another wheel - RS80 - and it went on no problem. So then swapped it back to the Hadron and it went on fine. Hence, try that approach. I've had to take the tyre off twice due to the value extender coming unthreaded - why aren't valve extenders reverse threaded??? - and no problems (I use a screw on pump hose).

As for the thread, IMO Corsa Speed > GP5000. The ride is noticeably better and 500km so far with no sign of tyre damage, including one time having to ride through some road glass as there was a large truck on my outside that meant no chance of taking avoiding action.