Sure. The rationale to go aero:

1) If you use the bars on your road bike, use what you're used to.
2) The road sections of gravel racing matter, and the bars/body position matter more than the frame tubing, etc. Fast gravel descents also matter.
3) The wide top position of aero bars can give a comfortable hand position.

Reasons not to go with an aero road bar.

1) The flared out "gravel bar" can supposedly give a more stable position for technical descending. This isn't something I've ever really cared about, though. I mountain bike a lot with downhill bars, but when doing the same descents on my gravel bike I prefer the more upright hoods position than wide drops. With the hoods position I can more easily send my butt behind the saddle for going down a rock garden, etc. This is all personal preference, though. Other people descend in the drops just fine.

2) Road aero bars are probably stiffer, and vibration-soaking compliance matters for gravel. This is not something I can really say I've ever noticed, though. If you have high volume tires, it might be all but irrelevant.

3) For brutal gravel "washboard" descents often the best hand position is the "Paris-Roubaix" tops position to best soak up all the vibration and shock. . And for that position you want nice cushy tape all the way to nearly the middle of the bar so you don't brutalize your hands with vibration. And it doesn't make a ton of aero sense to thick-wrap tape on the aero top section of an aero bar.

The top 3) kind of contradicts the bottom 3). But if you don't care about aero and just like the thick, cushiony top, it still makes sense.

Spend the money on the fastest tires for the terrain first.

I would question the choice of the Crux if aero is of interest. It sounds like a Grail or Ostro would be a better starting point for what you are doing. 3T would also be a better starting point if you don’t want integrated cabling.

While there is some impact there, it's minimal and crazy expensive.

Thanks. With regard to cost, I’m upgrading the bar either way and the difference between a regular Roval carbon bar and the Rapide aero bar is only $50, so not a huge deal.

ETA: Roval Rapide aero handlebar, not the full cockpit/integrated stem.

What's the price differential between the Rapide aero carbon fiber bar and an aluminum bar?

Comparing it to another over-priced bar and claiming it's only a little more doesn't really show how affordable it is. Besides, it's the cost of the crash replacement where the real expense comes into play, especially if said crash is during an event and you dnf the darn thing.

Thanks Jordan. I do really enjoy the pathfinders on pavement and smooth gravel. I crashed pretty hard on some loose stuff with them which got me thinking about a more aggressive tire, but I’m not sure if I want to give up that speed for more bite. I guess it’s all course- and weather-dependent so there’s no one solution for all conditions.

I used to live in the Victor Valley (North of San Bernardino Mts) where the wind blew all the time. Since I rode solo and 90 percent gravel, I did a lot of experimenting with aero bars.

I use aerobars on my gravel bike and my road bike. Actually, the same ones since I swap them back and forth. My gravel bike is a dual-suspension bike and I can ride the aero bars off-road, though wash-boards and most everything. I use a 5cm riser bar with pads in the low spot that act as armrests. I can shift from the tops with a climbing shifter, the bar ends and the regular Di2 road shifters.

When judging the utility of aerobars remember that your body accounts for far more resistance than the bike. Plus, I use a Redshift Sports dual-position seatpost that gets me a nice aero position. I would say I'm as aero on my gravel bike as most folks are in tri (not that this speaks well for most bike positions).
My last gravel race I made up probably five places on the 5 miles of fast downhill pavement using the aerobars. The year before on the same race in the same section I was completely blown and could barely spin. On the fast downhill section I kept catching a rider and passing them when I was probably doing 80 watts. Twice, on short hills the rider just rode away from me and then I pulled them back basically soft pedaling.

Now, on a Crux, you won't be able to ride them off-road, but if you ride a lot of pavement, then you will be much faster if you ride solo a lot.
For my road bike, I really like them when I've finished climbing the mountains and have a long grind on the flats back to my vehicle or house. Five hours into a ride, having a different position is really nice.

So he was. I stand corrected. Can I change my answer?