It's my understanding that 12spd AXS chains have bigger rollers and narrow width and will only work with Sram AXS rings and cogs. I could be wrong, though...

I saw that as well. I should correct my OP though as I’m actually planning on running the Eagle AXS rear derailleur with one of Rotor’s new 12 Speed cassettes (which fits HG freehubs yay!) and a KMC 12 Speed chain.

Yikes... $300 for a cassette is too rich for me. I'll wait until SunRace comes out with a 12spd cassette that fits on normal 11spd hubs.

Make sure that the spacing on the Rotor cassette is the same as Sram.

What are you using for shifters?

If I could get a 12spd cassette I'd buy the Archer D1x for ~$350. Electronic shifting with no proprietary crap needed and never obsolete.

I *think* eagle 12s chain is the better option.

Stay tuned for wolf tooth options.

On a side note eagle 12s quick links work best with Campy 12s as there is only a .05mm difference in width.

Please double check what I’ve said as it is only internet heresay.

Maurice

I have this crazy idea to set up a couple of my frames with blips and just swap the wheels, derailleur, and blip box amongst them. On the TT side I have a Speed Concept, Shiv, and an Omni. I basically always run the same wheels: Jet Black 4 and Jet Black disc. Speed Concept for sprints and olys, Shiv for 70.3s, Omni... doesn't have a purpose... it's a great frame and handles well in the wind (yes, I notice a difference)... but I just don't trust it. Don't ask me why.

Road bike is a Fuji SL with Belgium+ wheels. Tough to justify a Rotor cassette for that bike. Gravel bike is a Culprit Rad. Hate to say it but it doesn't get much use anymore. I'll probably sell both the road and gravel bike as I seem to go straight between TT and mtb these days as the seasons change... and I prefer my XC bike for riding the gravel near me.

Two mountain bikes both of which already have 12 speed cassettes: Cannondale F-Si and a Trek Fuel EX. I've already experimented with placing blips on the bars. It's not perfect but it's not terrible and I'm pretty sure I could 3d print a simple bracket to make it perfect.

I’ve had similar thoughts about moving drivetrains between bikes - but my experience with eTap is its a bit finicky- I’d worry about fine-tuning the rear mech from one free hub to another.. I can never figure out the micro-adjust.

---

" I take my gear out of my car and put my bike together. Tourists and locals are watching from sidewalk cafes. Non-racers. The emptiness of of their lives shocks me. "
(opening lines from Tim Krabbe's The Rider , 1978

Check out https://www.pyramidcycledesign.co.uk/ ! If they don't have it already, Mark is great and has helped me with a few custom bits to make things work.

Wolftooth option is already available--just can't use the flattop chain: https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...riant=14782347345955

OP: I doubt your chainring will work...