I appreciate the input, everyone. Thank you.
cmscat50 wrote:
My experience with road and big cogs / short derailleurs.
I have run a 32 cog on my DA9000 with 100% shift performance. No issues. I don't think it will take anything bigger. I've run it with a 53-34 front as well (Pikes Peak). Front shifting is a little sketch, but you need to shift about 2 times on that climb in the front rings.
I have run the road link. There is compromise there and it will negatively impact performance. I have setup about 4 bikes this way. It's a poor man's way up Pikes Peak or Mt. Evans. That's it.
Therefore for 1 x 11 I'd recommend the mid cage or whatever comes with the new 8000, 9100, or go with the RX / Force 1. I would have zero hesitation running the straight road 8000 or 9100 cages on a road / Tri setup. As long as the front is narrow / wide.
The DA9000 is rated for 28t max, so that's interesting that it can clear 32t on your bike. The DA9100, which is what I have, is only offered in one cage length and rated up to 30t. Maybe I should just try it with 32t and see if it all clears.
COBRI wrote:
for a tri bike? i would only go electronic on tri bike so I'd go ultegra di2 1x in this situation
I respect that, but I'm sticking with mechanical for now, so that would keep SRAM in play
rruff wrote:
Every case is different I guess, but I'd run with that. I'm using a 9000. The clutch sucks some energy anyway.
And small rings and cogs are not ideal for TTs either. Some efficiency is lost and small cogs are not smooth (inherently).
Good points. I didn't know NW chain rings are sufficient to keep the chain from dropping.
I spend most of my time in the 52 ring and 15t cog. I doubt that 44 ring and 13t. Should cost about 1W if Diamondback's data is accurate (first and second bar charts combined)
https://ride.diamondback.com/...files-1x-drivetrains On the flip side, they also estimate (not measure, in this case) that the clutch only adds 1W.
Good to quantify "some efficiency" since it can always be more or less than intuition dictates.
dangle wrote:
Not a single one for my tri/tt bike. 50 tooth NW Sram ring. Ultegra rear derailleur. I was mechanical the first year and had the spring in the low tension setting too. Electronic (no clutch) last year. Four half distance races and a handful of shorter ones those two seasons. I probably have <10 outdoor training rides on that bike per year, so that should be considered.
I have been 1x on my cyclocross bikes with 105 or Ultegra rear derailleurs (with NW rings) for the last 3 seasons. The derailleurs were always in the high tension setting. The only chain drop I had was in such apocalyptic mud that the chain was literally lifted up and over the ring from how much mud had built up around the chainring. I cleared it, put the chain back on and the rear derailleur was ripped off half a lap later from all that muck. I ripped another rear derailleur off in January in really crappy conditions, but there was never any hint of the chain coming off the chainring.
I have nothing against the newer clutched stuff (and had the first clutch shimano mt bike rear derailleur), but I haven't found a reason to replace anything I already own with clutched versions. It used to be that I would have picked Force 1 so I could throw in a bigger cassette if needed, but it seems like the newer Ultegra rx has about the same cassette swallowing ability. I don't like R2C shifters, so that's reason enough for me to choose Shimano for mechanical tri/tt.
The narrow wide chainring is the most important piece of the equation.
FlashBazbo wrote:
If you're doing this for the road (TT/triathlon), I would use neither of those derailleurs. A clutch is not necessary and a clutch introduces a tiny bit of drag. I would go with a mid-cage Shimano Ultegra (non-RX) derailleur and call it good.
Before the RX derailleur came out, I rode several seasons on gravel (including extremely rough gravel) without a clutch rear derailleur and never dropped a chain. But I did use a Force1 crankset and chainring. The contours of the teeth on the Force1 chainrings keep the chain under control.
Great anecdotes, thank you. If the clutch isn't needed for gravel, I don't expect to need it for tri. Admittedly I also wasn't aware of the tension settings. For 1x tt/tri duty, is low sufficient or is high recommended just in case?