I was the same size across CAADX and CAAD10, but my CAAD10 was set up for road, not for tri. Some fitters might have put you on a smaller frame for tri to get lower and handle aerobars, but if you just used a road setup with clip-ons, you'll probably be fine in the same size.

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I love geometrygeeks.com

They let you pick up to 4 bikes by year/model/size and compare side by side to get a sense. I suspect you know that your fit is going to be different as these bikes will have larger stack and shorter reach for same size. So can play around if you want a closer fit, but keep in mind that you are going to want and need more of your weight back more of the time.

I have a Crux, and I did swap the stem to extend my reach just a little.

Yeah, just n=1, but after I struggled on a technical CX course, one of the elite riders came up to me after a race and said, "Give me your bike for a minute," so I handed it over and he dropped the saddle a couple cm and raised the bars a couple cm. Handed it back and said, "Now you'll look like a 'crosser, not a roadie."

It did help a lot. Dropping the saddle is huge for being able to easily get your butt behind the saddle on technical descents.

If you need to drop the saddle on a cx bike from where it is on your road bike, the saddle is too high on your road bike. EOS.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Nah

Hey, at least you aren't wrong about adding Y at the brake hoods. That's something.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Comparing road to CX bike sizes is heavily dependent on the brand, and how they measure their bikes. Traditionally, when you say "size 56", this is based on the length of the seat tube, either to the top of the tube, or to the middle of the tube, at the center of the joint with the top tube. With a sloping top tube bike, it's based on a virtual version these measurements, IE: where would this junction be if the top tube was level.
The problem is, a CX bike traditionally has significantly less BB drop than a road bike, so things get a little tangled in translation. A size "56" CX bike will typically be a fair bit taller than a road bike in the same size. This isn't as big a problem with the brands you mention as with something like a Ridley, but you will still want to look out for it.

Your saddle position should be essentially identical on a road/cx bike (once you compensate for difference in pedals/shoes). Most folks do better with a slightly taller/shorter front end on their CX bike. Assuming your road bike position is good, compare stack and reach of your existing bike with the CX options rather than the nominal size of the frame. Make sure you can hit the numbers on your existing bike with room to move things back/up at the front without using a ridiculously short/tall stem.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/