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Re: Crank Arm Length [jimatbeyond] [ In reply to ]
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How do you test it?

Disclaimer: I have made a living in bike shops for more than 2 decades, so according to most people on this forum am not at all trust worthy
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Re: Crank Arm Length [Henrik Noerskov] [ In reply to ]
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150 for my mtb (only because 140 and 145's were 200 bucks more).

167.5 for road bike, only because that was the shortest length i could get a stages pm on at the time.

same with tri bike.

ideally, i'd be 140-145 for all.

changed my fiances mtb from 170 to 150. world of a difference.
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Re: Crank Arm Length [Henrik Noerskov] [ In reply to ]
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Dynamic fit bike.
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Re: Crank Arm Length [jimatbeyond] [ In reply to ]
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Bumping this thread again for more input.

I noticed on a ride today when I'm down on the aero bars, my knees come awfully close to my elbows. The crank arms on my Ridley are 170s and I just think that's far too big for me. At the top of the crank stroke, my knees are probably only an inch or two from contacting my elbows. Plus, it really feels like I'm closing up that hip angle a bunch. I really need to invest in that bike fit.
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Re: Crank Arm Length [LegendJeff] [ In reply to ]
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LegendJeff wrote:
I was having alot of hip impingement pain in aero position on stock 172.5mm cranks and did some research and found Mark from BikeSmith Design and Fabrication. He takes stock Apex 175mm cranks and can cut them down anywhere from 153.5mm to 120mm. I switched to his 153.5mm and instantly solved most of my issues and my power is much better. Cadence up a little bit. Feels like I can maintain constant power throughout stroke much easier in aero position. I also just purchased his 150mm stock No-Names and look forward to trying those out next. I also went to 165s on my road bike and I like that better than the stock as well. I am 5'8" medium frame.

Wanted to share an update, I am using the 150s now (153.5 previously) and gave me a little more relief at top of stroke for hips and reduced my reach at bottom of stroke so no more pain and no more lateral rocking.

After 1 ride outdoor on the usual course, and (3) 1-hour long indoor workouts on WahooX, I can report my average power is ~5% higher and even more comfortable in aero. Surprisingly, my avg HR is lower also.

The only negative I have noticed is that my peak/max power efforts have been reduced by ~5%. If I was a cyclist racing crits or doing sprint triathlons this would be more concerning, but my goal is to be competitive in mid-distance triathlon so I need to be comfortable and consistent.
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Re: Crank Arm Length [LegendJeff] [ In reply to ]
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After much discussion over on Bike Forums I finally pulled the trigger on shorter cranks for my Ridley tri bike. Going with 150mm per recommendation from Bikesmith. Just placed the order yesterday so I'm hoping to receive them next week. Never changed a crank set before but hope to have it put back together in a couple weeks and I will report my findings.
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Re: Crank Arm Length [VegasJen] [ In reply to ]
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VegasJen wrote:
when I'm down on the aero bars, my knees come awfully close to my elbows.
I had the same situation. Went to a fitter, he took one look at me and said your bike is too small for you. I then sold my Medium bike for a size Large and everything is great now.
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Re: Crank Arm Length [piratetri] [ In reply to ]
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piratetri wrote:
VegasJen wrote:
when I'm down on the aero bars, my knees come awfully close to my elbows.
I had the same situation. Went to a fitter, he took one look at me and said your bike is too small for you. I then sold my Medium bike for a size Large and everything is great now.
I would be stunned if that were the case.

In my effort to figure out where my fit is wrong, I've taken pictures with my feet at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions. My leg is nearly fully extended at the 6 o'clock while my knee is only maybe 2-3 inches from my elbow at the 12 o'clock.

As it is now, with my Ridley, I have the seat almost slammed just so I don't lock my knees at the bottom of the stroke.
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Re: Crank Arm Length [seanhsn] [ In reply to ]
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5’9” with 30” inseam. Several road bikes, I ride 172.5 on them. Tried going down to 170 but couldn’t get used to them. I did drop to 170 on my Shiv tribike because here the 172.5’s felt like I was stomping grapes. Also ride 172.5 on my gravel bike. Mountain bikes are 175 or 172.5 and I don’t notice much difference.
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Re: Crank Arm Length [seanhsn] [ In reply to ]
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5’ 7” , 155mm or tri bike and 165mm road

Mainly trial and error. Progressively shorter over 30yrs of triathlons . Latest development pushed cleats further back with extenders. Really help with over the top of pedal stroke and engage glutes more than quads
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Re: Crank Arm Length [LegendJeff] [ In reply to ]
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Are there other options for cranks around 145-150 mm other than Bikesmith?

I’m a bit under 6’5” with 37.5” inseam, but longer in the lower legs than femurs proportionally speaking, as well as having less than good hip flexion range of motion (work in progress). I had been using 175s for 20+ years both road and tri until last year when I moved down to 170 and 172.5. I realized that I had been positioned way too high, in large part to help open up my hip angle but at a cost to back pain, lateral hip movement, pedal smoothness, etc.

Now I’m around 3 cm lower than I was previously, with respect to pedal at the bottom of the stroke, and I switched to 165s just recently. It’s an improvement but with the saddle height 3 cm lower, my hip flexion at the top of the stroke is still troublesome for my range of motion. Some hip rocking because of that. So I’m thinking 145s or 150s would be better, at least for now.
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Re: Crank Arm Length [Greg17815] [ In reply to ]
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Greg17815 wrote:
Are there other options for cranks around 145-150 mm other than Bikesmith?

I’m a bit under 6’5” with 37.5” inseam, but longer in the lower legs than femurs proportionally speaking, as well as having less than good hip flexion range of motion (work in progress). I had been using 175s for 20+ years both road and tri until last year when I moved down to 170 and 172.5. I realized that I had been positioned way too high, in large part to help open up my hip angle but at a cost to back pain, lateral hip movement, pedal smoothness, etc.

Now I’m around 3 cm lower than I was previously, with respect to pedal at the bottom of the stroke, and I switched to 165s just recently. It’s an improvement but with the saddle height 3 cm lower, my hip flexion at the top of the stroke is still troublesome for my range of motion. Some hip rocking because of that. So I’m thinking 145s or 150s would be better, at least for now.


Jcob makes 145, 150, 155 short cranks but they're not cheap. They do have some 160s/165s on sale for $195. Short Cranksets – Speed&Comfort (speedandcomfort.com)

Might be good to try the midfoot cleat adapters as Iverma mentions, I did that as well and found it does indeed help top of stroke and it feels like more powerful strokes using more quads instead of calves. Only negative I can tell is not quite as much power when standing on the cranks for steep climbs.

Further, I think midfoot or slammed back cleats makes sense for shorter cranks because otherwise the knee will extend beyond the toes in forward rotation (3-o'clock pedal position) I was having knee pain because of this with the short cranks, so I got the Patro adapters and effectively moved my foot forward by the same amount I shortened the cranks and voila it fixed the knee pain. Solutions for foot pain, hot spots, metatarsalgia and mortons neuroma. – Mid-Foot Cycling (mid-foot-cycling.com)
Last edited by: LegendJeff: Feb 6, 24 11:50
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Re: Crank Arm Length [Greg17815] [ In reply to ]
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Rotor has 150mm cranks with a 30mm axle.
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Re: Crank Arm Length [jimatbeyond] [ In reply to ]
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Would that be BB30 compatible? Looks like all of the jcobb cranks are not compatible.
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Re: Crank Arm Length [Greg17815] [ In reply to ]
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30mm is BB30.
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Re: Crank Arm Length [jimatbeyond] [ In reply to ]
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Quote:
30mm is BB30.


Careful with that, you know better. BB30 = 30mm spindle, 30mm spindle /= BB30.

Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
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Re: Crank Arm Length [seanhsn] [ In reply to ]
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Would be great to get a little input on the next option. I'm 6-3, size XL Trek Speed Concept. I was on 175s, moved to 172.5s and now thinking of going smaller. Is it worth trying out 170s or should I just make the jump down to 165? I'm also riding 52/36 chainrings, natural cadence is 84ish. Should I go up to 53/39 or does that not matter? It's super flat where I ride so all about pushing a gear and having decent chainline.

My road bike has 175s, and I probably won't switch it since there is a power meter on the cranks and I don't want to give that up for gravel rides.

I get some front knee soreness after a while so I'm hoping this helps a bit, plus the added benefits of potentially more power and more aero.
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Re: Crank Arm Length [adampom] [ In reply to ]
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Have you had a bike fit? I mean I would recommend that first. They can recommend a crank length that best suits your leg length and personal dimensions (some people have longer femurs, etc). I'm the opposite of you, I'm only 5'3" with a 29.5" inseam. My original bike had 170s on it for years, and then when I had a bike fit I switched to 145s. I could probably have gone lower but those were pretty much the smallest available. My new triathlon bike I ride 150s because those were the shortest compatible.

On my gravel bike I ride 160s (again, shortest compatible with the GRX chainrings.)
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