What do you mean by "compatible"?

All you really need for zwift is a power-meter. If you have one on your bike already, then you can use any dumb trainer. If you don't have a power meter, I think you can still get away with a dumb trainer, if its one that Zwift has a speed/power curve for.

If you don't have a power meter and you don't want to use the speed/power method, then I think the cheapest recommended smart trainer, is the Zwift Hub at $599 (includes a year subscription for zwift). There are cheaper smart trainers, but last I looked on DCR, nothing below the Zwift Hub had good reviews.

Tacx (Garmin brand) Flow Smart: wheel on trainer, with smart (i.e. resistance controlled by the software) capabilities

I had one of these and it was great gateway into Zwift 0 great for the money. However it overheats and turns off resistance on any 250w+ continuous rides (think Alp du Zwift)

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Regards, Richard

Thanks for the quick responses twitchers!! Yes, I have a “dumb” trainer and power pedals.

Sounds like I incorrectly assumed you need a “compatible” trainer b/c I see a bunch advertised as “ZWIFT compatible”.

Guess they “got me” …… lol. 😉

So really I just need a ZWIFT subscription it sounds. Now ………….. wonder if they have a “family subscription” ….. hmmm! 🤔

Thanks all!!!

Yep, if you have power, you're good.

No, they do not have a volume discount. :-(

If you are talking just accessing Zwift, you can do that for under $100. Get a cheap, used fluid trainer (Cycleops or Kurt), and then a speed/cadence sensor. This is what I did for my 5th grader. He doesn't worry about power and can ride and has a Zwift account set up - ones for kids are free.

If you want a 'smart trainer' then something like a Kicker Snap is a decent wheel-on option. Next step up is something like the Zwift Hub, but I picked up a Saris H3 for around that same price on sale a couple years ago.

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With the caveat to all this about how serious you want to get with Zwift racing. At some level of racing, Zwift sanctioned direct-drive trainers are required. And even at some levels of racing just below where they're required, I consider it it good etiquette.

For just training or casual racing, sure, just use a power meter and/or wheel-on trainer.

Which is more signalling than anything of material significance.

I'd take the accuracy of my power meter (slope verified by static calibration) over that of any trainers Zwift's official list.

they have fixed a few flaws with latest models; of course certain workouts (e.g. high power / low cadence) are still out of its capabilities