I am on the same combo and do not always get the pop/snap sound. Other times the noise from my air compressor higher than the pop/snap.

If it holds air and the tire is perfectly round you should be ok

Look all around the tire bead and make sure it doesn't look like the tire is a little more tucked into the rim in places. If it's not, than you're good to go

Great, thanks a lot chaps.

Spin the wheel while holding it at the axle, It will show you very quickly if any spots are not fully seated.

Also from my experience with Roval wheels being set up tubeless MAKE SURE you keep at least some air in the tires. If you let it drop too far the tires will un-seat themselves meaning you will have to reseat them before heading out for a ride.

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ig - @servicecourse_evv

Okay, thanks. Looks like they're on correctly.

I actually noticed that when taking the valve core out to then put the sealant in- had to reseat again after all the air was out.

Yup. I haven’t found a tire that doesn’t do this on ROVAL wheels. I’ll typically squeeze them from time to time just to make sure.

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ig - @servicecourse_evv

So tubeless is amazing- I can't believe I haven't converted earlier.

What PSI do you recommend to run at? The GP5000 said to run at 80PSI- I understand you can run much lower? I weigh around 63-65kg.

Also- what do people normally carry on their rides for potential punctures? Do you carry a whole flat kit, inner tubes etc or just tubeless plugs?

In my experience, I haven't gotten as loud of a popping noise with hookless rims (I think the CL50 is hookless).

Depends on what width tire you mounted, they are available in several widths, and how wide it actually measures when mounted on your rims. Your rims have an internal width of 21mm, which means they will probably mount a couple of mm wider than the stated width. I use the silca pressure calculator, and depending on the ride use either the "poor pavement/chipseal" pressure, or halfway between that pressure and the the "worn pavement/ some cracks" pressure.

I'm 195lbs so what's that - about 88-90kg? Reynolds Aero wheels with 5000TL's (28's).
I run roughly 78-80psi rear and 75psi front. Been running at that for the past 2 years now with no issues.

I still carry a spare tube/boot/CO2's as well as a plug kit. Only reason I carry a tube is because I can easily remove the tire and add a tube just as with regular non tubeless tires. If I had a difficult set of wheels/tires where removing the tire was impossible, I would only carry the plug kit.

Thanks for that! Useful calculator- seems that I should run at around 75PSI according to that.

Is this a road bike or Time Trial bike? If the former I would suggest going lower than that. I currently run the last gen of Schwalbe's Pro One in 23 and 25 front and rear, respectively. They measure at a touch over 25mm on the front and dead on 28mm for the rear. They're mounted on Eastons Aero55s which have a 19mm internal width. I'm also currently in your weight class at 63kgs, but when riding a lot I am more around 61kg.

Anyhow....try 75 out, but don't be afraid to run less. I started with 65psi as that is what I ran in my 28 tubulars and started dropping from there. I thought 60 was money, but the extra 5psi drop to 55 just made the bike so much more comfortable.

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My YouTubes

I run 28mm GP5000 at 65-70psi (I am 78kg).

I carry co2, tubeless plugs and a single tube

I'd be battered to death at those pressures.

I'm an heffalump 95kg at present in full winter plumage (!). My tyres measure up at 28mm wide on the road bike (20mm internal width rims).
I'm running 75psi rear, 70psi front.
Any more and I'm getting beaten up by the road.

I know it depends on the road condition- and those here are generally a bit shiiite. But still.

Im looking to convert to tubeless 18 internal width 24mm external? What size rim tape should I get? Will 80mm valves used mostly in mtb work? Or do I have to get valve extenders for deep wheels?

Are your rims tubeless compatible?