My guess is that any lever would feel a little foreign to you given it's your first TT bike. These are a little odd if you're used to the mechanical levers, but they're also not horrible. They're meant to be lever+grip in one, vs with most other levers, they'll fit on the end of the bar, and you'd use handlebar wrap where your hands go. These also add quite a bit of reach to the levers, my guess is 50mm at least, which might be why your hands want to slide back, they're just more comfortable not having to reach as far.

Thanks, Andres. Actually the levers themselves are quite ok in operation. You may be right in that they are on the long side so maybe I tend to slide back to have a better force application point? I also still feel that there may be a slight ergonomic mismatch between the lever itself/the buttons placement and the plastic grip, not sure.

I read one of Dan’s P-series reviews and he was very positive about these levers/grips. If he is reading this, would be interested to get his perspective. Maybe I am just positioning my hands incorrectly.

Dimm

Yes they stick out quite far. I would definitely trim them by the length that they add

I used these for awhile on my bike last year and I would never say they were comfortable. They are however, cheap. Take a look at the prices for shimano or srams hydraulic TT levers and you'll realize why these ones get specced on so many OEM bikes. They worked, but since breaking that bike down I haven't been able to sell the levers + calipers set for $100 total. The hard plastic/rubber combined with a relatively non-ergonomic shape is unfortunate.

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Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
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Hey Dimm,

The main issue with the bike is that your dealer, I’m almost sure, didn’t cut that base bar piece where the levers are put on. That, and because of the fact that they slide over, makes them having a longer reach then they should be.
On every bike we get with these built from Cervelo we cut of at least 2 cm of the grip where they slide over. That brings them closer and give you that more secure feel.

Jeroen

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Owner at TRIPRO, The Netherlands

Hey Jeroen,

Thanks, good catch! Actually I had the base bar cut by 2cm on both sides. Maybe it is not enough and more should be cut. What is the max that can be cut from the Zipp Vuka carbon base bar so that these levers can still be safely installed? Thanks.

Dimm

Hey Dimm,

You can cut as much of as you like until you have 55 mm left. That is the minimum distance required to go into the lever body.

https://trpcycling.com/.../2018/03/HD-T910.pdf

You can also do this yourself. If you carefully cut around the hydraulic hose, which is doable with a little help from an extra set of hands.
That piece that is cut off is most of the time quite easy to cut and slide it off over the hose. And you can slide the lever body back on to the bar without having the need to remove the hose from the brake lever body.

Jeroen

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Owner at TRIPRO, The Netherlands

Thanks, Jeroen. Very helpful. I think cutting more may help, although I am not sure the length is the sole problem here.

Dimm

I just picked up a new Felt IA with these levers. I having the same issues as you. They are too wide and hard plastic. Not comfortable at all. Functionality, the brakes work great and I like have the buttons on the right hand but these things need to go!

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USAT Level II- Ironman U Certified Coach

I actually like them, they feel robust and solid :-)

Jeroen

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Owner at TRIPRO, The Netherlands

How do you grip them?

I was on the trainer today trying different hand positions on these levers and came to the conclusion that sliding my hands back is probably the right way to grip them (whether it was designed this way is a different thing altogether though). If my hand is at the farthest end of the lever body, my fingers are touching the lever where it just exits the lever body and turns back. So applying any force to the lever at that point is very difficult. Also, the lever body is a bit too wide even for my relatively large hands (I am 6’3 plus) at that location (plus a bit slippery). However, if my hand is partially on the base bar and partially on the lever body, the width is appropriate, the grip is more secure and I have access to the lever with my fingers at the right point and can easily reach the Di2 buttons. But there is probably 5-6cm of unused lever body sticking in front of my hand which is a bit bizarre.

So frankly, if I was sure that I would hold on to this P-series for quite some time, I would probably replace these levers. But in my case I think they are what they are, and I am not planning to be on my base bar for extended periods of time anyway.

Dimm

This is probably the best plan...

I wonder if you can also cut the Alu base bar without bleeding?

I find this video helpful to see the parts:

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https://www.strava.com/athletes/13873052

Yes, you can. You need to be carefull but it can be done it just depends a bit on how much you are going to cut and if there is room to have that extra piece of hose inside the bar/frame.

jeroen

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Owner at TRIPRO, The Netherlands

I find these impressively uncomfortable, as well, but it looks like the handles have a couple screws on either end of the plastic handle grip; are they replaceable with softer pads? I'd far prefer this to rewrapping my handlebars with tape.

Is your bike Di2? If you're referring to the inside plastic piece that comes off, for Di2 bikes that's where the buttons go. Non-Di2 bikes just have a plastic cover. I'm part of the club that absolutely hated these brake levers. Because of the shape of the 51 Speedshop bars, they stuck out very far. I replaced them with Dura-Ace levers and have been much happier.

good question: my bike isn't Di2 and I think the brake lever's fine; just that pad isn't comfortable. I was going to tape over 'em, but then I saw those screws and thought I'd ask if we could just replace 'em. honestly I think that'd be a pretty cool alternative to bar taping.

I think this could represent a potential opportunity, too: I bet there're a lot more non-Di2 bikes than there are Di2 and I wonder how many athletes would prefer replacing these pads to retaping their handlebars. Does anyone think more comfortable pads could be made for as much for a pair of these as I would bar tape?

man I tried enduring those damn handles, but they're just unbearable and I haven't been a triathlete long enough to know bike components; could you share which model of Dura Ace handles you got?

Sure thing, the part number from Shimano you need is ST-R9180. Note that you might need new hydraulic brake lines and longer Di2 signal wires as well.