I need to clarify a statement in the tubeless article that's on the front page. Near the end, GK writes that our Hed Jet wheels are not suitable for tubeless. The Plus Jets are ready for tubeless. Yes, the skin on the wheels is thin - we don't make it any heavier than necessary, but a correctly installed tubeless valve will not damage anything. We've tried to crack the skins by overtightening valves, with pliers and they hold up fine.
We have valves in stock, they have a metal flange on rim side, making it impossible to pull them though the valve hole by overtightening. We have four lengths, up to a 100mm that will fit a Jet 9 or Vanquish 8. Threads do not go all the way down the valve, so order the size for your rim depth - that is, don't get the longest one thinking it will fit anything. There may not be enough threading for a shorter rim.
Installation on Jets goes like this:
-tape up your rim. Our included tape works for tubes and tubeless.
-inflate your tire with a tube. The tube will make the tape stick down and seal tightly. You only have to leave the tire inflated with the tube for a couple minutes.
-take the tube out, put the valve in. There's a trapezoidal rubber grommet/sleeve on the valve, the wide side of the grommet points up to the top (air fill end) of the valve, and nests in the drop center section of the rim.
-finger tighten the nut.
-with the butt end of a screwdriver, a sharpie, or similar implement, bear down on the valve from the tire side, as if you are trying to mash it through the rim. You don't need to go red in the face for this part, but do bear down with some weight. While you maintain that pressure, finger tighten the nut. go ahead and make it tight.
-let everything go. The rubber will spring back a little, and will keep tension on the nut, keeping it all tight
It's my experience that with this method you get a secure valve, no skin damage to the wheel, and the valve is still removeable in the field. I can bear down enough with my thumb to make the nut go slack and unscrew it. I don't have especially manly thumbs, but even a tire lever should suffice to depress the rubber, release tension, and unscrew the nut.
Andy Tetmeyer (I work at HED)
We have valves in stock, they have a metal flange on rim side, making it impossible to pull them though the valve hole by overtightening. We have four lengths, up to a 100mm that will fit a Jet 9 or Vanquish 8. Threads do not go all the way down the valve, so order the size for your rim depth - that is, don't get the longest one thinking it will fit anything. There may not be enough threading for a shorter rim.
Installation on Jets goes like this:
-tape up your rim. Our included tape works for tubes and tubeless.
-inflate your tire with a tube. The tube will make the tape stick down and seal tightly. You only have to leave the tire inflated with the tube for a couple minutes.
-take the tube out, put the valve in. There's a trapezoidal rubber grommet/sleeve on the valve, the wide side of the grommet points up to the top (air fill end) of the valve, and nests in the drop center section of the rim.
-finger tighten the nut.
-with the butt end of a screwdriver, a sharpie, or similar implement, bear down on the valve from the tire side, as if you are trying to mash it through the rim. You don't need to go red in the face for this part, but do bear down with some weight. While you maintain that pressure, finger tighten the nut. go ahead and make it tight.
-let everything go. The rubber will spring back a little, and will keep tension on the nut, keeping it all tight
It's my experience that with this method you get a secure valve, no skin damage to the wheel, and the valve is still removeable in the field. I can bear down enough with my thumb to make the nut go slack and unscrew it. I don't have especially manly thumbs, but even a tire lever should suffice to depress the rubber, release tension, and unscrew the nut.
Andy Tetmeyer (I work at HED)