Some of these cleaners can sneak into sealed bearings, so be careful not to get it on hubs, bottom brackets and fancy jockey wheels.

Unless you are riding a lot in rain, snow and/or crud, I would suggest switching to waxing your chain. Then use something like the Squirt or Premier lube. Then you don't have to clean your drivetrain.

By automotive brake cleaner, you probably mean Tetrachloroethylene. Google that and be your own judge of how much you want to use that stuff. The stuff in Clean Streak is a little more tame, but should still be used in a ventilated area.

No matter what you use for degreasing, make sure you are lubing afterwards. I think the directions on Clean Streak tell you to lube after using. (Maybe you're already doing this and i'm inferring too much from your post)

Well you do once in a while, I find. But then the solution is just an ultrasonic cleaner with heat mode, that simply melts off all the old, dirty wax and leaves the chain like-new.

If I remember this correctly - I used brake cleaner in a MEC chain cleaner/brush device and the whole thing broke apart - in seconds!

Depending on the cleaner formula it can be reactive to some types of plastics and possibly rubber.

Beater bike I wouldn't have a problem. Not on the tri bike tho.
I just used some this week to clean chain, but that was off the bike in an margarine container, for the reason above.
I also got myself schooled on chains, splitting links, made a tool for the SRAM power link. All up and running :)

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Because if you get enough on your carbon frame, it will start stripping the paint and sthe epoxy.

On a side note, all for who use simple green to clean their bike it is caustic on aluminum and bare aluminum should not be exposed to it extended periods of time (10min+). Thoroughly rinse your frame/drive train after using simple green. The army learned that the hard way on their aluminum receivers.

As far as I can tell, Clean Streak is the same as auto brake cleaner (I've used both, but only buy the latter now due to price). It takes EVERYTHING off, but as mentioned, it's pretty toxic. I use it very sparingly for anything bike- related and always wear disposable shop gloves. It works well for any of the SRAM cassettes that are a single piece (i.e. Red cassettes, or any of the new machined-out MTB cassettes)... they're REALLY hard to get clean because of so many tiny small spaces to get into.

But I'd never use it on anything that has a bearing nearby (i.e. BB, wheel bearing, headset bearing, etc). It comes out under high pressure and could dry out / ruin a bearing pretty quick.

Just had LBS wax my chain-it's great. Seems easy enough. But do you have a link/suggestion for an ultrasonic cleaner you recommend? TIA

I just use cheap one with heat I got n EBay. A little heat and vibration does the trick to remove/strip a waxed chain. I sometimes have to use a toothbrush on cassettes still.

depends on where its being sprayed, it can get in bearing seals and chew up the lubrication making your bearings wear out faster. Also make sure to lubricate asap.

I just bought more White Lightening but have been using something called "Mud Off" & while both work great, I make sure I rinse the bike afterwards, as directions on Mud Off call for it to NOT be left on the bike or any parts. Then I use the Rock & Roll Gold & I'm back in business.

As for waxing, never did that. Can't speak about automotive cleaner, I just stick with the bike branded cleaners & soap/water. I have found that for some hard to get off grease spots on my white P3 paint, that WD-40 takes it right off. It's already scratched to hell so not too worried about it doing much of anything to the frame, it hasn't damaged the clearcoat at all in years of doing that.

I got this one, which seems to work fine. Fits cassette and chain together.

Brake cleaners will make your chain brittle, so will simple green.
Google search chains and hydrogen enbritlement.

I went through a similar rationalization, finished my bottle of Finish Line Citrus degreaser, which had worked well on the bike and on fishing reels. Used Simple Green while repacking front wheel bearings on the truck, decided to try it on the fishing reels. It dissolved the toothbrush I use to scrub small parts, and left a sticky residue on the parts which had to be rinsed off.
Based on that I ain't using Simple Green on anything except car parts on the bench..
New bottle of Finish Line is $14 and the previous one lasted me two years, think I'll spend the money..

there are various formulae for auto brake cleaners, most of which are frightening. One of the new formulations that doesn't use chlorine or tetrachloroethylene would be best. But it will attack paint, rubber seals, etc. Personally I don't think it's worth it..