Bad ass!! But only if you can do a wheely like Sagan.

Maurice

haha i definitely can't. i'll never blow anyone away with my speed or endurance so might as well do it with the bike! especially with a new baby in the house, i very well may just post up at the Boulder Rapha every weekend and just troll for compliments! haha

It can be done pretty cheap if you go with a local vinyl wrap company that does cars.

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Washed up footy player turned Triathlete.

for anyone still curious on spray.bike, here's some shots of my most recent creation. painted @teichs42 's fuji D6. the frame isn't clear coated yet (the fork is), but pretty stoked with how it came out!

Sweet!
Think I'm going to try a frame shortly. What amount of prep work goes into that.
I had a P3 painted last year and did the prep work myself but it was fairly tedious work.I'm wondering if there's anything different when you're doing it in this way.

it honestly doesn't consist of anything more than cleaning the frame. i have a spare broken frame i'm going to test out stripping the factory paint by sanding and then using one of their primers. i'm a little afraid to do it with carbon on a bike i'll actually ride. but if it goes well with this busted one that would become my new prep. the paint adheres to the factory paint pretty well, but where theres any "raised' sections from the factory paint it comes through which you can't really notice unless looking closely, but is definitely annoying

Looks sick!

I'm looking at painting a road frame I just picked up as a winter project. What do you use for masking? Standard painters tape?

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Strava

When you paint the test frame any chance you'd post pics of your process? I don't think I want to paint my carbon bike but have painted several aluminum bikes. I'm curious how it goes with carbon.

3M auto masking tape. The green one. Its more pliable than normal painters tape which helps a lot. You don't need a lot. Don't pile multiple pieces at the "edge" or it will just lead to paint build up there. One piece is enough. Just really press it down

I won't be painting what I was referring to. I've already done enough painting to know how well this stuff can work. What I'll be doing is trying to strip the factory paint down to the raw carbon. If I can and it goes well then actually I guess I will haha cause I'll try their carbon primer. So yeah! Happy to post pics.

The Fuji above tho is full carbon! The fluoro yellow was a bit tough to do it well directly on the factory paint. So for the top tube I painted it green first cause that just sprayed a lot better. I'm curious if the carbon primer would stick well to the factory paint even tho it says for raw carbon

I sanded my P5 down. It was easy to tell when to stop. I could see the primer. I took all the factory paint off. But I wouldn’t again. Lot more work for no return. I took some naked weights and final weights but not before weights. It’s about 3-6% paint weight I had.

I’m about to do another bike.

Spray.bike is so so. I thought it was cool but some colors sprayed great. Others clumped so bad it ruined the whole job (same temp and humidity- I was specifically tracking). Orange was the worst where I wasn’t even getting a steady stream of paint but had to keep pushing the button to get short bursts (perhaps a defect in that can?) but I don’t see it any better than regular spray paint that’s been properly prepped just like you need to do for spray.bike

Can you elaborate on prepping???
Are you saying I could use a different products or just that the application isn't any better?

Which orange? I've used (I think) meise orange and it worked very well. A buddy had the issue you're describing with the flouro orange and I had similar with the flouro yellow on this one. It eventually started spraying better.

I've never used any other paint but I think spray.bike works super well. To me the prep is really in between the coats. So sanding and polishing. That's where I've seen each bike I've done get better and better from that extra step. Everything got wildly better when I started sanding.

Holy molly! You are dang good at it.

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Stay home, stay healthy.

Awesome I'll pick some of that up when I'm ready to go.

So you're saying you do a light sanding in between each coat of paint?

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Strava

Flouro orange and the red which sprayed just fine. Maybe it’s a flouro thing. I didn’t really like the flouro color anyways. I’d go back with regular orange if I did it again.

Prep just being proper sanding and cleaning before starting paint. I don’t think there is anything particular special about the paint except it sprays more powdery. I’d use it again. I’m ok w the price premium. I’m not ok w the huge shipping cost when I can get paint for no shipping from so many other sources.

The shipping really does sick. I always think it's reasonable priced then find myself annoyed at the final amount when it's ordered.

Yes sand a bit between coats to "flatten" the paint. Something all the pros do. Spray.bike says you can accomplish that by just rubbing with a paper towel and that helps and I still do that, but I find the sanding to just work better and lead to a smoother feel. Especially with the clear coat. I'll spray two clear coat layers then sand then hit with one final light coat to keep it shiny. Then polish with a lint free microfiber cloth and then throw some car polish on it

what grit paper did you use to sand off the factory paint?

60 and 80 to get the bulk off and 400 before paint. Wet sand the 400 and final coats up to 2500

cool, thanks! i use 1000 and 2000 currently but i want to test with something a little lower in hopes of a smoother finish after hearing that Fat Creations uses 600 in the initial stages

You can also get Montana spray paint. It's very durable, comes in an aray of colors and can be found in most art stores. It was originally created for graffiti.

Just finished painting and about to start my clear coats. What grit sandpaper are you using between coats?

I ended up just doing their suggested polish and I'm finding there's a sort of step at the masking line, not a smooth transition. I'm thinking the sanding could have fixed that.

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Strava

I've used 1000 and 2000. Usually 1000 in-between paint coats and 2000 for the final sanding if the clear coat. The build is is tough. The clear will help get rid of it to some extent. I've not had success in straight up sanding it down as the colors have then bled into each other when I've tested it