DarkSpeedWorks wrote:
Signal8 wrote:
There were some gaps along the sides between the box and the side of the top tube. I injected some flex seal rubber and molded it with a plastic knife to fill the gaps.
Well done, a darn good job.
Questions: what kind of 'clear duct tape' did you use, was it gorilla clear tape, or ? Then, how did you 'inject' the flex seal rubber to get it deep and nice and flush in the crevice? What method or tool did you use? Did you lay on the bike on its side when doing each side with the flex seal? After applying the flex seal, how much time do you have typically before it dries fully?
We'll see if I can get some additional photos to show up.
I just used some clear duct tape that I had lying around the garage to act as a barrier between the bento box, flex seal, and the top tube. This clear duct tape played no part in adhering the bento box to the top tube. It was merely a protective barrier. I did neatly trim the duct tape so that it followed the natural lines of the top tube. Once applied, it was pretty undetectable.
I tried to show the location of the duct tape in one of the photos. Once I had the clear tape in place, I started working on adhering the bento box to the top tube (well actually to the clear duct tape). I was working on a 2009 QR CD0.1. The top tube isn't flat like it would be on newer bikes that are designed to accept a hard bento box. The bottom side of the ATTK IC is flat. Because of this, I used some thick (maybe 2 mm) double sided tape that I picked up at a local automotive store. I think it is meant to be used to adhere emblems to vehicles. Anyway, this stuff was thick, flexible, and really sticky. I applied to the double sided tape to the underside of the bento box. I cut some thinner strips of the double sided tape that I applied closer to the outside edges of the underside of the bento box. In other words, because my top tube was round and the bento box was flat, I had to use a couple layers of double sided tape to build up the outer edges of the underside of the bento box's surface.
Then, I pressed the bento box onto the top tube (or rather the clear duct tape I had placed on the top tube). I think I used some masking tape to help press it down into the gooey, thick double sided tape and left it overnight. At this point, the double sided tape bond was good enough that I could lift the bike up by the bento box. I figured it wasn't going to come loose mid-race, but I still had some unsightly gaps between the bottom outside edges of the bento box and my top tube.
This is where the Flex Seal came into play. I used the version that comes in a tube (like a toothpaste tube). I masked off the sides of the bento box. I also masked off portions of the top tube that weren't directly underneath the bento box. I squirted the Flex Seal into the gaps and used a plastic putty knife to kind of carve away any excess flex seal. Basically, I held the knife edge vertical and tried to create a vertical wall of Flex Seal from the outer edge of the bento box down to the top tube. I left that sit to cure overnight before I pulled the masking tape off the sided of the bento and the top tube. I was surprised at the strength of the bond. I don't think Phil Swift himself could tear the box off my top tube. I raced all season and never worried about it falling off. The only thing that is touching the frame is the clear duct tape. Everything else is stuck to that clear duct tape. In theory, I should be able to remove the whole setup by simply pealing off the clear duct tape, however I haven't tried that yet.
This is the beauty of working with an older bike. I really don't care if the bento box ever comes off. It's not like I have any warranty or resale concerns.
To Eroc24's comment about bento box width. I did a little research on the ATTK IC and measured teh width of my top tube before I ordered it. I knew it would be close, but they turned out to be exactly the same width.
Just in case anyone is interested, here's another modification. I followed the instructions in this old ST thread to add a Torhans VR bottle to the triangle.
https://forum.slowtwitch.com/...20vr%20felt#p4153474 
I needed a (hopefully) drag neutral way to store a flat kit on an old bike that has no integrated storage. I used the Felt version of the VR, because the mounting bracket cradles the seat tube of my bike better. Some of the angles didn't match up perfectly, so I heated the mounting bracket and formed it around the seat tube and the lower portion of the down tube. I drilled a hole in the forward portion of the mounting bracket to allow a bolt to fasten it to the lower bottle cage boss on the down tube. I remember also having to heat/dimple the actually bottle to clear the that forward bolt head It was kind of a trial and error thing until everything matched up perfectly.
Someday, I'm sure I'll upgrade to a new integrated everything bike. But for now, I have most of the benefits that all that integration stuff offers.
