My thoughts on it-

105 is fine for your sti and front. I would suggest you might want to think about what kind of gear range you want in the rear, and think about something like XT for it if you're going to run something larger range than 12-27.

Also make sure you get the cross levers! They're awesomely addictive to use, but also super convenient for commuting. Also think about crank options - either a cross specific gearing or a compact in something durable and stiff, perhaps from FSA.

I may be wrong, but I think the 105 sti have the same internals as the Ultegra. Just different paint. I know that the Dura Ace is definitely different on the inside than Ultegra though. Alot more titanium, metal, and bearings in the Dura Ace.

I would at least spend the extra couple bucks to get the Ultegra derailleurs as I think there are actual bearings in the pulleys on Ultegra. I also personally like the Shimano R500 cantilever brakes as opposed to the Avid ones as they seem easier to release the cables on. The new cantilever brakes made now are much easier to adjust the pads on compared to the original cantilevers from the 90's and I would never go back now.

As for cranks, go with what you can find on sale, I guess. They all pretty much close to the same in the foul weather aspect.

i just bought a cross bike with campy. it takes a little getting used to if you've been riding shimano, but i love campy, especially with a double chainring setup. the big advantages in my book are:

• less likelihood of mud getting in the derailleur
• easier to shift multiple cogs when the terrain changes suddenly
• never have chainline issues, since you can microshift the front der.
• all cables are routed along the handlebar, makes for a "cleaner" front end

fwiw, i use veloce components with a centaur rear der. i'd recommend at least centaur components (i couldn't afford 'em, but they're perceptibly better on my friends' bikes).

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http://www.theninjadon.blogspot.com

"The bicycle riders drank much wine, and were burned and browned by the sun. They did not take the race seriously except among themselves." -- Ernest Hemingway, The Sun Also Rises

I'm selling the kit that I intended to use for my cyclocross bike this year. New Campy Veloce 10-speed shifters, rear derailleur (medium cage so you can run a larger cassette), front derailleur, Ultegra 10 speed cassette (11/27 - yes, it works with Campy), Wipperman 10-speed Nickel-plated chain and Truvativ crankset with integrated BB. $400 takes it all. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.

I am just about to build up a Cross bike as well. I am switching over my Ultegra 9speed from my road bike and putting on Ultegra 10 on the road bike. 105 has more plastic bits than the Ultegra. I am also going with the FSA Energy compact crank that I had on my Tri bike and upgrading to the Gossamer megaExo crank. Yes I agree with you in terms of the top brake levers as a must. I am sure that you can get a lot of stuff on Ebay for this project. Lucky for me I get some amazing deals from my LBS's. Have to love cash deals.

I ride a mix of Record/Chorus for CCX.

However, in the past I've used Daytona/Centaur and it works VERY WELL. I race in Oregon where mud is frequent and thick (actually, it comes in many forms, but there's always a lot of gunk). The Centaur holds up well and shifts in the toughest conditions.

I'd buy the Centaur as the best "bang for the buck" for CCX.

Cheers,

Jonathan C. Puskas

www.wenzelcoaching.com

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Raising funds to help wounded veterans and racing RAAM 2013 with http://team4mil.org/
"If you are gonna charge... CHARGE HARD!"

I've been riding/racing a cross bike with Veloce 9spd bike since 2000. Has never failed me components wise (Colorado goathead thorns are another story) until once last month. At our rainy sandy race at the Boulder resevoir this year I had my first case of rear shifting problems. Turns out the last section of cable housing going to the rear der was corroded inside. I had taken the bike to Vecchios in Boulder where Peter Chisolm (sp?, possibly best campy wrench around) said that the ergo shifter internals finally needed some work as well. Replaced spring post and 2 g-springs, parts and labor $75. Keep in mind this bike has been ridden hard for 5 years. In addition to cross races in nasty conditions this is my commuter, pull the burley bike. (I need the low gears when pulling my son up and over Vail pass.)

I just did a local cross race last weekend. Put a set of cross tires on my single speed, flipped the hub over from fixed to freewheel and just had a blast. Some of the hills were a bit tough, I using 39 x 15 gear, but it was a blast.

When I did some of this last year on my hardtail mountain bike, I'd keep dropping the chain off of the front rings. Ended up just using the middle ring a couple of the back gears. I'd recommend good components and keep them serviced. You'd be surprised how much of a beating a bike can take in one race.

I've ridden a couple of season up here in the Northeast (and it can get messy) on 105 with nary a problem. Unless I had money to burn, if I built up another 'cross bike I'd use 105 again.